Have an amp, need to choose a suitable sub.

moniker

CarAudio.com Newbie
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Hello all, yes this is going to sound very noob.. and I did read the sticky but not sure how else I'd pose this Q!

I posted this in a few other places with no feedback, so really hoping someone here can help!

So I have the Boss PT2200 amp, these are the specs:

2200 W MAX Power 2 Channel
825 W X 2 RMS @ 2 ohm
413 W X 2 RMS @ 4 ohm
1650 W X 1 RMS Bridged @ 4 ohm

I plan on running one sub, bridged.

Narrowed it down between the Rockville K9 10′’, or the K9 12″.  I’d like to power either of these subs somewhere below their claimed RMS capability.

K9 10:

  • Rockville W10K9D4 K9 Series 10" Dual 4-Ohm Car Subwoofer
  • Peak Power Handling: 3200 Watts
  • Program Power Handling: 1600 Watts
CEA Rated RMS Power Handling: 800 Watts

K9 12:

  • Rockville W12K9D2 K9 Series 12" Dual 2-Ohm Car Subwoofer
  • Peak Power Handling: 4000 Watts
  • Program Power Handling: 2000 Watts
  • CEA Rated RMS Power Handling: 1000 Watts
Iv’e been told not to expect anywhere near the claimed RMS output from the amp (1650 bridged), so how much less could it actually be? 1200, 1000, 850?

EDIT: The amp has TWO 25 amp fuses, so tell me (please!) if one of these formulas is more correct than the other:

25amp x 2 = 50 x 14.4v = 720 rms or 25 x 2 = 50 x 10= 500 rms

And what does that mean in the bridged configuration?  Is that formula representing bridging?

Which of these subs do you think might pair best, and how would you configure the sub wiring?

Finally, would this setup warrant upgrading my alternator?  Stock Alt. is 70 amps and the headlights already dim a little bit when the heater fan is on high power.  The only high output alt I've found is 160 amps.  Not really sure how high I'd need to go.

Thank you to any experts who can take the time to weigh in on this!

Product links:

PT2200 - Boss Audio Systems

Rockville W10K9D4 10" 3200w Car Audio Subwoofer Dual 4-Ohm Sub CEA Compliant

Rockville W12K9D2 12" 4000w Car Audio Subwoofer Dual 2-Ohm Sub CEA Compliant

 
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Hey mate, :graduate:

Firstly, I would like to point out that measurements in car are to be taken at 12v hence the 12v negative ground theory.

Regarding your amp, with a 50amp rating, x 12v equals 600watts. Since its a class A/B amp you will be only churning out 300rms of power.( the other 50% of the power turns to heat)

With your Rockville subwoofers,  I suggest you go a single 4 ohm, or dual 2 ohm which would get a 4 ohm load suitable with the amp.

Also go with a ported design box taking the box size factor which would take a lot , if not, all your boot space. :fro: .  Ahhh!! the things we do to get bass and get them girls dancing! :suave:

If you have the amp, use it and you can upgrade later to a more efficient, class D amp mate!

 
Boss amps only do about 10% of their rated power and the K9 subs all blow up because they are epic piles of ****. You are wasting your money with these cheap over rated brands. You are better off saving more money for better equipment that will last.

 
Return that Boss amp and get your $$ back. We can help ya find a MUCH better amp for the $$. Boss is bottom of the barrel garbage. You can get a Soundqubed 850.1 sub amp for about 100 bucks and it'll be 1000x better then that Boss amp you bought.

As for your electrical, do the big 3 and def a bigger alt will help out in your situation. 70 amps is pretty low. You must own a 4 banger little car.

 
if you trying to go cheap with sub get a Dayton reference 10", find a local box builder if you cant build one yourself off specs you can pay someone to model and design a box with a cut sheet, as far as amp almost anything would be better then that boss.

Edit: actually the ultimax is on sale cheaper then the reference which imo is a better sub. its actually kind of a steal right not maybe i'll get one...hmmmm

 
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Thanks for the input peoples!  Definitely getting the message, and understanding that the Boss is garbage.  Store will only do credit, and they sell mostly household brands.. So going to put that towards my mids.  

