I used to have a 94 ES300. The problem with the Lexus is that they are luxoury cars. That seems wrong, but anyways they tried to make the trunk as sound proof as possible. I had some JL subs in my ES300 and when I moved them into my civic (**** sister totaled my lex) I gained about 5 dB!! The best thing would be to remove the back panel where the back speakers are and build a custom MDF panel that will act as a ported box to 2 or 3 12's or 15's. You can cover the MDF panel with vinyl or tweed. The only difference would be that you would have ports where the factory speakers should go. This will eliminate the sound proof trunk wall and give you access to direct sound of the subs.
I have a '95 lexus not a 93' Im sorry for making that mistake
You think $900 is too little? So how much should I spend then?
I want a nice system, but I dont want over do it. A friend of mine dropped $3,000 into his car and he doesnt have a sub in his car. His system is really nice but, I think he over did it.
Why would you want the trunk sound proof for? and what is 5dB and MDF panel? Im sorry I really dont know shit about audio.
You think $900 is too little? So how much should I spend then?
I want a nice system, but I dont want over do it. A friend of mine dropped $3,000 into his car and he doesnt have a sub in his car. His system is really nice but, I think he over did it.
Why would you want the trunk sound proof for? and what is 5dB and MDF panel? Im sorry I really dont know shit about audio.
dude lexus's are a pain to make sound good due to the fact that
01 mentioned. they are luxury cars. they are well sealed from the engine and trunk.
900 will barely get you 2 subs and an amp.
youll need a custom enclosure wires ect installation from a reputable dealer try for 2k I think you should be able to do it for that.
3k bah thats nothing. got a vette in my bay right now doing 5k worth of install only. with equip over 10k!!!!!
laters
01 mentioned. they are luxury cars. they are well sealed from the engine and trunk.
900 will barely get you 2 subs and an amp.
youll need a custom enclosure wires ect installation from a reputable dealer try for 2k I think you should be able to do it for that.
3k bah thats nothing. got a vette in my bay right now doing 5k worth of install only. with equip over 10k!!!!!
laters
What I meant by sound-proof was that Lexus made the back seat wall as sound-proof as possible so that it was a quite interior. They didn't want noise from the trunk entering the inside of the car. 5dB is almost 3 times as loud. Every 3 dB, the sound pressure doubles and every 3 dB the sound is "twice as loud" dB btw means decibles. Some say listening to anything over 100-120 dB can cause hearing loss, so keep that in mind. MDF is medium density fiberboard. It is really strong stuff and can contain the pressure that subwoofers make when they boom. What you need is probably just a loud sub or 2. With all the sound proof material in the back seat wall, you probably won;t get much detail from the sub, so look for a crappy SQ brand, but can get loud like audiobahn, Rockford Fostgate, MTX, JBL, or Pioneer. They aren't much in the sound quality area, but they can make some loud bass. Cheaper too.
- Thread Starter
- #7
()1,
I understand a little bit more now. Thanks! Im wondering what would you get if you had my car? If money isn't a issue. What would it cost?
Thanks,
Wes
I understand a little bit more now. Thanks! Im wondering what would you get if you had my car? If money isn't a issue. What would it cost?
Thanks,
Wes
If money wasn't an issue, I would take out the 2 rear speakers and the back panel behind the back seats. I would install 2 JL 13w7's in a ported box that would be a part of the backseat factory mold. Where the rare speakers where, I would put 2 4 inch wide, 8 inch long ports, or whatever JL recommends for the 13w7. I would make the front of the box where the subs will be mounted 1 and 1/2 inch think MDF. Fireing the subs inverted may make it sound better, but I prefer the normal mount. The box would look like it was placed there by the factory if you looked into the trunk, but inside there would be 2 gigantic ports where the speakers were so that the sub's sound waves can pour into the car. I would cover the box with the factory matched carpet in the trunk, but continue it from the box to the side walls of the trunk, like there was no box to begin with. Underneath all that, I would lay down Dynamat Xtreme everywhere I can fit it to eliminate the awful rattle that my ES300 used to make when I had it. Dynamat will also help trap sound inside, boosting your output and SPL. If you are not too concerned with how it looks, I would also build a wall about 2 inches from the front of the subs made out of 2 inch MDF, but leave about 8 inches of room from the top of the wall to the trunk lid. This will help eliminate almost all cancelation waves, and reinforce the sine wave that sound travels as. If you want this, I will explain it more in detail later about how it works. I'd give them 750-1000 w RMS each. It would be wise to wait until the JL 1000/1 comes out before buying w7's.
Realisticaly speaking, I would buy 3 12w3's (or 3 12w6v2's if you've heard them, I havn't yet, so I can't comment on them at this point) and but them in a sealed or ported box. I know JL makes a powerwedge box for 3 10w3's for $700 retail. It's not listed on their website, but my local car audio has this box. That would work also. Run all 3 subs off of 1 JL 500/1 amp. Make sure to get some dynamat for the trunk lid if nothing else, and a little dynamat license plate kit for 12.95, I got one, it eliminated practically all of my rattle problems in my civic (only have 2 8w3's playing right now, still waiting for the cyclone). This will give you a very good sound system. I don't think you can go wrong with it. Also for an added umph of sound, invest in an epicenter or an AudioControl epic-150. It digitaly samples muisc and on some tones, drops the music an octave and injects it into the signal. Very cool product. One other thing to consider is an equalizer or at least a line driver. The epic-150 I know for sure can cover the line driver part. What a line driver does is boost the voltage of a signal. That way, your amp will be less stressed by recieving more voltage, and the signal will be much cleaner, it will reject any electrical noise that enters the signal from outside sources. Any other questions, just ask.
