Hyundai Cilantro.. I mean Elantra!

[ThxOne]

At least your door switch is only 11 bux. Mine is like 400 bux even tho the car is 20 years old. I bet yours took all of 20 minutes to install too? Sometimes I wish I didn't drive a Volkswagen.

Matt

 

[ThxOne]

At least your door switch is only 11 bux. Mine is like 400 bux even tho the car is 20 years old. I bet yours took all of 20 minutes to install too? Sometimes I wish I didn't drive a Volkswagen.

Matt

It took about 1.5 minutes to swap out. A single LARGE Phillips head screw and one connection.

 

[mat3833]

It took about 1.5 minutes to swap out. A single LARGE Phillips head screw and one connection.

Oh **** off man! I haven't ordered one for the past 4 years for 2 reasons:

1 - it's ******* 400 bux
2 - I have to disassemble my entire inner door, pull the glass out, remove the latch plate AND outer door handle, and then I can Undo the 3 torx bolts(specialist size obviously) and then unplug the connector with 9 freaking wires. But before I can pull it out I have to Undo a small screw on the side(Phillips, lol) and remove a little arm that actuates the lock "indicator" and connects to the inner door handle.

Damnit, I'm just going to 1.8t swap an accord or something.

Matt

 

[ThxOne]

Oh **** off man! I haven't ordered one for the past 4 years for 2 reasons:

1 - it's ******* 400 bux
2 - I have to disassemble my entire inner door, pull the glass out, remove the latch plate AND outer door handle, and then I can Undo the 3 torx bolts(specialist size obviously) and then unplug the connector with 9 freaking wires. But before I can pull it out I have to Undo a small screw on the side(Phillips, lol) and remove a little arm that actuates the lock "indicator" and connects to the inner door handle.

Damnit, I'm just going to 1.8t swap an accord or something.

Matt

I had to replace one on my G6 GT. Didn't have to remove the glass but I did have to remove the outer door handle. It was not fun.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Mine on the '03 Explorer are relatively easy at least the one was that I did on the driver side. Parts are not too bad overall on this '03 Explorer for the most part.

Now changing out a window motor....UGH What a MAJOR PITA! I still haven't done it on my Drivers side rear because you have to yank out the entire regulator assembly which normally isn't hard. But on these they leave you with no room at all. Even dealerships and local shops refuse to do them unless you are persistent about it and then they all charge 150-200 for labor for it as it takes around 2-2.5 hours usually to do it. My '99 Grand Cherokee took 5 minutes to swap those motors all held in by 3 nuts that bolted to the studs the motor came built with.

 

[ThxOne]

This just makes me so happy to look at. I had to peek inside her too. Nice.... nice.

 

[ThxOne]

3 amplifiers, each getting short runs of CCA 4awg. from Knukonceptz. Got the ferrules and 3:1 heat shrink on.

 

[audiobaun]

3 amplifiers, each getting short runs of CCA 4awg. from Knukonceptz. Got the ferrules and 3:1 heat shrink on.

Those make a clean connection rather than having to fuss with loose strands. Nice choice! I like them myself

 

[ThxOne]

Was bored while out and about so I picked up a little cheap storage unit just for car audio crap.

 

[Ridinhi]

Was bored while out and about so I picked up a little cheap storage unit just for car audio crap.

I need to do something like that myself

 

[ThxOne]

Not that this build isn't going slow enough but it will now go slower. I just accepted a job that will take up a bit more of my time. The good news is, I am now in charge of my own store.

 

[Ridinhi]

Not that this build isn't going slow enough but it will now go slower. I just accepted a job that will take up a bit more of my time. The good news is, I am now in charge of my own store.

Congrats man! And we understand. Heck, that’s the thing about doing builds for yourself, no timeline!

 

[ThxOne]

So I posted a question on a live stream yesterday about my Kenwood eXcelons 5v rca outputs going into the Dayton Audio DSP and was told that I would basically have to back the head unit down to match the input voltage of the Dayton DSP. Basically by half the voltage from 5v to 2.5v I think is what the Dayton says it can handle. It was so much easier with the RF 3Sixty.3... I could run the headunit at full tilt and use the twin knob remote to control both the overall volume and the subwoofer. Sadly, I keep buying car stereo components. I am almost at another full install worth of gear... but no second car.... yet

 

[just call me KeV]

So I posted a question on a live stream yesterday about my Kenwood eXcelons 5v rca outputs going into the Dayton Audio DSP and was told that I would basically have to back the head unit down to match the input voltage of the Dayton DSP. Basically by half the voltage from 5v to 2.5v I think is what the Dayton says it can handle. It was so much easier with the RF 3Sixty.3... I could run the headunit at full tilt and use the twin knob remote to control both the overall volume and the subwoofer. Sadly, I keep buying car stereo components. I am almost at another full install worth of gear... but no second car.... yet

Congrats on the new job/position. Did you say what you wanted your second vehicle to be?

 

[ThxOne]

Congrats on the new job/position. Did you say what you wanted your second vehicle to be?

Thanks Mr. Bear. I always like to have 1 car and 1 truck or SUV. When it comes down to it I think this time it will be a 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ. I have had XJ's and ZJ's and I miss them but this time I want a hair more luxury and more hiding spaces in the cargo area. If I can land a low miles WJ in good condition I will go back to a pair of 12" subs. Beefier than my JBL P1222's. Those subs hit hard but I think I will go a bit more modern. I would love a pair of DD 712 subs. Put my Smart 3 on them and just sit back and enjoy.