another cahrging system ?

ny96j30
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Can someone point me to some guidelines, or articles to read about charging system upgrades?

Here's my alternator output:

@1500rpm - 23 amps

@2500 - 63

@5000 - 87

1500 rpm is a little above cold idle, 800 is idle - I assume ~ 15 amps at idle. Im going to run between 600-750W RMS (100-125x2 to comps, and 400-500 to sub).

Amps = watts x volts...so if I'm running at 12 volts, I need 62.5 amps free for the system...and at 14 volts I'd need 53 volts - this is to reach the cieling.

Question is do I need a higher output alternator, or will I be okay.

 
Some help? One of the amps I;m looking at takes a 60 amp fuse (RF 801x), the other one im looking at is 3x40(Kicker KX800).

 
Seriously? 40 people have viewed this and no one can tell me if I should upgrade my 90 amp alt for a 600-750W load????

Look, I know I need 30-50 amps to run my car's oem electrical, and the rms load of the system factoring for amplifier inefficiency is around 1000 W, so I figure about 70 amps to run the system all out. So I need 100-120 amps to run the system at full rms power and the cars systems.

So how do I, or do I need to, account for peaks? And since 5000 rpms is a worthless rating, since the car is hardly ever in that range, and I figure I'm making about 70-75 amps at 3000 rpms (hwy speed) should that be enough to keep my battery from deep cycling? What about at idle?

Thanks for the help

 
Cool, thanks for the help bro. I'll be sure to check out your boxes, if you're advice on them is likely to be as helpful.

BTW, its indepenent.

 
BTW, it's your advice.

Thanks for the help with the spelling though. I kind of liked it before, since it was the independent spelling of the word...

Ah well. Basically for something like that, just try it out. Even though you may get all of those numbers, you might find results that are a bit different. I think you did a good job researching, but since I do not know if you'll be running heaters, A/C, etc, it's hard to just say, "Yes, upgrade your system."

I would say, since leaving the system as is would cost you nothing, simply install the equipment, and keep the volume down at first. Slowly turn it up, if you notice signs of dimmage, or other electrical problems, then you may need to upgrade.

Who knows, maybe you won't like having the volume extremely loud all the time, and your charging system could be good enough. Either way, I think you should install the equipment, then upgrade if you need to. I personally would rather save a few hundred on an alternator if I didn't have to purchase it, and I don't believe that someone hear can tell you with 100% certainty whether or not it will work.

I will let you know that I run a Hifonics ZX8000 amp which has dual 50amp fuses and I have no dimmage, however I also do not have any drivers on channels 3 and 4 yet. Once there is current draw on those channels, maybe my situation will change.

I used to own a Hifonics BX1500D (which I believe had dual 60amp fuses), and when I was running a Digital Designs 9512e series subwoofer, I got some headlight dimmage that could be pretty bad at times, but I didn't notice anything too severe.

That's about all I can help you with. Hope that helped.

T.J.

 
And for future reference, I tend to suggest eleventy when I really mean, "Well, give it a shot, what have you got to lose. Then if it doesn't work, you can go from there."

T.J.

 
Amps = watts x volts...
I was kind of skeptical about this, but then I realized the x was probably a type, and it was supposed to be / .

No big deal, but I think that was what originally got me into the "funny, fishy, eleventy" mood.

If you're interested in a box, let me know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Although I think there was some sarcasm there...

T.J.

 
Yeah, I was being a dick. Just a little frustrated. Good call on the 'cahrging' system, I realized that before, but you can't change the name of threads. Also, yeah, I mistyped the formula, its [watts = amps x volts] or [amps = watts/volts], but the math is right as to the amperage.

Anyway, thanks for the post. I'm not at the stage of needing a box yet I'm still researcing and purchasing, but I will keep you in mind (no saracasm).

 
There are VERY few stock charging systems that can't handle a 1000w rms amp. Yes, it may be CAPABLE of 1000w and drawing 100A or so, but that would be at FULL output playing a low frequency test tone. With a 90A alternator and a 600 or 800w amp you should have NOTHING to worry about. I ran 1000w system off a 75A alt for 2 years w/very little problem. And that alt had 200k on it.

 
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