How do I wire (4) 6.5's, a sub, and (2) tweeters?

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alexxifo

CarAudio.com Newbie
Hi, I'm about to get a 2013 Mazda3 and I want to replace the (4) 6.5's, and add a sub (probably a 10"), and (2) tweeters. Should I get a 5 channel amp? Can anyone point me to a diagram for this setup? I've been searching and just can't seem to find it. I'd also get a new head unit of course.

Any help is much appreciated.
 
4 channel and mono
front 6.5s and tweeters bonded at a cross over run to the front channels, rear door on the rear channels of amp and mono pushing sub
5channel
front 6.5s and tweeters bonded at a cross over run to the front channels, rear door on the rear channels of amp and channel 5 on sub
6channel and mono
Each tweeter to channel 1&2, front 6.5s 3&4, rear 6.5s 5&6 and mono on a sub

I'd recommend using a 4channel and mono with a set of 6.5 components and then 6.5 coaxial in the real mono and subs are a simple separate system

Could do the same with a 5 channel but 5 channels don't usually put out much power on the sub channel
 
4 channel and mono
front 6.5s and tweeters bonded at a cross over run to the front channels, rear door on the rear channels of amp and mono pushing sub
5channel
front 6.5s and tweeters bonded at a cross over run to the front channels, rear door on the rear channels of amp and channel 5 on sub
6channel and mono
Each tweeter to channel 1&2, front 6.5s 3&4, rear 6.5s 5&6 and mono on a sub

I'd recommend using a 4channel and mono with a set of 6.5 components and then 6.5 coaxial in the real mono and subs are a simple separate system

Could do the same with a 5 channel but 5 channels don't usually put out much power on the sub channel

Bonded? Why not just get a four channel and run the front speakers on channels 1 and 2 and then run the rear speakers off of the headunit. Run the sub off of channels 3 and 4 bridged.
 
Bonded? Why not just get a four channel and run the front speakers on channels 1 and 2 and then run the rear speakers off of the headunit. Run the sub off of channels 3 and 4 bridged.

Well without the crossover box to bond the mid and tweet to one channel he has no way to protect the tweeters and yea you could just run the rears off if headunit power. But I've never be satisfied off of bridged power for a sub.
 
I would run a dedicated 4 ch and a mono amp as well. Components up front and a cheap set of Coax. for the rears for passengers and a decent 600-1200 RMS 10 or 12 with a mono amp. You might take a look at the Apex 5 ch that a member ha mentioned once before that had a decent sub ch. on it. I like running dedicated amplifiers.
 
Here is that 5 ch amp from Apex. I havent personally used one myself. I have and have used an Elemental Designs Nine5, but I doubt you would make room for something like that? Id look at some 4 ch amp and Mono amps from CT Sounds CT series. Seem to be working great for me for the $ and Customer service is excellent with Kurt




Nice little Mild entry level amp packaged deal also
 
Thank you guys so much for the replies. I wanted to see if I could do it with one amp to save as much space as possible but it sounds like it wouldn't be adequate for the sub. I'll check out those links and make a decision. Thanks again.
 
Thank you guys so much for the replies. I wanted to see if I could do it with one amp to save as much space as possible but it sounds like it wouldn't be adequate for the sub. I'll check out those links and make a decision. Thanks again.

Do get 500+ watts on the sub channel the amps are either fairly large or expensive. Its often easier to fit the 4 channel and mono

The sundown salt 1700.5 and incriminator ix 17.5 and JP95 are all good options a used DD D5.1500 would be nice as well. The JP 95 being the cheapest and probably the weakest on the sub channel.

The jp77 looks interesting at 120x6 at 4ohm plus 2000x1 at 1ohm

That looks like a dream amp for 3 way setups or 2way plus rear fill. It is pricey though
 
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alexxifo

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