Realisticaly speaking, I would buy 3 12w3's (or 3 12w6v2's if you've heard them, I havn't yet, so I can't comment on them at this point) and but them in a sealed or ported box. I know JL makes a powerwedge box for 3 10w3's for $700 retail. It's not listed on their website, but my local car audio has this box. That would work also. Run all 3 subs off of 1 JL 500/1 amp. Make sure to get some dynamat for the trunk lid if nothing else, and a little dynamat license plate kit for 12.95, I got one, it eliminated practically all of my rattle problems in my civic (only have 2 8w3's playing right now, still waiting for the cyclone). This will give you a very good sound system. I don't think you can go wrong with it. Also for an added umph of sound, invest in an epicenter or an AudioControl epic-150. It digitaly samples muisc and on some tones, drops the music an octave and injects it into the signal. Very cool product. One other thing to consider is an equalizer or at least a line driver. The epic-150 I know for sure can cover the line driver part. What a line driver does is boost the voltage of a signal. That way, your amp will be less stressed by recieving more voltage, and the signal will be much cleaner, it will reject any electrical noise that enters the signal from outside sources. Any other questions, just ask.
Wes, I'm 18, and although young, have already done 3 different cars worth of installs, and have done one car four different times, and am getting ready to do it all again, cuz I need to do some upgrades to the bottom end. fuly into the car audio. If ur wanting a great sounding system, I recommend infinity speakers all the way around except for your subs. With your subs, I'm going to recommend Image Dynamics, IDQ12's, these are going to run somewhere in the negihborhood of 329, but will give you awesome Decibel (01 sorry, but you spelled it wrong), and frequency response. Your infinity speakers are going to be from 100 to 300 dollars depending on which ones you get, and how much you want to spend on them. Then for an amplifier, if you spend that kind of money on your system, I wouldn't settle for anything less than RF or kicker amp.s, these are considerably more than a lot of other brands, but you get what you pay for in options and performance. It will be well worth your time and money spent if you go ahead and save and by a big name brand such as Image Dynamcis, JL, etc. Hope you got some help from this. E-mail me if you have any more questions at twarford02@hotmail.com
Listen Bro:
It wont take that much money to make your lexus sound great.
You dont have to have 1500 watt JLW7's and 2- 1200 watt class d amps to hump.But you have to be smart.Go to a website
like rockford fosgate.com under RFTECH. Websites like these
have much knowledge and information availible right there.
Look in Ebay or just at clearence stuff at your local car audio shop and select some decent subwoofers on sale for cheap.
Try to get 15s as they will play louder on a given wattage(higher sensitivity) than the same make of 12s.If your unwilling to give up so much space, 12s will do fine as well.On the box of your new subwoofers, it will list thier sealed airspace(or inside on the spec sheet, online,ect.). Go to RFTECH and use the box calculator to figure out the dimentions you can use for the allowable space and shape of your trunk.Go to the hardware store, pick up some srews,wood glue and desired wood to build your box.Using the website constuct a box as shown,
facing your speakers rearward.For materials figure about 50$.
Subwoofers-around 300$.Now go online or shop around for a good quality small class d amp(300-450$)about 300 or so watts.Now pick up a small(25-50watt) 2-channel amp with built
in crossover, some good coaxials for your front stage,and a wiring kit.Figure right around a grand for everything.Now remove your rear deck speakers(if applicable)and as much insulation as possible between the cab and trunk.Make sure you think through how you want your box to look and make it fit tight between those fenderwells and rear deck.Carpet it up good,
mount your amps on the backside of the box,and it will look clean and nice.I had a set up like this in my 98 lincoln mark 8
(alot like a lexus Ls300)for about 1200 bucks I got three new
dvc fosgate 12s,a jbl powervalve 600 a kenwood 2ch. amp,
an external crossover, some nice kenwwood exelon coaxial
mids/highs and everything was new shit,exept my cd player.
All by bargain shopping.Got the wires, took a couple days to plan and build my box run my pre-outs and wires,and it was all good.Anybody could do it with a little patience and time.I didnt
break any spl records but it was a hell of a lot better than stock.
In fact my boy had a 99 lexus suv with 2-1200watt class d's and
juggernaut 15" subs,tv's, all that shit and it was 20grand for his
system,and it was tight as hell,but I didnt have 20 grand for a system to have it installed so I did it myself and it sounded in range of that systems output(134 vs 152db) but was way cleaner and most people thought it sounded better than his.
(exept me im a down south basshead).So yeah you can do it up for about a grand and be happy with the results,without Juggernauts,W7s,5-2000watt class d amps and shit like that.
