First ever install finished kinda 13.0v's

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danielbea122

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Looks like crap I know but I just wanted to get everything hooked up to see if I will need the HO alt

The little SQ voltage meter was staying at 13.3 - 13.5 with a/c and headlights on idling
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Guess I'm buying an alternator
 
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Update after realizing the kinetik brand battery terminals do not tighten well, I had to replace them with marine terminals. Problem is that after getting a good connection my voltage dropped to 12.9-13.0 idling.

Still have to do the big 3 in the morning after car cools down completely but probably just going to order the alternator.
 
Update after realizing the kinetik brand battery terminals do not tighten well, I had to replace them with marine terminals. Problem is that after getting a good connection my voltage dropped to 12.9-13.0 idling.

Still have to do the big 3 in the morning after car cools down completely but probably just going to order the alternator.
13v is totally fine. You have a 2nd battery and you aren't even using it until you drop below 13v. If you never plan on going above this power level, 12v+ is a-ok and spending money on an alt is not worth it. Just beat on it and if the alt dies, then replace it. A single bank of caps would do more for your voltage than an alternator (for the price).

Good job hooking the voltmeter up to the amp input terminals. Make sure you calibrate it with a DMM if it has a calibration potentiometer
 
13v is totally fine. You have a 2nd battery and you aren't even using it until you drop below 13v. If you never plan on going above this power level, 12v+ is a-ok and spending money on an alt is not worth it. Just beat on it and if the alt dies, then replace it. A single bank of caps would do more for your voltage than an alternator (for the price).

Good job hooking the voltmeter up to the amp input terminals. Make sure you calibrate it with a DMM if it has a calibration potentiometer

Amp says it takes 14.4v for 2200w rms

Right now it's barely pushing the speakers. My single sa12 was way louder than these 2 American bass xfl 12s

Like I said just gonna buy the alternator (probably should have purchased it first)but first gotta do the big 3 to see

If that doesn't work then these soundcubed amps **** but I guessing it needs 14v
 
Amp says it takes 14.4v for 2200w rms

Right now it's barely pushing the speakers. My single sa12 was way louder than these 2 American bass xfl 12s

Like I said just gonna buy the alternator (probably should have purchased it first)but first gotta do the big 3 to see

If that doesn't work then these soundcubed amps **** but I guessing it needs 14v
It's not loud because you're barely getting 1kw due to rise. If you want it to be louder you need to get something like the Taramps MD5k. Your box may also be the problem, on top of the trunk. You won't notice much of a difference in loudness with an alternator. That's just not how it works.

I'd sell the amp and battery, get a Taramps MD5k, and a bank or two of caps, if you want it to be audibly louder.

If you can wire to .5, get a bass 3k or bass 5k
 
It's not loud because you're barely getting 1kw due to rise. If you want it to be louder you need to get something like the Taramps MD5k. Your box may also be the problem, on top of the trunk. You won't notice much of a difference in loudness with an alternator. That's just not how it works.

I'd sell the amp and battery, get a Taramps MD5k, and a bank or two of caps, if you want it to be audibly louder.

If you can wire to .5, get a bass 3k or bass 5k

Hmm in that case then I might buy another one of these amps for each speaker and get the alternator

These are dvc 4 ohm so I can wire to 2 ohms each I believe
 
Hmm in that case then I might buy another one of these amps for each speaker and get the alternator
You can do that too. You just won't be getting much power out of that amp after rise. Changing the orientation of your box in your trunk is another think you need to try. Or is it a suv, can't tell

XFL12's have a 3 inch coil afaik. You need a solid 1.5kw per sub to get their peak output

Err are those HD's not xfl?
 
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You can do that too. You just won't be getting much power out of that amp after rise. Changing the orientation of your box in your trunk is another think you need to try. Or is it a suv, can't tell

XFL12's have a 3 inch coil afaik. You need a solid 1.5kw per sub to get their peak output

It's a Toyota Corolla lol can't really move the box much. I can face the speaker towards me.

Probably should mention the speakers are brand new so after a little break in and flipping the box around I'll start giving it some gain. See how it sounds.

I gave them about 20% gain didn't wanna go to hard.

If 13v is fine I'll just watch it and leave it alone for now. Going to start looking for a bigger amp that won't need to be pushed to the max all the time.
 
It's a Toyota Corolla lol can't really move the box much. I can face the speaker towards me.

Probably should mention the speakers are brand new so after a little break in and flipping the box around I'll start giving it some gain. See how it sounds.

I gave them about 20% gain didn't wanna go to hard.

If 13v is fine I'll just watch it and leave it alone for now. Going to start looking for a bigger amp that won't need to be pushed to the max all the time.
Like I said, you aren't touching the batteries until you hit 13v, even then you're just touching surface charge. If you drop below 12v at idle then you need to start looking into more ugprades. A single bank of caps is around $200 and would keep you in the 14s on that amp imo.
 
Like I said, you aren't touching the batteries until you hit 13v, even then you're just touching surface charge. If you drop below 12v at idle then you need to start looking into more ugprades. A single bank of caps is around $200 and would keep you in the 14s on that amp imo.

Cool. That's something new to research.

Would a third battery basically do the same thing? I can get used Northstar batteries for $75 with 6month guarantee.

Not sure exactly how caps work but I thought they were there to kick in when the voltage drops too low which protects the equipment.
 
Cool. That's something new to research.

Would a third battery basically do the same thing? I can get used Northstar batteries for $75 with 6month guarantee.

Not sure exactly how caps work but I thought they were there to kick in when the voltage drops too low which protects the equipment.
You'll get pretty much the same voltage drop with a third battery. It'll just hold it in the 12's better.

Caps aren't there to protect anything. They're basically a buffer for big spikes in current draw.
 
You'll get pretty much the same voltage drop with a third battery. It'll just hold it in the 12's better.

Caps aren't there to protect anything. They're basically a buffer for big spikes in current draw.

Finished big 3 and now it's staying 13.5v and thumpin without any fluctuations in the voltage

Cleaned up some of the ground connections as well

Thx for the help
 
They are very good amps. I had two of them strapped at .25 each years ago. Box rise plays a big role in how much power you are actually going to see. If you aren't dropping below 13 volts I wouldn't bother with an alternator. Buying another 2200 and running them both at 2 ohms would not be worth it. I would just get a Taramps MD8k at that point.
 
They are very good amps. I had two of them strapped at .25 each years ago. Box rise plays a big role in how much power you are actually going to see. If you aren't dropping below 13 volts I wouldn't bother with an alternator. Buying another 2200 and running them both at 2 ohms would not be worth it. I would just get a Taramps MD8k at that point.

True but it's fine now. Im just going to keep an eye on the voltage.

It's staying at 13.5v with high beams on, a/c and 20% gain. Volume knob at about 60%
 
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