Are more expensive speakers really that much better than cheaper ones?

Alex Jarrell

CarAudio.com Newbie
12
0
I'm looking to put some new speakers in my 2013 Kia Rio.  I spoke with a local audio shop that recommended Alpine Type R 6.5" speakers for $260.  I've been looking online though and have found quite a few options with great reviews ranging from $65 - $90.  I'm wondering if the ~$200 price difference is really going to make that much of a difference, or if I would be better served going with one of the cheaper options and putting the extra money towards a sub system as well.

 
Depends on what your ultimate goal is for your system, and your budget. If you are just doing speakers, sub, and amp, you should be able to find a better deal with little effort. If you are really looking for a nice system, there are many other factors to consider. The first thing you might wanted to think about is sound deadening your ride. Best bang for the buck upgrade, and will even make your stock system sound better. Just my .02

 
really depends on the rest of your system. If everything you keep in the car is factory, going out and buying 600 dollar speakers may not change anything. If you are upgrading the whole system, you certainly can hear differences. I first would listen to speaker and get a feel for what you like. Dont just buy online unless you have listened. I also think at certain points you get diminishing returns at certain price points. I recently demoed a set of speakers and heard a big difference from the 300 dollar pair to the 600 dollar pair. I didnt hear anything different from the 600 dollar pair to the 1000 dollar pair, all from the same manufacturer

 
I'm looking to put some new speakers in my 2013 Kia Rio.  I spoke with a local audio shop that recommended Alpine Type R 6.5" speakers for $260.  I've been looking online though and have found quite a few options with great reviews ranging from $65 - $90.  I'm wondering if the ~$200 price difference is really going to make that much of a difference, or if I would be better served going with one of the cheaper options and putting the extra money towards a sub system as well.
they are not worth 260$ you are getting your @sshole completely raped with that pricing. 

 
everything else matters a lot more to be honest. Signal processing active crossover tuning, Deadening, install techniques, System design and enough clean amplification does WAY more than speaker choice.  260 bucks can get you a processor/or good head unit that does way more for your overall sound than swapping speakers and doing nothing else. Actually if you just swap speakers only and dont do anything else your whole system will sound like absolute **** compared to your stock setup because aftermarkets require a clean flat signal from the head unit along with amplification and deadening. If you are missing any of those then you literally wasted your time and money completely.

 
everything else matters a lot more to be honest. Signal processing active crossover tuning, Deadening, install techniques, System design and enough clean amplification does WAY more than speaker choice.  260 bucks can get you a processor/or good head unit that does way more for your overall sound than swapping speakers and doing nothing else. Actually if you just swap speakers only and dont do anything else your whole system will sound like absolute **** compared to your stock setup because aftermarkets require a clean flat signal from the head unit along with amplification and deadening. If you are missing any of those then you literally wasted your time and money completely.
I plan on swapping out both the speakers and head piece eventually, I am just looking at doing it in steps right now.  I've spoken with some people who have suggested replacing the speakers first, but it sounds like you're suggesting that starting with the head piece will yield the best results.  Is that right?

 
I plan on swapping out both the speakers and head piece eventually, I am just looking at doing it in steps right now.  I've spoken with some people who have suggested replacing the speakers first, but it sounds like you're suggesting that starting with the head piece will yield the best results.  Is that right?
yeah those people have no fking clue what it actually takes to sound good.  Head unit is always top priority. You can then add an amp to your stock speakers as well and you'll see everything completely change.  Your stock head unit at best puts out 3-5 watts and has low resolution digital to analogue converters thats holding everything back. You put in power hungry speakers to only 3-5 watts and your setup will sound weak with zero clarity and a major loss of bass.   I'd recommend a pioneer head unit because they have network mode with active crossovers and then with a 4 channel amp, you can do a 2 way active front setup buying seperate tweeters and mids that are much higher quality than the crap in type R sets for a lot cheaper.

 
I'd recommend a pioneer head unit because they have network mode with active crossovers
Can you elaborate on what network mode and active crossovers are and why they'd be important?  I've heard good things about Pioneer and was thinking about sticking with that brand already, but outside of that I don't really know a whole lot about what makes a good head piece.

 
Can you elaborate on what network mode and active crossovers are and why they'd be important?  I've heard good things about Pioneer and was thinking about sticking with that brand already, but outside of that I don't really know a whole lot about what makes a good head piece.
with those type R components you buy, there's a set crossover point inside the crossover that you cannot change no matter what however inside a car. The crossover point is where the mid cuts off and lets the tweeter handle the rest. there's different things from the seat fabric material to the shape of the dash to how far away the tweeters are from the glass etc... all these factor into vehicle acoustics that determine how good or bad your system sounds.  With a passive crossover you cannot change anything, you are stuck with what you have even if it sounds like complete sh*t. There's also the matter of time alignment as well which is delaying the signal of each driver so all the sound waves reaches your ears at the same time to create a virtual sound stage aka a live performance feel right on your dash where you can see via sound. This is only possible with active mode which lets you individually control the midrange and tweeter crossover points and time alignment separately along with the output as well.  Most of the pioneer double dins can do this.  Kenwoods and alpines cannot. 

As for your setup. Later on down the line, you'll be leaving the stock speakers in on head unit power and spend ZERO dollars on anything in the rear. Focus all amplification power, money and effort on the front speakers running active if you want a competition level sounding setup as your daily driver on a budget.

 
active mode which lets you individually control the midrange and tweeter crossover points and time alignment separately along with the output as well.
Thank you for the easy to understand explanation.  My only concern is the quoted part.  As someone who has zero knowledge on the subject, how difficult would it be to optimize these settings?

 
I have the latest Type R's on passive they aren't too bad. I knew someone that wanted to upgrade so he let them go for cheap. To help the OP and me what else does it take to go active besides a network capable deck?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have the latest Type R's on passive they aren't too bad. I knew someone that wanted to upgrade so he let them go for cheap. To help the OP and me what else does it take to go active besides a network capable deck?
4 channel amp, dedicated wiring to the mid and tweeter and the deck, reset deck to factory default, choose network mode thats it.  Go to crossovers and play with the crossover points and slope till it sounds really smooth and clean. Then do time alignment and EQ viola magic.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Run the biggest AGM you can under the hood, the parallel runs to one of these - should be everything you need and then some...
5
140
It is Opel (Vauxhall) Astra J 2011 model, I change the HU to Kirinavi 10 inch screen. The factory speakers are Infinity and would have come with a...
3
322
That’s the little single 6.5 inch enclosure. The Savard did just as well as the RDS. These subs do well in ported or 6th orders but not as well...
12
444
Thanks. That makes sense. It sounds pretty good as is.
3
776
I'd say look around and confirm you can get stronger subs that will work if you blow your SA's. If you have options, go for it! Get an amp with...
5
852

About this thread

Alex Jarrell

CarAudio.com Newbie
Thread starter
Alex Jarrell
Joined
Location
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
22
Views
3,616
Last reply date
Last reply from
DRBOOM
DD451980-D607-41AB-B69C-6745AAE4B848.jpeg

SlugButter

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
F98C6D78-7734-4659-9FCA-34969BDDC56A.jpeg

SlugButter

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top