Best Class D 1200W China Amp? (2019)

I have a '93 Wrangler with two Rockford Fosgate Punch P3D4-12 subs wired at 1ohm in a custom box. I just lost my second RF M1200-1D marine amp (this time due to my own stupidity).

RF doesn't make the marine version of this amp anymore, and I feel like I can get quality amp for less money than the standard M1200.

I usually try to research this stuff into oblivion and make a confident decision, but I've noticed that the 'best Chinese amp brand' tends to be in categories of power, class, etc, and they change frequently. So I'm wondering, as of March 2019, what's the best value Class D amp to power my two subs, rated for 1200W RMS combined?

(The amp will be exposed to moisture, but not directly to water)

 
Not Chinese but Brazilian. 

MD1800.1 $200 

MD3000 $250.

HD3000 $185

For Chinese.

Pioneer 9601 $185
Thank you, I'll look into these to get started.

Why would anyone want the best chinese amp? 

That's like saying I want the best pile of shit
I suppose I could've said off-brand, or budget, or something else, but I think the intent was clear. For an amp that will almost certainly need to be replaced due to exposure to elements long before any mechanical design failure, I just want the best deal I can get for a product that fits the bill.

I don't want to buy the cheapest product out there with no research, but I also don't want to spend the extra money on a name-brand amp if a cheaper option will achieve the same results.

In my car, I spend the money for quality I trust. In my Jeep, everything is disposable to some degree. It's a matter of weighing the cost:benefit ratio.

 
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The taramps are the absolute best value for the money right now, I suggest you take that advice. 

If for some reason you don't like taking advice, like most people who come asking for it, at least go look up the model of the amp you're looking to buy in google followed by the words "amp dyno" i.e. taramps hd3000 amp dyno. 

 
The taramps are the absolute best value for the money right now, I suggest you take that advice. 

If for some reason you don't like taking advice, like most people who come asking for it, at least go look up the model of the amp you're looking to buy in google followed by the words "amp dyno" i.e. taramps hd3000 amp dyno. 
I completely understand what you mean about people not taking the advice they ask for. I'm a moderator on a popular Jeep forum, and I admin their Facebook page. People drive me nuts sometimes.

I've actually been using this forum for years to study the subject of car audio and to research various items. I tend not to post on forums unless I simply can't find the answer I'm looking for on my own. In this case, my research has shown me that the various budget brands tend to be bought and sold, or change production methods, pretty regularly. What may have been a great value 6 months ago might not be any good today, and that's why I created the thread.

I appreciate you seconding his suggestion, and I'm looking at those amps now.

 
Okay, opportunity for me to learn something here:

Why are you guys recommending the MD1800 and MD3000 instead of the MD1200 which is rated for the same RMS power as the combined rating of my two subs?
Impedance rise and voltage drop will cause you to lose alot of power.  Always want headroom.

 
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So was my Rockford Fosgate amp (tested at 1,324 @1ohm, per the insert) likely underpowering my subs which were wired for 1,200W RMS?  And is there a particular target number I should aim for regarding overhead, or a way to calculate that?

I upgraded to 4-gauge OFC for power and ground, but it's a relatively long run since the amp is in the back. I would've liked to have used 2, but my amp didn't support it.

 
So was my Rockford Fosgate amp (tested at 1,324 @1ohm, per the insert) likely underpowering my subs which were wired for 1,200W RMS?  And is there a particular target number I should aim for regarding overhead, or a way to calculate that?

I upgraded to 4-gauge OFC for power and ground, but it's a relatively long run since the amp is in the back. I would've liked to have used 2, but my amp didn't support it.
dont worry about the sub's rms etc... You just want the biggest amp you can get for the money and you can adjust the gain which will limit how much power the sub sees. With a bigger amp, you wont run into clipping and distortion to get the output you need and the amp works less hard, the subs see a clean signal, your equipment overall is a lot cooler which lasts a lot longer.    typical box rise is 2-4 ohms when wired to 1 ohm so look at 2 to 4 ohm power numbers and thats more in line of what the subs actually see. 

When setting gains, just make sure you listen for the subs to hear for any stress, keep your noise sharp, and check heat levels on the sub every minute to fine tune max output point.

 
I use 4000 series Stinger. 

I avoid the cables that go on tight if I'm using non Tiffany style jacks. You risk pulling off the rca surrounds if you do. 

 
I swear by KnuKonceptz crystal RCAs. I've had some for 9 years that are still working perfectly.    When I started running 4+ amps I went to a local shop to get RCAs ASAP and they only carried Stinger so I have a **** load of Stinger 3000 RCAs, splitters, strapping cables, etc. They are okay but I prefer the Knukonceptz.

 
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