I need a sub for a 12" JL older w7 red-eye box.

Rob4x20

CarAudio.com Newbie
Apr 21, 2021
1
0
I have that box that i call a red -eye. Built for a JL w7 12" ported but i can't afford a w7 these days,

I'm aware of the fact that different subs are designed for different enclosures but i do not understand how to match a sub's specs to this box.

I have an old w6.v2 in it now but it doesn't go low enough.

I had a sub by Audio Dynamics in this box before and it went much deeper. But it also died after 1.5 years.

I've seen so much Sundown stuff around here (Nor Cal) that it makes me think it might be hype.

That said, I'd like to know if Sundown v the new version w6, or anything else that would fit that box well might be. And I'm not saying either of those subs would necessarily be a good fit either. I don't even know the exact specs of this box.

I dont know shit. That's why I'm asking for ppl who have real knowledge about subs and their best matches with this enclosure would maybe be.

I've stuck (like the cone is extended and seized up like concrete) two subs in a row. If you don't know Audio Dynamics brand (which I'd never heard of three years ago) that sub was huge. Easily twice as heavy as the 12w6v2 I've hit in there now. And it was at 1ohm.

Maybe something will hit even cleaner and lower in this particular exposure though?

The w6v2 in there right now probably only gets maybe 700w at 2 ohm off this amp. It's real dang loud and doesn't need more loud. It is cleaner than the AD sub at the top but it does NOT go down low enough for me after the AD.

I have an old mmats d200hc sub amp that's supposed to be at least 1200w at 1 ohm. maybe 1400w.

I like very good sounding bass but also pretty freaking loud too. I'm not burping, but i do want to feel the 4runner moving as the sub goes low enough that the 4runner is wobbling but you hardly hear a sound.

Maybe that's why i keep fraking up my subs.

I can spend around $800. But wouldn't mind spending half that if there's a good way to solve it for that. I've definitely noticed you get what you pay for up until you aren't getting what you're paying.

I'm really hoping to find which subs match the specs of the box at around 1400w (realistically 1100w) has good sq but built like a tank.

So simple!

Thanks in advance to anyone who read all that and, even more so to anyone with some real legit experience or knowledgeable advice!
 
Last edited:

hispls

CarAudio.com Veteran
5,000+ posts
10+ year member
Sep 10, 2009
12,809
1,214
It would help if you had precise volume and port measurements of the existing box.

That said, JL12W7 likes pretty standard size/tuning boxes so I expect most decent stuff would do OK just plug and play. Have you looked into the Adire Audio lineup? Brahma series is very nice 1200W low distortion woofers.
 

Kickstand

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jan 1, 2021
936
312
I'm going to throw this out there
For $800 you can get a really good sub and have a proper box built for it.
If you can build it yourself then your saving a couple hundred right there
This way the sub and the box match up perfectly and your not having to compromise on either one of them.
You said between 1100 and 1400 watts?
My first choice would have been Soundqubed but there seems to be a shortage right now but here are a couple examples

https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/icon-12-1250w-subwoofer-by-ssa/

https://ficaraudio.com/product/ssdv4-series/

https://www.down4soundshop.com/hannibal-hss-3212-d2-12-subwoofer-1000w-rms/

https://www.americanbassusa.com/xfl-1222.html

The box is the thing that most people without a lot of experience take for granted or under rate
The sub and the box need to made for each other.
It's not like E-harmony where you can find a close match
All the examples I gave you are in and around $300 so that leaves you $500 to have a box built but it shouldn't cost that much.
Your box might have something to do with why you keep blowing subs as well
Does that red eye box port around the sub in the front ?
 

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