Hyundai Cilantro.. I mean Elantra!

thescottishbear

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Jul 24, 2013
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I've got 200+ lbs of sound deadening materials in my car and am still finding buzzes and rattles. It feels like it something your never really done with.
 
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ThxOne

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I've got 200+ lbs of sound deadening materials in my car and am still finding buzzes and rattles. It feels like it something your never really done with.
Tell me about it... I was driving today and started hearing more from the back of the car. I think the speaker wires came loose again. It's frustrating cause it makes bass sound lifeless and weak.
 

thescottishbear

Junior Member
Jul 24, 2013
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I like aluminum tape for any wiring I come across. I know its not a popular opinion but i like to mass load if and where I can as well. Non hardening modeling clay and lead shot works really well.I have around 4 lbs. per door per baffle. It's usually felt washers under upholstery pins and small pieces of butyl rope that do the best with panel buzzes though. You're always striking the best deal between trying to decouple all of the surfaces while maintaing proper panel fitment.
 

ThxOne

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I like aluminum tape for any wiring I come across. I know its not a popular opinion but i like to mass load if and where I can as well. Non hardening modeling clay and lead shot works really well.I have around 4 lbs. per door per baffle. It's usually felt washers under upholstery pins and small pieces of butyl rope that do the best with panel buzzes though. You're always striking the best deal between trying to decouple all of the surfaces while maintaing proper panel fitment.
Here is the wire I am dealing with. I just tied it off again.
 

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thescottishbear

Junior Member
Jul 24, 2013
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That may be a "fold wire and ziptie it to those bars"; sort of situation. Not ideal (moving part for the trunk). You could use some aluminum tape as well. Prep the surface with some isopropyl alcohol and a lint free rag and that tape will stick forever.
 

ThxOne

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That may be a "fold wire and ziptie it to those bars"; sort of situation. Not ideal (moving part for the trunk). You could use some aluminum tape as well. Prep the surface with some isopropyl alcohol and a lint free rag and that tape will stick forever.
Yeah, those bars are the torsion springs for the trunk lid. I got some stuff to wrap around them though.
 

thescottishbear

Junior Member
Jul 24, 2013
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Yeah, those bars are the torsion springs for the trunk lid. I got some stuff to wrap around them though.
Adhesive backed neoprene or ccf works great for that. I used it on the cables for the door release. Noisy little buggers
 

ThxOne

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I am gonna use my Noico Red 150mil stuff. It works pretty good for bouncy metal stuff.
 

ThxOne

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Man these are heavy pods. I am working on them.

 

ThxOne

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Some progress!!!! Once I have the mid aimed in the car I will secure its position with one more screw. Looks good I think!! The passenger side should be easier now that the R&D is out of the way... or is it trial and error?

 

ThxOne

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Looks decent in the car. The A-Pillar is held in by a tab at the bottom and three press in plastic fasteners. I took some fast hard corners and she stayed in place. I am happy.



 

audiobaun

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So far so good. Bass "sound" is improved and there is a lot less vibration from the rear panels.
With those old 6x9s out of there it should be a hell of an improvement to get some bass within that cabin area
 
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audiobaun

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I was gonna mount my 3's and tweets but man I wasn't expecting it to go from cold and rainy to oppressively hot and humid. It already "feels like" 94° and the humidity is 64%.

Its been a HOTT MF here in TX. 107* Heat Index yesterday:eek:
 

audiobaun

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Here is the wire I am dealing with. I just tied it off again.
Either wrap that existing connector in packing foam and tape and Hot Glue it , or Cut it back approx 4 inches and remove the existing connector(save for future reconnect or use exposed wiring) and hot glue the wires or use Silicone be the cheapest way to stop that.
 

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