Big 3 and a Mechman 240 HO Alt

[momeigs]

Hey guys!

Just got done cleaning up my big 3 connections.

Thought by doing this I would increase my voltage a little bit but that’s not the case. I idle around 14.3 right now. I’m running a 1500 amp (subs) and a 1000 amp (mids and highs). When i’m at full volume and knob turned half way and the lowest i’ve seen is an 11.9. I’m scared to go more on the knob for fear i’ll drop into protect mode territory. My ride is a 2001 V6 Honda Accord (known for the ELD bs). My electrical setup is a Mechman HO 240 alt and Mechman 1/0 OFC cable. I’ve also grounded my alternator to my battery negative which i’ve heard mixed things about doing that. Anyways, any conversation would be much appreciated and i’ve attached pics too. Thanks peeps!

Click to read more...

 

[momeigs]

Hey guys!

Just got done cleaning up my big 3 connections.

Thought by doing this I would increase my voltage a little bit but that’s not the case. I idle around 14.3 right now. I’m running a 1500 amp (subs) and a 1000 amp (mids and highs). When i’m at full volume and knob turned half way and the lowest i’ve seen is an 11.9. I’m scared to go more on the knob for fear i’ll drop into protect mode territory. My ride is a 2001 V6 Honda Accord (known for the ELD bs). My electrical setup is a Mechman HO 240 alt and Mechman 1/0 OFC cable. I’ve also grounded my alternator to my battery negative which i’ve heard mixed things about doing that. Anyways, any conversation would be much appreciated and i’ve attached pics too. Thanks peeps!

(Stock battery too)

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

"Hold up on that carwash gennamen" "Rest yourselves"

Get rid of those terminals and get a set of exactly these terminals. ZINC Terminal or "Marine" Terminals.
As I was reading your drops down to 11.9v I was reminded of my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee which has a BIG 4 and higher output alternator. It too would drop down into the 11's of volts... Until I finally got these terminals. Stack all your connections on that stud and wrench that wing nut down with vice grips until it is so tight it becomes one connection. You can put some of those awesome copper connections on your OEM cables too and stack them babies right on top. My voltage drops for the most part went away... still dropped but only into the low 13's. Worth it in my opinion at a minimum.

 

[momeigs]

"Hold up on that carwash gennamen" "Rest yourselves"

Get rid of those terminals and get a set of exactly these terminals. ZINC Terminal or "Marine" Terminals.
As I was reading your drops down to 11.9v I was reminded of my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee which has a BIG 4 and higher output alternator. It too would drop down into the 11's of volts... Until I finally got these terminals. Stack all your connections on that stud and wrench that wing nut down with vice grips until it is so tight it becomes one connection. You can put some of those awesome copper connections on your OEM cables too and stack them babies right on top. My voltage drops for the most part went away... still dropped but only into the low 13's. Worth it in my opinion at a minimum.

Awesome! Thanks for the help man!

 

[momeigs]

Awesome! Thanks for the help man!

Just wanted to give you an update as to how it went. These terminals saved my ass man! Lowest voltage im seeing now is like 12.4 and that’s a 3/4 bass knob turned up. Thanks man! @ThxOne

 

[sicone22]

Just wanted to give you an update as to how it went. These terminals saved my ass man! Lowest voltage im seeing now is like 12.4 and that’s a 3/4 bass knob turned up. Thanks man! @ThxOne

12.4 is still a unsettling drop, Don't want to go below resting voltage for sure but you don't want that much swing.

Where are you reading your voltages from?

What amplifiers are you using that it is consuming that many amps?

How is the power wire distributed to the amplifiers and how are the amplifier grounds?

Grounding the alt case to the battery is 100% fine, not as your only ground of course (which clearly this is not in your case) Can never have too many grounds. I'm not sure who says this is not a good idea but don't listen to them, it is a circuit so having a direct ground gives you the least resistance. Personally I wouldn't ground to the header panel like that, some cars have very little connection from that to frame.

Is your system tuned with a oscilloscope? what knob are you using?

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Just wanted to give you an update as to how it went. These terminals saved my ass man! Lowest voltage im seeing now is like 12.4 and that’s a 3/4 bass knob turned up. Thanks man! @ThxOne
View attachment 24035

Happy to help, even if a little

 

[momeigs]

12.4 is still a unsettling drop, Don't want to go below resting voltage for sure but you don't want that much swing.

