Anybody use speaker box lite?

[Rosshimself]

I don’t have a computer to model anything but I’m kinda interested in playing with a bandpass for an old kicker audiophile I picked up cheap. Not sure if it’s possible to have good results without a computer. The wood is likely to be the biggest investment of the project and I think it would be cool not to have a lot of noise coming from the trunk. I’m gonna try to find a 100-200w rms amp to push this bad boy. I appreciate any help with my journey.

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[shredder2]

I don’t have a computer to model anything but I’m kinda interested in playing with a bandpass for an old kicker audiophile I picked up cheap. Not sure if it’s possible to have good results without a computer. The wood is likely to be the biggest investment of the project and I think it would be cool not to have a lot of noise coming from the trunk. I’m gonna try to find a 100-200w rms amp to push this bad boy. I appreciate any help with my journey.

I use Speakerbox lite database for parameters that I cant find elsewhere sometimes or to verify hinky parameters given. As far as the rest of the site goes I've never looked at it. There's some kind of software on there? Maybe I'll check it out.

 

[Rosshimself]

I use Speakerbox lite database for parameters that I cant find elsewhere sometimes or to verify hinky parameters given. As far as the rest of the site goes I've never looked at it. There's some kind of software on there? Maybe I'll check it out.

I’m able to run it on my phone and it spits out response graphs, spl, even an estimated excursion function. I just wanna make sure that I have a decent passband, that “digs” into the 30’s and I don’t really want anything above 70-80 on the high end. https://speakerboxlite.com/project-...3f7b66a7a1bb8012c65f06af562be578f7e3ee3edaeab

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I can give some advice if you PM me.

 

[Rosshimself]

I’m thinking something about like this would be great for my application. I shrunk the front side down a lot and got the rear to about as large as I feel comfortable with I really don’t want to go too big and end up bottoming out. The measurements are not final I just wanted something to show I’m not trying to build a one note wonder I just wanted to bounce ideas off people that are interested.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I’m thinking something about like this would be great for my application. I shrunk the front side down a lot and got the rear to about as large as I feel comfortable with I really don’t want to go too big and end up bottoming out. The measurements are not final I just wanted something to show I’m not trying to build a one note wonder I just wanted to bounce ideas off people that are interested.

Can you manually say the airspaces and tunings and stuff?

 

[Rosshimself]

Can you manually say the airspaces and tunings and stuff?

Yes. It’s actually really impressive for something that can run in a mobile browser. I’m not sure how accurate the graphs are but with about 1 cuft sealed it comes close to xmax by about 0.1mm at 24hz which is out of the passband anyway. These numbers came from me selecting a wide passband and 0db gain on a drop down menu. After seeing the wide passband I am thinking something like 1.0/1.0 tuned around 45 with a 3” aero.

 

[SlugButter]

I use it a lot on my iPad. It’s really decent for a mobile app. It’s a tad limited on features, but if all you need is to graph and get volume numbers, it works well. For the old school guys who don’t mind using graph paper and a scratch pad for designing, it’s decent.

 

[SlugButter]

Also, I don’t have the pro version. It does have more features if you buy the pro

 

[Rosshimself]

I use it a lot on my iPad. It’s really decent for a mobile app. It’s a tad limited on features, but if all you need is to graph and get volume numbers, it works well. For the old school guys who don’t mind using graph paper and a scratch pad for designing, it’s decent.

Yes I really just need to get the volumes. I’m not quite that old school but I don’t think I could make a box without a scratch pad.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I’ve made boxes with paper and pencil and a calculator and a port length calculator from a web page on my iPhone lol. I write my own spreadsheets, though. It makes my OCD happy to have everything exactly the numbers that they are. No rounding off or anything.

Tuning and box size for woofers can be very difficult to determine. Some t/s are hard to read, and you don’t always know the type of suspension a woofer has, and that makes the t/s read differently, even though you can sometimes spot certain suspension types by the ratio of certain t/s parameters

There’s only so many combos of woofer types with the available design styles. So to get the best volumes, you gotta know how the combos of parts in a woofer are acting relative to other woofers with their t/s. All of the style changes show up in the t/s. It takes a while to learn what they actually mean, like intuitively so. Even then, you have no idea who tested them or what the state of the woofer was during testing. You just have to understand why some woofers look the way they do and how they’re made to perform.

4th orders are more about the sealed then anything. People make 4th orders like they make SPL boxes. Idk people act they don’t understand sealed boxes sometimes. Sealed boxes have properties that change the whole system. The rear chamber in a bandpass is always the most important one, and you need to make sure that woofer will actually do what you want it to in a 4th. Or at least understand how to make the box the best way to get it the way you want. I learned 6th orders because sometimes 6th orders are superior for certain applications. Some subs just do better with a port. Sometimes it’s a hard decision to make lol.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

All you need is a port length calculator (or the formula) and a pencil, ultimately.

 

[Rosshimself]

I’ve made boxes with paper and pencil and a calculator and a port length calculator from a web page on my iPhone lol. I write my own spreadsheets, though. It makes my OCD happy to have everything exactly the numbers that they are. No rounding off or anything.

Tuning and box size for woofers can be very difficult to determine. Some t/s are hard to read, and you don’t always know the type of suspension a woofer has, and that makes the t/s read differently, even though you can sometimes spot certain suspension types by the ratio of certain t/s parameters

There’s only so many combos of woofer types with the available design styles. So to get the best volumes, you gotta know how the combos of parts in a woofer are acting relative to other woofers with their t/s. All of the style changes show up in the t/s. It takes a while to learn what they actually mean, like intuitively so. Even then, you have no idea who tested them or what the state of the woofer was during testing. You just have to understand why some woofers look the way they do and how they’re made to perform.

4th orders are more about the sealed then anything. People make 4th orders like they make SPL boxes. Idk people act they don’t understand sealed boxes sometimes. Sealed boxes have properties that change the whole system. The rear chamber in a bandpass is always the most important one, and you need to make sure that woofer will actually do what you want it to in a 4th. Or at least understand how to make the box the best way to get it the way you want. I learned 6th orders because sometimes 6th orders are superior for certain applications. Some subs just do better with a port. Sometimes it’s a hard decision to make lol.

I understand you there. This is a low power low fs woofer with a mass loaded dust cap. That’s actually the main reason I have any concerns about the function I can’t find the mmd for the driver. I know it’s meant for small sealed enclosure, that’s why I am not trying to go ported with it. I have plenty of time to play with the design so I’m trying to pin down the airspace and tuning then I’ll make it fit in the vehicle. I have plenty of room to work with for something like this instead of a little sealed box tucked in the corner. I am trying to absorb the advice from you guys. That’s why I posted the auto generated one because it is close to the response I would like. I’m probably gonna end up going a little bit larger on the ported side but seeing the wide range of output was encouraging. I don’t really need my output so low, or high, so I think increasing the size of the ported side is a good compromise to increase output a bit and narrow the pass band a little bit. I hope you are not tired of this conversation because I am enjoying your insight.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Nah man it's what I do haha. I'm always thinking about this stuff too, it's a two way street. If I say I know everything about sound, I'm lying lol. Always more to learn.