CCA vs OFC for a Small 4-Channel Amp Instal

[AndrewMelon2121]

My friend and I have a small project for his car that involves installing the Kenwood X3001-4 amplifier to power a pair of Alpine R Series 6.5" 2-way coaxial speakers. We’ve already bought the Aerpro BSX208 8GA amp wiring kit specifically for this install.

The planned set up:
Kenwood X3001-4 Compact D-Class 4 Channel Amplifier
Alpine R Series 6.5" 2-Way Coaxial Speakers 300W
Aerpro Bassix 8GA 2 Channel Amp Install Kit - BSX208


My only concern is that after seeing so much discussion online about CCA power cable compared with OFC, I’m starting to hesitate about using the kit.

He isn't planning on upgrading the system after this project, so would the 8GA CCA cable in this kit be perfectly fine for this amplifier, or would it be worth replacing it with an OFC kit instead?

Just wondering whether there would actually be any meaningful benefit to going OFC for a setup like this, or if the CCA kit is adequate for the power the amp will be drawing. Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks.

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

It will likely be adequate.

The equivalent OFC kit would only need to be 10-gauge, and I'd opt for it if given that option.

Copper is roughly 40% less resistant, a plus in any application where you're passing current. I think that kit is okay up to around 6-8 ft; anything longer, you're pushing it.

If you already have the cable and it's the length that it will effectively provide the needed current to run the amp, you should be fine.

The resistance being higher means you may experience warmer wire at peak output, but at 250-300 watts, full bore, you'll be okay.

 

[AndrewMelon2121]

It will likely be adequate.

The equivalent OFC kit would only need to be 10-gauge, and I'd opt for it if given that option.

Copper is roughly 40% less resistant, a plus in any application where you're passing current. I think that kit is okay up to around 6-8 ft; anything longer, you're pushing it.

If you already have the cable and it's the length that it will effectively provide the needed current to run the amp, you should be fine.

The resistance being higher means you may experience warmer wire at peak output, but at 250-300 watts, full bore, you'll be okay.

Hello doxquzme, thank you for letting me know. Are there any big brand OFC kits you would recommend for this project? I'm from Australia so any common brands would be much appreciated, thanks.

 

[AndrewMelon2121]

It will likely be adequate.

The equivalent OFC kit would only need to be 10-gauge, and I'd opt for it if given that option.

Copper is roughly 40% less resistant, a plus in any application where you're passing current. I think that kit is okay up to around 6-8 ft; anything longer, you're pushing it.

If you already have the cable and it's the length that it will effectively provide the needed current to run the amp, you should be fine.

The resistance being higher means you may experience warmer wire at peak output, but at 250-300 watts, full bore, you'll be okay.

Also would 8AWG OFC wire be alright, 10AWG OFC isn't that common by the looks of things. Thanks.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The smaller the gauge, the thicker the wire.

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[AndrewMelon2121]

The smaller the gauge, the thicker the wire.

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Thanks for the suggested amp kit, I appreciate it

 

[AndrewMelon2121]

The smaller the gauge, the thicker the wire.

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This might be a dumb question but with that particular amp kit would i need to swap out the main fuze? The kenwood amp manual says for the main fuze to be around 40A so idk what to do.

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

This might be a dumb question but with that particular amp kit would i need to swap out the main fuze? The kenwood amp manual says for the main fuze to be around 40A so idk what to do.

For 8 ga copper wire, 40 amps is appropriate. With aluminum wire (10 gage equivalent) it'd be 30 amps. I'd definitely go with copper, doesn't need to be oxygen free.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

This might be a dumb question but with that particular amp kit would i need to swap out the main fuze? The kenwood amp manual says for the main fuze to be around 40A so idk what to do.

Never change the amperage of the fuses supplied by the manufacturer.

That amplifier uses 2 x 20-amp fuses; don't use anything else.

If you're fusing it inline (within 18" of the amp) on the input power wire (unnecessary), then you would use a single 40A fuse.

If you were fusing near the battery, that's a fuse to prevent fires from wire that is overheating or that arcs due to a poor installation, and that fuse (necessary) is calculated based on the wires capbality but not to exceed by much, the total constant amperage draw on the wire from all the amps connected.

Since you only have the one, I would fuse the power wire with a 50-60 amp fuse or even easier, a quallity 12v breaker that allows you to disengage the amp should you want to work on, or replace items.

If you're inclined (as I am) to use a breaker, do not buy the cheapo Chinese clones; they are, by and large, junk.

Fortunately, you're able to get a fairly high-quality breaker made by Gloso, which is probably the only budget brand I'd consider.

GLOSO E93 50A Circuit Breaker Waterproof IP67 Extended Surface Mount 3/8" Diagonal Stud for Marine RV and Truck Applications 12V-48V DC Protection (50A) : Amazon.com.au: Automotive

GLOSO E93 50A Circuit Breaker Waterproof IP67 Extended Surface Mount 3/8" Diagonal Stud for Marine RV and Truck Applications 12V-48V DC Protection (50A) : Amazon.com.au: Automotive

www.amazon.com.au

This (or a 50A fuse) needs to be installed within 18" of the positive battery connection.

As for OFC, my preference is that you should get OFC.

While marginal, "dirty" copper has more resistance than OFC copper, and, for the same reasons you don't want to use CCA, dirty copper is more likely to oxidise/corrode than OFC copper and isn't all that less expensive than its dirty sibling.

 

[AndrewMelon2121]

Thanks so much for all the advice. My plan is to grab the Kicker V Series 8AWG 2CH Value Amp Kit, since I can get it for half price locally. From what I understand, I can just use the 60A main fuse that comes with the kit and won’t need to swap it out then everything should be all good.