My goal was to put something together for around $300 that would thump with at least 800rms.  I researched the issues with the K9 subs, and figured they'd work alright if I kept it under their stated rms handling capability (k9 10 claims 800- give it 600, k9 12 says 1000, give it 800).  Edit:  The last straw (and k9 review) for me;  now lumping rockville in with boss:  





@Boomin_tahoe  Great idea.  I talked with Soundqubed for about 10 minutes today.. They went into so much detail about the amps and helped me get a better technical grasp on things.  Super helpful, very willing to talk about everything electrical, and the amp dyno's as the specs read- 900@ 1ohm@14.4v.  Currently in the 12v range, so i'll get less, but the big 3 & H/O Alt. + battery & isolator (maybe) is next.  Only thing I don't like about the isolator is the V loss.. Will have to research if there's a way to avoid that.

Also interested in this Skar DDX 12 dual 2  https://www.skaraudio.com/products/ddx-12-inch-car-subwoofer  

RE small 4 cyl car:  It's a 95 Toyota Previa 2.4 4cyl, supercharged, awd, power everything including a rear heater/ac blower (So why did they put a 70amp alternator in it?? Of course the headlights dim with the heater on!)  I'll probably build or find a ported box on the high end of subs CFt range since I have so much open space.  Really leaning towards that Skar sub with the soundQ' amp.  If anyone thinks that is a bad idea, do feel free to share why!

Y'all are rad.  Thanks again.

 
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Skar subs are absolute garbage and the owner of the company is a shady rat bastard. Anything but Skar.
I'm willing to hear you out on that... What in particular leads you to make such a statement?  I'm going with some kind of budget sub, and so far iv'e heard good stories of this Skar model lasting quite a long time in daily drivers with high power.  Unlike the rockville subs.  Any power-hungry dvc 2ohm 12'' you would recommend under $200?

 
I'm willing to hear you out on that... What in particular leads you to make such a statement?  I'm going with some kind of budget sub, and so far iv'e heard good stories of this Skar model lasting quite a long time in daily drivers with high power.  Unlike the rockville subs.  Any power-hungry dvc 2ohm 12'' you would recommend under $200?
Do a simple search on here, there is plenty of info to back it up. I've been a member on here for 10 years, I've seen all the Skar ******** unfold. There are certain vendors on here that won't sell Skar because of the owner and the way the company is run. 

 
Okay.. will take your word for it.  Read a couple of complaints of warranty not being honored............Frickn heck man. Made my decision-Getting a sundown SA12 D2 750rms, going to run it hard- full power (after it's broken in) in the appropriate ported box tuned to 35hz.  I just broke my shoulder, so the install is on hold.  Faack.  So much conflicting info in regards to product integrity makes decision making tough!

So this $300 bass upgrade is turning into some real ****...  What it's looking like now:

The boss amp I can't return.....110

Sundown sa12.....200

Soundqubed 850 amp.....100

Appropriate sized, tuned box.....200?

Big 3 upgrade materials including fuses/box.....100?

Amp install materials......40?

Optima Yellow top.....250

H/O Alt.....300

So that 300 project is looking more like 1250+ tax.. What the fack did I get myself into?!  You people are crazy!

 
Welcome to car audio lol. With that amp a Sundown E series would be fine rather than the SA. And you wouldn't need a HO alt, just upgrade the main batt with a big AGM. 
You wouldn't think I need to upgrade, but my 24 year old van has a 70amp alt, and the headlights lose maybe 30% brightness just by running the heater blower.  idk maybe the vehicle will implode if the heater goes on, windows go up and the brights are on all at the same time. The wiring is stock, never facked with, so nothing hokey going on.  I think Toyota just completely failed on the charging system for this rig..  What is a big AGM  :confused:  

 
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You wouldn't think I need to upgrade, but my 24 year old van has a 70amp alt, and the headlights lose maybe 30% brightness just by running the heater blower.  idk maybe the vehicle will implode if the heater goes on, windows go up and the brights are on all at the same time. The wiring is stock, never facked with, so nothing hokey going on.  What is a big AGM  :confused:
It would be damn near impossible to even find a HO alt for that vehicle, upgrading the main battery to a group 31 AGM or upgrading the main as large of an AGM as you can get and adding a 2nd AGM in the back along with big 3 upgrade is all the electrical you need for what you are looking to run.

By big AGM I mean something like a Deka 8a31 or XS D3100 or Duracell Platinum group 31. 

 
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