Having Trouble with Winisd!

[Annihilated]

So! I'm trying to find out what the difference would be if i put my current woofers into a vented box that's properly designed. Right now I have 2 Diamond Audio D312d2.2's in a sealed box. each woofer only has .75 cu ft and they both want 1.0 in a sealed application. (theyre 12" 400w 2.5" vc woofers and 6 years old)
One of the subs at max excursion makes a clapping or rattling noise and it seems they're pushed to their limits or maybe one is even damaged. Either way, here is what im trying to do. I want to learn how to use Winisd to compare sub woofers and enclosures before i buy or build anything but im having trouble. When i put the parameters in according to the guide it autocompletes and looks right but then nothing ever appears on the graph when i try to map it out. ive tried doing it in different orders and letting it autocomplete but i cant get it to work. Attatched is the manual for the subwoofers, if someone could help me out with Winisd that would be great!!


Also side note and overall thought, is it worth moving subwoofers im already bottoming out into a new enclosure or should i bite the bullet and move from the 400w each range to the 600-800w each range?

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[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

If you are bottoming those out in .75 sealed then you are over driving them. What kind of amp do you have and how did you set the gain? The problem you are experiencing is the result of one or both of these: incorrect amp settings and/or damaged equipment.

When you input paramters in to WinIsd you should fill in these as normal: fs, vas, qms, qes, re, xmax and bl. When you enter these numbers it's very importsnt that you have selected the correct unit of measurement as well.

Once your driver information is entered then you have to create a design, pick your box type and input information about the desired box that you want to model. You dont just enter driver info alone and it spits out a graph.

Let the autofill happen for qts, sd, cms and both db spl figures (1w/1m and 2.83v) since these are all calculated based on what you entered from above.

One important bit of information about WinIsd is that it cannot calculate cabin gain aka transfer function. This means that it is not accuate below 50hz (95% of the bass you hear) unless you have a completely open listening environment. For this reason WinIsd is not accurate for car audio and instead Bass Box Pro should be used. I understand that WinIsd is free blah blah blah. You get what you pay for. Bass Box Pro even comes with a highly informative 1 inch thick user manual and they even walk you through step by step from start to finish and even a little guidance on analyzing the different graphs.

 

[Annihilated]

Thank you for your reply, I wasn't aware of the cabin gain difference between the two programs. I'll work on aquiring bassbox pro this week.
So the gain on the amp was set using a multi meter to guesstimate 900w years ago, which is already 100w more than the 2 D3's are rated. I swore they were 450w but apparently after reading the T/S they are only 400w. They're definitely overpowered, its a hifonics BRZ 2416.1d it puts out roughly 1000w rms at 2ohm but I'll get more in depth about the set up in the thread relating to what upgrades to do. This post is more about figuring out my Winisd woes, which you have! I'm going to try the parameters in that order and see if it works. Even if this isnt going to help me understand what sounds are happening in the car, I'm hoping to learn a little more about subwoofers and enclosures as well.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for your reply, I wasnt aware of the cabin gain difference between the two programs. I'll work on aquiring bassbox pro this week.
So the gain on the amp was set using a multimeter to guestimate 900w between the two. They're definitely overpowered, its a hifonics BRZ 2416.1d it puts out roughly 1000w rms at 2ohm. However ill get more in depth about the set up in the thread relating to what upgrades to do. This post is more about figuring out my Winisd woes, which you have!

Here is where to buy it, I would try to find a 10% off coupon code to save a few bucks.

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BassBox 6 Pro Software CD-ROMBassBox Pro proves that a professional box design program can be both easy to use and affordable. With powerful features like a "design wizard", interactive driver parameter verification, external filter modeling, an advanced database with information on thousands of...

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When you buy Bass Box Pro you are buying more than just a modelling program. You are also paying for an established database of hundreds if not thousands of drivers. You are also paying for that awesome user manual I mentioned. BBP has the ability to calculate crossover networks and it can generate a cut sheet for the pieces of wood you need to create a box of given dimensions. There is quite a bit you can do with it. Overall it's worth every penny.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I didn't have any trouble modeling it in winisd. I tried to make a pdf of the undersized sealed vs 2cf ported box plots but apparently that part of the app isn't operational.
Ported will give you a LOT more output between 30 and 50hz -- actually about twice as much (~10dB).

Your box is so small for that sub you're basically turning it into a mid-bass. It rolls off slowly, but starts at over 80 hz. It's down 3db at 50 hz and approaching useless at 40. However, there aren't any spikes or anything to indicate poor SQ. I have to assume you have it gained/boosted to get something out of it at ~40 and the terrible sounds you're getting are actually coming from higher freq material.