Aftermarket radio keeps going out!

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hey guys, been a while.
I'm having a strange issue.
I installed an aftermarket radio/gps/backup cam in my wife's vehicle. It had no issues for about 2 weeks. Out of nowhere, it wouldn't power on. Checked the radio fuse (25a) under the hood and it looked to be fine except it was corroded with a thick white film. Cleaned the fuse socket and replaced with new 25a fuse.
Radio was working fine again for about 2 weeks. Then yesterday and today, I've had to pull the fuse and put it back in (same fuse, not replacement) for the radio to work again.
I'm not at all sure what the issue is. The fuse tests fine and has a SLIGHT layer of white film.

What could be causing the radio to turn off like this? If it is indeed the slight white film on the fuse connections, how do I fix this? Will dielectric grease on the fuse legs work, then plug it back in?
Do you guys think there's an issue elsewhere?
Friend of mine mentioned I might need a bigger fuse, but I'm worried about messing up the electrical with a higher Amp fuse if something were to go wrong.

Vehicle: 07 Toyota Highlander (non nav stock)
Radio: Boss Audio BVNV9384RC with nav, GPS, backup cam.
I know Boss Audio isn't great, but it works for our need perfectly...when it stays on lol.
 
Is this fuse close to, like above the battery positive? Usually gasses from the battery will cause corrosion on the positive terminal. It may be reaching the fuse. Do yourself a favor, clean, like really clean both battery terminals and connections and hook the battery back up and make sure the terminals are tight with no movement. Clean that fuse, use the dielectric grease and see if the corrosion stops. If this is an aftermarket fuse... move it away from the battery a bit and make sure all its connections are super tight too.
 
I had a similar issue with my stereo. It would cut off same as yours. I installed new wire from the battery to the fuse holder, and replaced the fuse holder. Problem solved. As previously suggested, move the fuse/holder a couple of inches further from the battery.
 
I'm not having issues with the an amplifier fuse on the positive cable. The issue is with the stock fuse box located under the hood. The 25a radio fuse inside the box is the issue. To clarify a little more, its the fuse box that has radio, horn, relays, lights, etc.
I cleaned the battery about 3 months ago very well, including the terminals and use dialectric. My posts and battery are completely spotless. Good idea though
Will be picking up some dialectric later this afternoon and attempting to clean the fuse holder
I'm still open to more ideas
 
I'm not having issues with the an amplifier fuse on the positive cable. The issue is with the stock fuse box located under the hood. The 25a radio fuse inside the box is the issue. To clarify a little more, its the fuse box that has radio, horn, relays, lights, etc.
I cleaned the battery about 3 months ago very well, including the terminals and use dialectric. My posts and battery are completely spotless. Good idea though
Will be picking up some dialectric later this afternoon and attempting to clean the fuse holder
I'm still open to more ideas
The only other idea I can come up with is to run a dedicated constant to the battery for the radio and put the switched 12v for the radio on another switched 12v circuit. If it corrodes that fuse, you know the radio is causing it for some reason.
 
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HighlanderAudio

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