Where are you reading your voltages from?

What amplifiers are you using that it is consuming that many amps?

How is the power wire distributed to the amplifiers and how are the amplifier grounds?

Grounding the alt case to the battery is 100% fine, not as your only ground of course (which clearly this is not in your case) Can never have too many grounds. I'm not sure who says this is not a good idea but don't listen to them, it is a circuit so having a direct ground gives you the least resistance. Personally I wouldn't ground to the header panel like that, some cars have very little connection from that to frame.

Is your system tuned with a oscilloscope? what knob are you using?

I’m reading my voltage from a D4S volt meter wired into my sub amp.

My amps consist of a Skar Audio RP 1500 watt mono block (subs) and a Skar Audio RP 1000 watt 4 channel (mids and highs).

Not sure about the amps power distribution but I know the grounds are solid.

The ground that was used for the engine to chassis ground and the battery negative to chassis ground was the stock location of the battery negative ground. From what i’ve seen, it’s a fairly solid ground.

The system was tuned with a SMD DD1 and i’m using a PAC LC1 for my bass knob.

Thanks for your reply man!

 

[sicone22]

I’m reading my voltage from a D4S volt meter wired into my sub amp.
After looking at the pics again, Try measuring at your battery with a DMM. Looking at your pictures it looks like you may only be running 4 gauge? I suspect this is the remaining problem.

My amps consist of a Skar Audio RP 1500 watt mono block (subs) and a Skar Audio RP 1000 watt 4 channel (mids and highs).
I do not see those amps consuming more than the alternator is supplying after vehicle consumption factored in as well.

Not sure about the amps power distribution but I know the grounds are solid.
Power distribution would be what size wire from battery to trunk, How it is distributed from one wire to 2 amps. Seem to possibly be confused by what I meant or if you didn't install I suggest finding out as this could be very concerning even from a "professional" shop
The ground that was used for the engine to chassis ground and the battery negative to chassis ground was the stock location of the battery negative ground. From what i’ve seen, it’s a fairly solid ground.
More than likely this is solid in your case

The system was tuned with a SMD DD1 and i’m using a PAC LC1 for my bass knob.
Was it tuned with the knob all the way "up"?
Otherwise perfect! Wanted to make sure it is not a bass knob that controls bass boost that some supplied with amplifiers do. RCA knobs are great.

Thanks for your reply man!
Of course, trying to be thorough since diagnostics remotely is a tad difficult.

 

[momeigs]

I’m reading my voltage from a D4S volt meter wired into my sub amp.
After looking at the pics again, Try measuring at your battery with a DMM. Looking at your pictures it looks like you may only be running 4 gauge? I suspect this is the remaining problem.

My amps consist of a Skar Audio RP 1500 watt mono block (subs) and a Skar Audio RP 1000 watt 4 channel (mids and highs).
I do not see those amps consuming more than the alternator is supplying after vehicle consumption factored in as well.

Not sure about the amps power distribution but I know the grounds are solid.
Power distribution would be what size wire from battery to trunk, How it is distributed from one wire to 2 amps. Seem to possibly be confused by what I meant or if you didn't install I suggest finding out as this could be very concerning even from a "professional" shop
The ground that was used for the engine to chassis ground and the battery negative to chassis ground was the stock location of the battery negative ground. From what i’ve seen, it’s a fairly solid ground.
More than likely this is solid in your case

The system was tuned with a SMD DD1 and i’m using a PAC LC1 for my bass knob.
Was it tuned with the knob all the way "up"?
Otherwise perfect! Wanted to make sure it is not a bass knob that controls bass boost that some supplied with amplifiers do. RCA knobs are great.

Thanks for your reply man!
Of course, trying to be thorough since diagnostics remotely is a tad difficult.

Ok so I kept the stock cables in the car that were on the battery’s posts before I did this big 3. Those cables are 4 gauge but I don’t suspect that would be the issue if I upgraded the grounds and power wire with 1/0 cable.

As for the power distribution, the wire size is 4 gauge. The amps were not installed by me. I know that 4 gauge wire that is hooked up to the positive battery post went straight to the mono block amp before they installed the 4 channel. I’m also puzzled as to why there is only one wire powering two amps. I’m not to familiar with wiring amps but I know they did mention something about a distribution block.

