American bass xfl 10 inch

[Jimg]

I have about 3 cubic foot to work with

If using two 10 inch subs
On 3000w rms is there a better option for getting loud than the xfl 10 by American bass

We are running two Dayton HO tens now 1500 watts , it sounds good. Just wanting to try something a little different

Also would like to keep it to around $150 per sub

10 inch subs due to height restrictions is about as large as I can go

So to sum it up
3cf net
Two 10 inch subs
3000 watts
Loud over sound quality
$150 per sub

what would you go with or are the xfl good to go

Click to read more...

 

[Jimg]

Also prefer to stay with a standard round ported box I have it already in place
It would be easier to take up box size and redo port length than it would to rebuild the whole box



Not looking to a 4th order

 

[SlugButter]

That’s a good choice. That AB 10 is a good small ported box sub like the Dayton, but can handle more power. I have ran the Dayton HO 10 in .5 cubes myself. I chose it because it was a good sub in a small ported box. I also looked at the American bass 10, and modeled it in software, but it was more power than I wanted. It was also good in .5 up to around 1 cube ported. You should get a noticeable difference in output, even in the exact same box as the Dayton’s. If I were to build a box fresh for 2 AB xfl 10s, I would do .75 cubes per sub at 36 hz port tuning. If you want a ton of bottom end, maybe push up to 1 cube per sub. Power those subs right in a nicely braced box, and you’ll have a really nice sounding loud system.

 

[shredder2]

The Xfl-10s sound best in like 1.3-1.4ft3 net ea. Putting them in as small as .75ft3 is not something I'd do personally.

 

[Jimg]

Ssa on Their website

massive kilox 10

anyone have any experience with this line of sub

 

[shredder2]

I've no exp with massive Kilo but you said you have 3ft3 NET total with a round port... correct?

Once again... that's after the port displacement?

What size of round does the enclosure have?

Got a pic of the box or design?

 

[shredder2]

If it was me, for real gains and deeper lows while planning higher power I'd just order something legit and get it over with. I'd grab a pair of something that's great quality and legit, small box capable and digs super well. The FI X series comes to mind. Something like that would be worth the wait and extra funds Imo.
The wait would suk (but its worth it), the price is above what you listed (shipping sux too) but for a daily ground pounding setup I think they'd do the job. 3K wired 1 ohm would be about right to crank it up and keep it turned up with those little beasts. And the lows...

Here's a hatch/suv box that illustrates the potential size /w/ a slot and few compromises on your power...

An aero limits you, (a regular round unflared even more) to either too much or maybe enough port in certain cases and this might be one of those times... in this case even if its a trunk I'd suggest a properly sized slot. The FI X-10's will be worth the extra cost imo and get low and loud. (worth the wait they say... I always hated the FI wait myself... and ship cost).

Don't let the enclosure size scare you... most applications have a solution.

For those X-10's around 3ft3 even gross is doable imo so its close... that one above is 3.5ft3 gross without much in the way of compromises. Most enclosures are a collection of compromises anyways. A designer can help.

Its only 2 10's after all.

.

I'd just rebuild if the power is increasing anyways as the enclosure should need to be redone to make use of the added power.

Using a lower power designed enclosure will limit output, and probably be less than ideal. My opinion is if your going bigger go all in and do it right. Grab something that's going to dig and want more. Xfl's... maybe... but a lower power designed enclosure needs redesigned usually.

Electrical 1st tho.

 

[Jimg]

It has two 4 inch ports on the left side of the box with the subs front facing on the right side of the box

I need to get the exact measurements inside,, I think I will probably use Buck on here to see what subs would model up well with the space that is there.


really do not want to start over, just redo the front if possible

box is already mounted in place with an amp rack with trim cover panels that would have to also be redone.

I have thought about the electrical also, I need to go see if stock alternator setup will even allow going up in power. The current setup is not getting any voltage drop,
current setup. Us acoustics Barbara Ann. 400 watts. Us acoustics. Mike. 1500 watts
pioneer premier x422. 70 watts
used 0 gauge ofc and did big 3

but adding 1500 watts may not be an option with stock electrical.
I think the stock alternator is only 156 amps

 

[Jimg]

Thanks for all the advice

 

[Firewalker]

These would be a good choice for the wattage you have and the space you have. I'm sure buck could work it out with a set of these. These are known to take more as well and are really solid for the price.

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