How to arrange different kind of speakers

[Ajf23]

So I finally got around to ordering 2 vfx15s from skar, 2 6x8 coaxial, 2 3.5 inch tweeters and a 400 watt 4 channel amp all from skar, as well as a 360 amp alternator from Tucson. The 15s will be seeing around 1200 from a taramps 3k each in a custom box tuned to 29 hz. I also have a spare set of 6x8 Rockford fosgates I plan to put in as well. This is all going into a 2003 expedition.
I know that I am going to mount the tweeters in the dashboard, and run them off the amp. What I don’t know, is if I should put the coaxials in the front, and amp them (skar tx68s 50w rms each) or the Rockford fosgates (not sure about model but I know 65w rms)
the only thing I really want coming from the front is ~70 hz where the 15s start to die off, up to about 600, where the tweeters start to pick up.
what would theoretically be the best way to set up all 6 speakers? Other than the tweeters which ones will give me more powerful mids on the amp while maintaining sound quality?

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[SHO'NUFF]

I'd do a bandpass filter on the 6x8's in the doors, the higher frequencies coming from them would pull down/confuse your soundstage.

I'd also sound deaden the front doors, seal as many openings as you can, try to get good midbass down to at least 60 Hz.

 

[Ajf23]

I'd do a bandpass filter on the 6x8's in the doors, the higher frequencies coming from them would pull down/confuse your soundstage.

I'd also sound deaden the front doors, seal as many openings as you can, try to get good midbass down to at least 60 Hz.

Awesome thank you. I can do either a high pass or low pass on my amp, and high pass on my headunit. Hoping that will be sufficient to get rid of the “extra” frequencies.
And by deaden them just spread sound deadener across all of the holes? Or does the whole inside of the door need to be covered? I know from the factory there is some deadener so the only whole is from the speakers, but would it be worth replacing with some cheap kilmat?

 

[SHO'NUFF]

The most important part is getting it to stick. The first layer on clean bare metal is the most important. If the factory deadening looks substantial, I'd leave it, if you have extra deadener and you think it will stick, you can double layer it.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

And by deaden them just spread sound deadener across all of the holes? Or does the whole inside of the door need to be covered?

Simple, cheap, and effective door treatments

www.diymobileaudio.com

This is pretty much the megathread on what people do to prep doors. It is a big topic. Just about anything you do will be an improvement, the closer you can get to turning the inside of the door into a "sealed box" the better, and it is going to be largely a matter of debate where you hit the wall of diminishing returns for putting more money/time/effort into any of this but certainly I think everyone agrees that doing ANYTHING is better than nothing and typically just doing a little bit is going to be a fairly good bang for your buck in performance for cost/effort in but opinions and experience as to when to stop is going to come down to personal preference.

 

[Ajf23]

so covering the entire inside would be “waste of money” but sealing the door with deadener is 100% worth it?
I’ve heard of people doing this but honestly didn’t know so many people swear by it lol. Will hopefully be doing all of this Monday/Tuesday. Out of curiosity I’ll do one side first and see what kind of difference it makes and do a direct comparison. If sealing it makes a big difference then I won’t plaster the entire inside. While we’re on the topic of sound deadener, would it make a big enough difference to deaden the back door?

 

[SHO'NUFF]

so covering the entire inside would be “waste of money” but sealing the door with deadener is 100% worth it?
I’ve heard of people doing this but honestly didn’t know so many people swear by it lol. Will hopefully be doing all of this Monday/Tuesday. Out of curiosity I’ll do one side first and see what kind of difference it makes and do a direct comparison. If sealing it makes a big difference then I won’t plaster the entire inside. While we’re on the topic of sound deadener, would it make a big enough difference to deaden the back door?

For me the most important thing is soundstage, which means pulling the stage up front, crucial to have strong midbass because anything above around 70 Hz is directional. You want directional frequencies in front of you, so getting great midbass out of your door speakers is very important, deadening the doors goes a long way for this.

Sounds get more directional as you increase frequency, so you don't want your high freqs coming out of the door speakers. Your stage is the dash.

I don't like to take doors apart more than I absolutely have to. Interior door panels get a lot of use, less chance of breaking stuff and softening the hardware.

 

[Ajf23]

For me the most important thing is soundstage, which means pulling the stage up front, crucial to have strong midbass because anything above around 70 Hz is directional. You want directional frequencies in front of you, so getting great midbass out of your door speakers is very important, deadening the doors goes a long way for this.

Sounds get more directional as you increase frequency, so you don't want your high freqs coming out of the door speakers. Your stage is the dash.

I don't like to take doors apart more than I absolutely have to. Interior door panels get a lot of use, less chance of breaking stuff and softening the hardware.

I just ordered 72 sqft of deadening, it will be in tomorrow installed when I put in the other amp and door speakers.

Wouldn’t coaxials in the back theoretically ruin the soundstage? Or would it provide almost no difference not on the amp?

 

[Ajf23]

Simple, cheap, and effective door treatments

www.diymobileaudio.com

This is pretty much the megathread on what people do to prep doors. It is a big topic. Just about anything you do will be an improvement, the closer you can get to turning the inside of the door into a "sealed box" the better, and it is going to be largely a matter of debate where you hit the wall of diminishing returns for putting more money/time/effort into any of this but certainly I think everyone agrees that doing ANYTHING is better than nothing and typically just doing a little bit is going to be a fairly good bang for your buck in performance for cost/effort in but opinions and experience as to when to stop is going to come down to personal preference.

I tried to load this thread and it wouldn’t pull up.
If you sound deaden the doors, would it still be worth adding rings to funnel sound into the cab? Or would they be obsolete with the door deadened?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Wouldn’t coaxials in the back theoretically ruin the soundstage?

I think so, but some people claim that with adequate DSP you can make it work somehow. At the end of the day I'm not the one who has to ride around listening to it so you need to make your own call here but it will undeniably add much more complexity and potential sources for trouble.

Google "diyma door treatment" and you should find the link towards the top of the search results "Simple, cheap, and effective....." would be the thread title. It's a big read and so old that a lot of the pictures may be broken but it should give you an idea of everything you could possibly do and a good range of opinions on what is going to be worth your trouble.

 

[SHO'NUFF]

I just ordered 72 sqft of deadening, it will be in tomorrow installed when I put in the other amp and door speakers.

Wouldn’t coaxials in the back theoretically ruin the soundstage? Or would it provide almost no difference not on the amp?

I wouldn't even bother with them. I had a Tahoe, at one point I had the rear doors hooked up to the headunit for passengers, but sitting in the back you couldn't hear them over the front speakers.

 

[SHO'NUFF]

I tried to load this thread and it wouldn’t pull up.
If you sound deaden the doors, would it still be worth adding rings to funnel sound into the cab? Or would they be obsolete with the door deadened?

Rings?

I've had to make them before because the factory speaker mount was plastic, and I've had to make them so the windows would clear the magnets when lowered.

I used my router with a circle cutting jig