Best 6.5" speakers with no amp, but some bass. (need recommendations)

[Hardworkingman32]

As the title suggests I want to know what you think the best sounding 6.5" speakers are that provide some decent amount of bass while being clear even at high volumes. I currently do not have an amplifier for my speakers so we must take that into account, I am looking to buy a 5 channel amp to power my whole system on down the road my current subwoofer is 400w RMS 800w Peak. I am working to rebuild my system in stages, but I need suggestions as to what speakers and headunit you would recommend. It would be replacing a pioneer 6800BT.

Stage 1 is a new head unit capable of reaching high volumes undistorted. Preferably single DIN, but I can do double DIN also if needed.
Stage 2 is adding a set of coaxial speakers for the fronts
Stage 3 is buying component speakers for the front setup and moving the front coaxials to the back 6.5" location
Stage 4 is buying a new 5 channel amp to run everything
Stage 5 is a custom sub box to house a hard hitting full size sub

I am currently on stages 1 and 2, but I need speaker recommendations and headunit recommendations for clean output even at high volumes.

Click to read more...

 

[kattan_tha_mam]

I would recommend a cet of jbl or infinity components. They work ok off the head unit and really sing with an amp. You didn't list a price range but these can't be beat in the $100 price range. For $200 i recommend infinity kappas. These speakers are hard to beat for the price.

As far as having decent bass, that is all in the door prep. thououghly sound deaden the entire door and install stinger roadkill baffle ring kits. Bass output is super dependent on your door prep job. If done right, you will have strong bass and midbass. In fact I would say the sound deadening job and speaker install job is more important gor bass than the actual speakers.

 

[GBloes]

Do you know what the amps output is going to be? JLs C1s, on paper, look like they’d be pretty good. They’re not 75w but even if you use 40w speakers with a 100w amp you’ll be fine as long as you’ve got the gains set properly and having quieter speaker in the back isn’t a big deal. The best place to start would be going to crutchfield.com (https://www.crutchfield.com/car/carselector.aspx?lp=/car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx if you follow that link and put in your car’s information they’ll show you everything [including head units] that work with your car). I’d recommend reading some of their articles about choosing speakers and such. Spend some time going through their site and looking at speakers, google anything you don’t know. Since you’re going to be running the speakers off of stock power there’s not a whole lot that’s going to make a huge difference between any speakers of a similar price but since they’ll be going in the back you can use choosing them as a learning experience since rear speakers aren’t going to make much of a difference to anyone sitting in the front seat.

Pay attention to power ratings (RMS is all that matters, peak is virtually meaningless), sensitivity (how loud they will be, it’s measured in decibels like 90dB @1w 1m [produces 90dB using 1 watt measured 1 meter away from the speaker]or 87dB @ 2.86v 1m [I don’t recall exactly what the volts are but whatever it is is the same as 2w if the speakers are 4ohms), and the resistance (ohms) of the speaker. Most car speakers are 4ohms, the resistance dictates how much power the amp puts out (not 100% accurate but close enough). If you’ve got an amp that puts out 100w into a 4ohm load it’ll put out 150w into 2ohm (unless it’s designed to be different). Not all amps/head units can be used with anything below 4ohms without blowing.

Do some research, spend time comparing and contrasting speakers and learning what all the numbers and acronyms mean. But above all enjoy yourself, if it starts getting bothersome either walk away or move on to something else. Choosing these speakers is a great place to start as they’ll be moved to be back eventually, you’ve got room for error.

I’d avoid getting speakers below 4ohms incase that might limit what amp/head unit you can use. And using 2.5ohm speaker with your factory head unit might blow it if it’s not made to work with anything below 4ohms (might not be an issue but it’s worth mentioning).