Headlights dim and car idles at lower RPM after Sub install

Did you do the installation wiring yourself? Is the lower RPM, rough idle, etc. only when the sound system is playing or all the time since the install?
I would check your alt, check your battery.
As was previously stated 120w is nothing, and should not effect your electrical in the least. Even if your Honda has that fuel saver feature...this is 120w we are talking about...unless your alt isn’t running for an hour or two, it should make no difference.
The only thing I can think of, is either a bad battery, or an alt, that isn’t doing its job. But most likely a bad battery. Is your battery the original?

Nop. I had a shop do it for me. When idling its fine, say my car is in neutral. It idles at around 600. When I move it Drive the rpm meter shifts down a little and thats where the car gets shaky/ Vibrates. The battery is original but I can say its old. Maybe that is causing the issue. Can't say for sure.
 
I agree and great advice. He needs to do that so his alternator will maintain a higher operation voltage for optimal performance of the amp, but either the load being put on the alternator is too great for it too handle is the reason with the car is idling down.shutting off. Voltage output will help the amp to operate better, but it won't solve the what seems to be an overload issue. I think whoever did the wiring may have created a problem, the amp may be defective, or the addition of the new audio was the last straw for a weak battery and alternator.

Car doesn't shut off. It only starts shaking or vibrating as if the engine is about to turn off. Yea that could be right. Maybe the new audio triggered something to give signs about Alt or battery.
 
I did run a test with Volt meter though and my battery read 12.26V while the car was off and Alternator was at 14.4V. My battery is old though. Haven't changed since I bought the car. ( 4 years ) If the battery is weak does that effect the system? I have heard the ALT takes control after the car is started
 
I did run a test with Volt meter though and my battery read 12.26V while the car was off and Alternator was at 14.4V. My battery is old though. Haven't changed since I bought the car. ( 4 years ) If the battery is weak does that effect the system? I have heard the ALT takes control after the car is started
The alt does not take control!!! Your battery still powers everything, the alt charges the battery!
If you have a dead battery, your car won’t run worth a **** at idle, if it even runs. When your driving, it runs better, Because your alt is doing its job. But because your battery is dead, your alt is under abnormal strain, trying to keep up.
Change your battery!
 
Thanks. I took my car to a mechanic today to get the alternator tested. They said everything is working fine. It is the subwoofer that is putting a load on the electric system. He suggested to take it to where I installed and have them check the wiring. Also I forgot to mention, there is a POP sound from the subwoofer when I turn the ignition on. Is this normal?
 
120 watts is the equivalent to turning your high beams on. Not much power at all. Most factory electrical systems can support 1000-1200 watts with no issues.

A subwoofer doesn't put a load on an electrical system. The amp does.

What amp are you running? Most quality amps have a turn on delay to rid the turn on pop.


Your battery resting voltage should be over 12.2 volts. I would take it and have it load tested.
 
120 watts is the equivalent to turning your high beams on. Not much power at all. Most factory electrical systems can support 1000-1200 watts with no issues.

A subwoofer doesn't put a load on an electrical system. The amp does.

What amp are you running? Most quality amps have a turn on delay to rid the turn on pop.


Your battery resting voltage should be over 12.2 volts. I would take it and have it load tested.

Ok. I will take it to a battery store and have it tested. I am actually planning to buy a new battery as 4 years is a long time. I wonder how it starts the engine when it has become weak. Any recommendations for a good battery? About the Amp, the subwoofer I purchased has a built in Amp. Have a look

 
I replaced the battery the battery and the headlights still dim. Anyone knows where to properly ground the subwoofer in Honda Civic 2012? The shop I got it installed have mounted the ground wire in the frame under the carpet. Any ideas?
 

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I replaced the battery the battery and the headlights still dim. Anyone knows where to properly ground the subwoofer in Honda Civic 2012? The shop I got it installed have mounted the ground wire in the frame under the carpet. Any ideas?

I have 2014 Corolla and my rear ground is grounded to the frame by a bolt that holds the rear seats to the frame.

Also make sure all paint/dirt/grime is removed from your ground point. You want to see bare metal at your ground point.
 
So my car having stock LEDs are probably why I don't see any light dimming.

Quite likely yes.

Civics like op's have notoriously small alternators, like 70-80a. Combine that with an electronic load detector which is installed in nearly every Honda product since the late 90s and you have an electrical system that creates just enough power to keep the vehicle's systems running at idle, not a fraction of an amp more.
 
two of the first thoughts that go through any seasoned car audio hobbyist's mind concerning a lack in 12vdc power transmission should be;

1: are the terminals properly connected and tightened without galvanic corrosion or a substrate (paint, rust) hindering conductivity through connection points?

and 2: is there an addition of a big 3 upgrade included?
 
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