battery's

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

What is the best audio battery out there, thats not over $180. 16v is fine my amp will take 17v max. I have an "optima" but it really isnt for audio.

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[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Well unless you plan on installing an isolated electrical system for your amps only including an alternator and batteries, then 16V is not OK. Your amps may be able to take it, but your stock alternator (or even most all aftermarket ones) can't charge it and the rest of your car can't handle that much voltage without damage; ie. fried computer, blown light bulbs and a toasted HU.

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

i can get all the 16v stuff from excessive amperage.com. Please dont write some spheil about the electrical system, i know what to do. I just want to know about the battery.Thanks

 

[zane 10+ year member]

i can get all the 16v stuff from excessive amperage.com. Please dont write some spheil about the electrical system, i know what to do. I just want to know about the battery.Thanks

That was not some random spiel.

Helotaxi is correct with the concern of a 16 VDC System.

Today's ECU/ECM-PCM Auto Computer Systems are built for a 12 VDC environment, not a 16V one.

Standard Alternators produce on average 13.8 -14.4 VDC and that is their regulated limit to avoid damaging the rest of the electrical system.

Ever worked on a car where the regulator failed and allowed the alternator to run wide open?

Not a pretty site, or price to fix mind you.

ECU-PCM, All Sensors, All Fuse's/Breaker's/Relay's, Instrument Cluster, Radio, clock, and climate displays, fuel injectors, etc, etc, etc.

Way too much to replace just because the voltage was allowed to go over it's designed regulations. All these repairs brought this car to a halt in under a minute's time, and the cause, a tiny little box called the voltage regulator.

Isolation is really the only way to go.

Even so, why do you feel you need 16 VDC?

Most systems today with proper design run quite well without the need to increase source voltage beyond normal.

If you must though, your best bet is to evaluate your power needs, determine your alternator output, wiring, ignition, isolation, and then base your battery choice with consideration to these.

Likely you would be looking into a CAT or Diesel Battery for that type of voltage.

Interstate Batteries has always had a good reputation, and a fine product. I would consider talking with them for your battery concerns if you absolutely must run 16 VDC.

I do not understand at all your statements concerning Optima, or in which world you came to your conclusions to form them, however, that is another matter........

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

i can get all the 16v stuff from excessive amperage.com. Please dont write some spheil about the electrical system, i know what to do. I just want to know about the battery.Thanks

If you know what to do, why are you asking questions? How do you plan on isolating the bigger alt from the engine block electrically? What about the negative power cable for the system? It isn't a matter of just replacing the alternator and the battery with higher voltage models. You are basically going to have to create an entirely new electrical system just for the amps. This new electrical system will have to be totally isolated from the chassis totally. You can't just use a normal ground. If you really want to go to all this trouble, and it is a ton of trouble, good luck. The BatCap 8400 should work, but I'm not sure of the price. Other than that you are not going to be looking at "audio" batteries, they are all a nominal 12V.

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

the 12v is fine, the 16v was an idea. any batts that are good that are 12v. I have seen regulators that willregulate 16v from 12v. I do not want to do my whole truck 16v just my amp.It pulls 400a with 12v, thats to much with all the other stuff i have. Does any body just answer a simple question around here? I have a "red top" not really made for audio. If you dont care then dont post

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

The big Stinger batteries are good. The Exide Orbital is a much less expensive version of the Yellow Top Optima. Just about any deep cycle battery will do.

I'm guessing that this is for a comp system? I'm still not sure that you understand that you can't have just the amp running @ 16V and the rest of the car running at 12V without a ton of work to build a totally independent 16V charging system for just the amp. Unless you have an unregulated power supply on the amp the benefit of going to a higher voltage is just not worth the trouble. It would be cheaper and easier to just get 1 or 2 really big alts for driving and a bank of a lot of batteries to help during the comps.

 

[audiolover33 10+ year member]

Hate to jump right in here....but...I am haveing power issues and was wondering if just doing the wire changes from batt to alt and adding a larger batt would do the job, or...do ya always also have to upgrade the alt from a stock to larger??I dont have that much of a system but it seems that my alt is not chargeing my batt fast enough..gets hard to start the car when I have been useing the system...Now if I dont use anything then the car starts fine!

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

i was thinking= turbostart TB16V with a turbostart 16V324. Wont that work, it is very expensive for these items, out of my price range. Not a comp system, just a daily driver. I want to be different. but if it is to much of a hastle i wont do 16v.

P.S

battery's ive thought about

Optima

Exide

Interstate

turbostart

Batcap

Diehard

Kirkland

Energizer

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

SVR makes solid batts too

 

[zane 10+ year member]

but if it is to much of a hastle i wont do 16v.

That is kind of the point we were getting at.

Just a battery won't cut it.

Doing the Isolation will far excede your original $180 limit as well.

With the upgrades you can make to a normal 12 VDC charging system, in relation to the minimal benefit of increasing to 16 VDC, it really is more of a hassle than necessary to even consider a 16 VDC Set up.

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

i for got svr, ive seen them before. so whats the "best 12v" battery. just the battery, i will do the wire upgrade when i get the "best 12v" battery. You guys are more than exceeding the question limits //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[METIKAL579 10+ year member]

interstate gold