In other words you"ll be happy with it.(Ignorence is bliss, there''s
nothing like mobb deep at 150+db).
Peace.
It wont take that much money to make your lexus sound great.
You dont have to have 1500 watt JLW7's and 2- 1200 watt class d amps to hump.But you have to be smart.Go to a website
like rockford fosgate.com under RFTECH. Websites like these
have much knowledge and information availible right there.
Look in Ebay or just at clearence stuff at your local car audio shop and select some decent subwoofers on sale for cheap.
Try to get 15s as they will play louder on a given wattage(higher sensitivity) than the same make of 12s.If your unwilling to give up so much space, 12s will do fine as well.On the box of your new subwoofers, it will list thier sealed airspace(or inside on the spec sheet, online,ect.). Go to RFTECH and use the box calculator to figure out the dimentions you can use for the allowable space and shape of your trunk.Go to the hardware store, pick up some srews,wood glue and desired wood to build your box.Using the website constuct a box as shown,
facing your speakers rearward.For materials figure about 50$.
Subwoofers-around 300$.Now go online or shop around for a good quality small class d amp(300-450$)about 300 or so watts.Now pick up a small(25-50watt) 2-channel amp with built
in crossover, some good coaxials for your front stage,and a wiring kit.Figure right around a grand for everything.Now remove your rear deck speakers(if applicable)and as much insulation as possible between the cab and trunk.Make sure you think through how you want your box to look and make it fit tight between those fenderwells and rear deck.Carpet it up good,
mount your amps on the backside of the box,and it will look clean and nice.I had a set up like this in my 98 lincoln mark 8
(alot like a lexus Ls300)for about 1200 bucks I got three new
dvc fosgate 12s,a jbl powervalve 600 a kenwood 2ch. amp,
an external crossover, some nice kenwwood exelon coaxial
mids/highs and everything was new shit,exept my cd player.
All by bargain shopping.Got the wires, took a couple days to plan and build my box run my pre-outs and wires,and it was all good.Anybody could do it with a little patience and time.I didnt
break any spl records but it was a hell of a lot better than stock.
In fact my boy had a 99 lexus suv with 2-1200watt class d's and
juggernaut 15" subs,tv's, all that shit and it was 20grand for his
system,and it was tight as hell,but I didnt have 20 grand for a system to have it installed so I did it myself and it sounded in range of that systems output(134 vs 152db) but was way cleaner and most people thought it sounded better than his.
(exept me im a down south basshead).So yeah you can do it up for about a grand and be happy with the results,without Juggernauts,W7s,5-2000watt class d amps and shit like that.
In other words you"ll be happy with it.(Ignorence is bliss, there''s
nothing like mobb deep at 150+db).
Peace.
Oh by the way,sit that thing on some nice 18" Lexanis, get some
tint, lowering spings,with the money you save(my new system in my supra cost about 12 grand so im still ridin on bobo^s.)
That^ll make you forget about 10db real quik.
tint, lowering spings,with the money you save(my new system in my supra cost about 12 grand so im still ridin on bobo^s.)
That^ll make you forget about 10db real quik.
- Thread Starter
- #12
I found on Ebay.com that you can buy $139 speakers for only $10 and Amps that are 1500watt for like $200. They had a whole JL setup for sell for $800. What should I get now? Now I know where I can get shit cheap. Another question is this stuff easy into install if you dont have a cule on what you are doing. Thats the major down side I see with Ebay, That they dont install everything for you.
Thanks!
Thanks!
- Thread Starter
- #13
This is what im thinking about getting tell me what you think...
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
For the front
JL XR650-CS
The Back
JL XR650-CX
The Subwoofer
JL HO 11 5R-W3
Amps
JL 300/4 for the speakers
JL 500/1 for the Sub
Does anyone think I should give up Lexus CD player? I really dont want to cause it will change the way the car looks. I think having a fancy CD player makes the car look getto. I find it funny how at frist I only wanted to spend $900, and after got off in the topic wanted to blow so much more money. I plain on buying this stuff off Ebay as it comes up.
Everyone thanks your help!
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
For the front
JL XR650-CS
The Back
JL XR650-CX
The Subwoofer
JL HO 11 5R-W3
Amps
JL 300/4 for the speakers
JL 500/1 for the Sub
Does anyone think I should give up Lexus CD player? I really dont want to cause it will change the way the car looks. I think having a fancy CD player makes the car look getto. I find it funny how at frist I only wanted to spend $900, and after got off in the topic wanted to blow so much more money. I plain on buying this stuff off Ebay as it comes up.
Everyone thanks your help!
That setup sound great, but I would go for the HO 212R-W3 instead, but one 15w3 will be plenty loud. You will be very pleased eigther way, I am sure.
- Thread Starter
- #15
Why should I get 2 250watt subs over 1 500watt one?
Im wonding is this stuff easy to install on your own? I want to do it myself for fun, but if its a total ***** I will just pay someone to do it for me.
Thanks!
Im wonding is this stuff easy to install on your own? I want to do it myself for fun, but if its a total ***** I will just pay someone to do it for me.
Thanks!
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