As for the tuning, I believe the system was only tuned on full volume with the bass knob at a little over 3/4 of the way up. The tuner let me know that I probably need a new battery due to my voltages dropping.

 

[momeigs]

I’m reading my voltage from a D4S volt meter wired into my sub amp.
After looking at the pics again, Try measuring at your battery with a DMM. Looking at your pictures it looks like you may only be running 4 gauge? I suspect this is the remaining problem.

My amps consist of a Skar Audio RP 1500 watt mono block (subs) and a Skar Audio RP 1000 watt 4 channel (mids and highs).
I do not see those amps consuming more than the alternator is supplying after vehicle consumption factored in as well.

Not sure about the amps power distribution but I know the grounds are solid.
Power distribution would be what size wire from battery to trunk, How it is distributed from one wire to 2 amps. Seem to possibly be confused by what I meant or if you didn't install I suggest finding out as this could be very concerning even from a "professional" shop
The ground that was used for the engine to chassis ground and the battery negative to chassis ground was the stock location of the battery negative ground. From what i’ve seen, it’s a fairly solid ground.
More than likely this is solid in your case

The system was tuned with a SMD DD1 and i’m using a PAC LC1 for my bass knob.
Was it tuned with the knob all the way "up"?
Otherwise perfect! Wanted to make sure it is not a bass knob that controls bass boost that some supplied with amplifiers do. RCA knobs are great.

Thanks for your reply man!
Of course, trying to be thorough since diagnostics remotely is a tad difficult.

Ok so I think i’ve found my answer and figured i’d share it with you to save a long reply.

I remember someone telling me that if I was going to get into car audio, my electronic load detection system (ELD) was going to be an issue. I did some research on a honda forum, specifically for my 2001 Honda Accord’s ELD system. I found that when the PCM senses a higher DC voltage from the ELD, such as when a higher current pull from my amps, the PCM tells the alternator to turn off. Therefore the voltage drops to float, this system is to increase fuel efficiency. The system only senses current through the ignition system.

So basically, i’m screwed unless I get the balls to bypass this system.

 

[sicone22]

Ok so I kept the stock cables in the car that were on the battery’s posts before I did this big 3. Those cables are 4 gauge but I don’t suspect that would be the issue if I upgraded the grounds and power wire with 1/0 cable.

As for the power distribution, the wire size is 4 gauge. The amps were not installed by me. I know that 4 gauge wire that is hooked up to the positive battery post went straight to the mono block amp before they installed the 4 channel. I’m also puzzled as to why there is only one wire powering two amps. I’m not to familiar with wiring amps but I know they did mention something about a distribution block.

As for the tuning, I believe the system was only tuned on full volume with the bass knob at a little over 3/4 of the way up. The tuner let me know that I probably need a new battery due to my voltages dropping.

the cables on the battery are absolutely fine. keeping the stock wires are a good idea and only add to the big 3.

That 4 gauge is NOT sufficient for that sub amp let alone another as well, 1/0 will be fine to a distribution block with a 1/0 off feeding the 1500 and a 4ga to the interior. since the 4 gauge is there however I would just feed that to the 4 channel and run a dedicated 1/0 to the 1500.

Just make sure you don't go past whatever it is tuned to. Unsure of why they did that, can do that if you want to induce slight clipping but that is much more technical that can be learned later lol


In reply to the ELD system. Was there any literature on that with the alternator? I would be surprised mechman did not notate this. A resistor should probably be installed to keep this from happening if that is the case. I do not know about the eld system but there has to be a bypass or "trick" like the resistor to make it work.

but with that 4 gauge wire, that is not helping anything at all and needs to be sorted 100% for sure.

 

[sicone22]

Honda Electrical Load Detection (ELD) Bypass - Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums

Audio/Visual Electronics - Honda Electrical Load Detection (ELD) Bypass - I'll start by saying that I am not a Honda technician or representative. I'm an Electrical Engineer with an emphasis in digital and analog circuit design - which required a lot of circuit construction and design both as...

www.hondaaccordforum.com

This is a old thread but looks like a fix.

google honda eld bypass and start reading, that should get you where you want to go