Do Equalizers help? Are they worth it?

this x2. Really it's not that hard to get tones that match your EQ bands and simply listen for where you major peaks are. Cars are bad acoustic environments, you'll hear the bad ones when you hit them. If your not 100% sure loud it should be, just realize every tone gets a little louder up until 4k or so to most people. If you need a reference, even a cheap set of headphones (like the 10 dollar ones) are still a decent reference point as they'll be ALOT closer to flat than any basic install without EQ.

 
Try to think of an EQ as simplicity. You and I both have identical systems tuned precisely the same. My car has sparce interior with plastic being the major surface area. Yours is a luxury car with every surface well insulated. My car will have a harsh resonant sound. Yours will be subtle and warm. With an EQ each car can be tailored to the other's sound. And more importantly the ballance of the two.

 
You'd be surprised how much smoother stuff can sound if you just spend 5 minutes with the Focal Tools disc and go through the frequencies, cutting the stuff that's too harsh. It's amazing how easy it is compared to just using your ear and trying to cut where you think you need to(this does take a long time). I literally spent hours trying to get Robert Plant and Rebbecca Pigeon's voice to sound right and not too harsh, and I just couldn't. Popped in the Tools disc and started at 63hz and spent about a second on each track, listening for continuity from one to the next, and bam, found exactly what I needed to cut(6 different frequencies in all, but only 2 where I thought I needed it).
Very, very easy to do if you have the right tools.
Wanted to get this on the seocnd page. If you're trying to EQ, use the Focal tools disc(I know diymobileaudio.com has a thread about the focal discs) and you'll have everything you need to get the sound you want, as far as reference materials go. It helped me more than I thought possible, and finally allowed me to stop tinkering with my EQ.

 
guys i need opinions :

I'm debating replacing my CDA-7998 with a new Kenwood DDX-896 double din I have a Audio Control DQS that I'm using with the system and not sure i would need it with the DDX-896 , it has a 13 ban EQ

More about my system:

2007 FJ Cruiser

Alpine CDA-7998

Audio Control DQS

JL amps 300/4 500/1

MTX 8500 Sledgehammer Sub-woofer 12"

Focal 6-1/12 165-KR component speakers

specs for the DDX-896

http://www.kenwood.ca/Car_Entertainment/eXcelon/Multimedia_Receivers/DDX896

 
I have the Eclipse CD8455 HU (10 band parametric EQ) as well as the QDS, I still prefer the DQS in conjunction w/the HU. There's way more flexibility in the DQS as far as EQing goes. 2 band parametric per ch, plus 30 bands graphic per ch.

It works perfect for me, but I run a 3-way passively active front end.

 
I had an Eclipse 21010 EQ/line driver running my subwoofer amps, the only reason why I had it is because it has built-in parametric EQ for bass and I can dial in the center frequency, Q and volume independently from my main speakers.

However something happened to it a few months ago and it started throwing my sub amps into protect, I think it was sending DC spikes into my amps' preamp input so I threw it away. Most decent headunits have good preamp output voltage and parametric EQ built-in already so I would skip it to simplify the signal chain.

 
ok guys thats 1 yes and 1 no. Wingman0121 the DQS has 7V preouts though,but my thinking is with my system being just 1 pair of component speakers and a single sub i really don't need it. I'm getting the Kenwood DDX-896(which has 5V preouts) installed early next week. i know i can sell the DQS very easily.BTW right now the DQS isn't set correctly you really need a RTA to do it right,maybe if i had it set right i would lean towards keeping it. I'm just not sure the more opinions the better.

 
ok guys thats 1 yes and 1 no. Wingman0121 the DQS has 7V preouts though,but my thinking is with my system being just 1 pair of component speakers and a single sub i really don't need it. I'm getting the Kenwood DDX-896(which has 5V preouts) installed early next week. i know i can sell the DQS very easily.BTW right now the DQS isn't set correctly you really need a RTA to do it right,maybe if i had it set right i would lean towards keeping it. I'm just not sure the more opinions the better.
Remember too that you can get line drivers to do 8V+ out but you need to make sure the input pots on your amp can even handle it.

 
I had an Eclipse 21010 EQ/line driver running my subwoofer amps, the only reason why I had it is because it has built-in parametric EQ for bass and I can dial in the center frequency, Q and volume independently from my main speakers.
However something happened to it a few months ago and it started throwing my sub amps into protect, I think it was sending DC spikes into my amps' preamp input so I threw it away. Most decent headunits have good preamp output voltage and parametric EQ built-in already so I would skip it to simplify the signal chain.
Case in point. Also the decks that have preamps built in are not the same as like a Zapco or PPI PAR 245 etc. They do not adjust the Q as correctly or detailed. If you have a eq/preamp the STN (like 105db+) is always higher and better as well which sounds better than one built in a deck. Read the specs and see yourself. There are reasons that even decks that cost over $800.00 dont have them in them too. It isnt because its a crappy deck it is because the makers know there is better for those who want a complete Q install.

 
would a Phoenix Gold EQ215X be a good EQ?

15 Independtly Adjustable, Sliding Style, High Q Frequency Controls

for each Channel with 2/3 Octave Spacing

Seperate Left and Right Thru Output Jacks

24kt Gold Plated Input and Output Jacks

Seperate Left and Right Input Sensitivity Controls

Seperate Left and Right Output Level Controls

Seperate Left and Right Input Clipping LED Indicators

Seperate Left and Right Tri-Level Output Level LED Indicators

Pulse Width Modulated Power Supply

Power-On LED Indicator

EQ Defeat Switch

Quick Disconnect Power Plug

3 Second Delayed Remote Turn-On Output

24kt Gold Plated, Two Layer, Copper G10 Glass-Epoxy Printed Circuit Board

Audiophile Grade 1% Metal Film Resistors

Precision Laser Cut 16 Gauge White Powder Coated Steel Chassis

Specifications

Frequency Response: 10Hz to 30kHz

S/N Ratio: 105dB

T.H.D.: 0.02%

Cut/Boost: +/- 12dB

Thru Output Response: 20Hz to 20kHz

Input Sensitivity: -12dB to +20dB

Input Signal Range: .8 Volts to 32 Volts

Output Level Range: -20dB to 0dB

Dimensions:

Chasis 11.25"L x 6.9"W x 1.6"H

Overall 11.25"L x 7.9"W x 1.8"H

OR

what about a Precision Power DEQ230??

 
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