Advice? How to connect 2 front speaker into 5 channel amp?

[Satvic]

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction...
What gear/adapter do I need to add 2 rear speakers and a sub in the back?

I got speakers 50RMS speakers upgraded on the front and waiting to order the sub-woofer with an and. Don't need a power hungry system as I use the 220 amp alternator to charge the house battery system ... just something clean and just enough volume on long trips ... My van has a basic integrated stereo with only 2 front speakers WIHTOUT FADE control .. I'd like my rear speakers louder to have a balanced sound with the fronts ... I can't see the FADE control on the sub for the rear outputs ... Any other way to make the rears louder without an EQ?

Someone suggested to:
1) use an Line Output converter to get the 2 speaker output into 2 channel Pre-amp outs ..
2) use an Equalizer to split the 2 channel signal into 5 channel signal outputs .. EQ should have FADE control to make the rears louder..
3) connect the 5 outs from the equalizer to a 5 channel amp...
4) use component speakers in the front, move the front 50 RMS speakers to the rear

Problem I have no room on the dash to add an equilizer .. and most affordable ones come with silly bright LEDs ...

Also, seems to be so many devices to do a simple task ... I was hoping for a more streamlined/elegant affordable solution.

I've replaced stereos / speakers before but never worked with an amp setup ..


Thanks so much!


D

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I've replaced stereos / speakers before but never worked with an amp setup ..

You could use a 4 channel amplifier with high speaker level imputs. That will eliminate the need for an loc. Two channels for the two rears, and two channels bridged for the sub. The amp should have separate gain controls for front and rear sets. This way you gain adjust the rear speakers to level with the fronts, and gain adjust the sub at a higher value.

 

[Satvic]

You could use a 4 channel amplifier with high speaker level imputs. That will eliminate the need for an loc. Two channels for the two rears, and two channels bridged for the sub. The amp should have separate gain controls for front and rear sets. This way you gain adjust the rear speakers to level with the fronts, and gain adjust the sub at a higher value.

Thanks !!! The fronts still sound a bit muggy and get distorted at about 52% of the volume .. I was hoping to have a 5 channel amp that powers all aftermarket speakers and sub. ..

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Thanks !!! The fronts still sound a bit muggy and get distorted at about 52% of the volume .. I was hoping to have a 5 channel amp that powers all aftermarket speakers and sub. ..

I see. Then a 5 channel is perfect for your application. Good thing about a 5 channel is that you can get a remote bass knob to control the sub volume independently.

 

[Satvic]

I see. Then a 5 channel is perfect for your application. Good thing about a 5 channel is that you can get a remote bass knob to control the sub volume independently.

That's true! My only question I guess is .. . the active LOC has 1 full range out .. and 1 channel out for the sub. How do I get the 1 full range out to 4 speakers? do I use RCA splitters or the Equilizer to divide the input? the EQ also has a bass out for the sub but I think LOC bass out would be better/cleaner.

 

[Satvic]

Also, can I use 4Ohm speakers on each of 4 channels and a 2ohm Sub on it's own channel?

I'm looking at this amp: Soundstream PN5.640D Picasso Nano .. 60 watts x 4 chan (my speakers are 45-50RMS). + 200 watts for 4Ohm sub. I was hoping to install a 2Ohm sub so I could use a beefier 300W sub (350W RMS max per Amp)

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Also, can I use 4Ohm speakers on each of 4 channels and a 2ohm Sub on it's own channel?

I'm looking at this amp: Soundstream PN5.640D Picasso Nano .. 60 watts x 4 chan (my speakers are 45-50RMS). + 200 watts for 4Ohm sub. I was hoping to install a 2Ohm sub so I could use a beefier 300W sub (350W RMS max per Amp)

Just use the full range output from the LOC. The amp will split all the signals on it's own. Looking at that amp, I see it does not have the option of selecting 2/4 channel inputs. I do not know if it will do it automatically or if you need you supply all RCAs with signal. I would choose a different amp that clearly shows this option.
The 4 channels play independent of the 5th channel. So sub resistance does not have to mach the speaker's resistance.

 

[Satvic]

Just use the full range output from the LOC. The amp will split all the signals on it's own. Looking at that amp, I see it does not have the option of selecting 2/4 channel inputs. I do not know if it will do it automatically or if you need you supply all RCAs with signal. I would choose a different amp that clearly shows this option.
The 4 channels play independent of the 5th channel. So sub resistance does not have to mach the speaker's resistance.

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Thanks so much! If the amp splits 2 into5 .. does it allow to control the volume of the rear speakers?

I was trying to avoid an LOC since the amp can accept speaker inputs ... but after your message leaning towards a summing active multi channel LOC that can clean up the input and divide it into 5 preamps .. this will allow me to port this setup into any vehicle ..

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

this will allow me to port this setup into any vehicle ..

Active LOCs are great for oem radios. So many options and features that I think head units will be obsolete in the near future. Everything will be controlled from a phone or tablet.
Some active LOCs have fade control, but if not, you can adjust the gains on the amp itself to attenuate the fronts in relation to the rears.

 

[Satvic]

Controlled yes. However with everything is going cheaper / smaller I belive the sound reproduction part will remain the same & crappy. I'm thinking of porting it to a boat, truck etc.... most of these have a 2-4 speaker system.

I can't find a budget 5 channel amp with remote, 60W RMS per speaker, bridgable and so small!

This amp is the only 5 channel Class D amp under 500RMS, under $150 and with a lower power consumption (one 40 A fuse) ... I'm hoping it can deliver the clean sound I'm looking for without overtaxing my alternator ...

The curious thing is a decent active LOC with base restoration cost way more than a decent new head unit

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

belive the sound reproduction part will remain the same & crappy

The sound issue in your van is because the radio's low power is struggling to push said speakers. An amp will overcome this issue.

I'm hoping it can deliver the clean sound I'm looking for without overtaxing my alternator ...

There are now Class D amplifiers that play full range quite well. So if power consumption is a concern, look for this feature. Class D designs are power misers so as to not tax OEM charging systems.