72 Ranchero full SQ dream build

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TheRockman

CarAudio.com Newbie
hello, im new here and been trying to figure out what to do with my 72 rancheros audio design. 4k budget
i want an absolute listening experience inside this old beast of a car.
theres a massive space behind the seats that goes all the way under the bed as well. easily room to run a downfacing 12" for what ive theorized to be the subsonic range to really shake me and a couple front facing 8" subs, with still room behind the actual seat for any rear stage you can possibly need.
upfront ive got massive length doors that look easy to deaden and build to my hearts content. A and B -pillars can run tweets and in center of dash is a 6x8 stock center channel, i was thinking two midwoofs at 3"

the car barely needs an alternator to run, so i can drop in a 240 amp and steal most of what it creates. also plenty of space for a second battery, so i can run everything on amps, as well as having space for all the active crossovers. i also have to strip the interior already, so it will get max sound deadening before the interior goes back in, not that theres much of an interior in these cars.

big question is................ what do i really need to run in a car like this? i want high fidelity fun!
 
The spare tire is behind the seats right?
For $4000 in that car I would suggest 2 10's and if your looking at a crossover then an active 2 way setup in the doors
However with what you want 4 k is not a lot of cash
Some of these prices are just ballpark
So 300-400 for an alt.
You would need an AGM battery to go with it $300
You want to do the better part of the car sound deadener that's like $500
Say another $200-300 in wires
On that car the Big 3 is a necessity.
HU- Something with at least 3 4volt pre outs $300-400
Now here is where you can save some money. If you can build and install a lot of this yourself then your ahead of the game.
Subs...In a small cab like that you don't need to run 2000 watt subs
Don't do the down facing thing. It works in home audio but seldom in cars. Some have pulled it off but for the most part the subs do not play up to their potential. Ported box is a must
A couple of 750-1000 watts subs should do just fine...If they are in the right box.
To be honest @ $159.00 each the Soundqubed HDS 3.2 Dual 4 10" is a really good deal
So is the American Bass XFL 1022 at $230 each
As for an Amp to run them The Sundown Audio SFB-2000 will do 2000watts @ 1 ohm and is less than $300
Front speakers are one of those things where everyone has different taste so it just depends on the user.
Generically I would say look at JBL or Infiniti Some of the midrange Hertz stuff is ok as well
As for an amp to run them I would keep it in the family and go with a Sundown (looks so purdy that way) The SFB 200.4 should work and its like $220.
Audio Control crossover, If you run an active setup then you need a decent one but you could always add it latter to save some money and just go passive until them Either way your looking at $300.
If you can build it your self you will save $300-400 on the sub box.
Its only like $100-$150 in materials.
I know you talked about 3" in the dash and stuff but if your running a budget then start small and add to it later.
6.5's with tweeters up front in a 2 seater car will be plenty loud.
 
The spare tire is behind the seats right?
For $4000 in that car I would suggest 2 10's and if your looking at a crossover then an active 2 way setup in the doors
However with what you want 4 k is not a lot of cash
Some of these prices are just ballpark
So 300-400 for an alt.
You would need an AGM battery to go with it $300
You want to do the better part of the car sound deadener that's like $500
Say another $200-300 in wires
On that car the Big 3 is a necessity.
HU- Something with at least 3 4volt pre outs $300-400
Now here is where you can save some money. If you can build and install a lot of this yourself then your ahead of the game.
Subs...In a small cab like that you don't need to run 2000 watt subs
Don't do the down facing thing. It works in home audio but seldom in cars. Some have pulled it off but for the most part the subs do not play up to their potential. Ported box is a must
A couple of 750-1000 watts subs should do just fine...If they are in the right box.
To be honest @ $159.00 each the Soundqubed HDS 3.2 Dual 4 10" is a really good deal
So is the American Bass XFL 1022 at $230 each
As for an Amp to run them The Sundown Audio SFB-2000 will do 2000watts @ 1 ohm and is less than $300
Front speakers are one of those things where everyone has different taste so it just depends on the user.
Generically I would say look at JBL or Infiniti Some of the midrange Hertz stuff is ok as well
As for an amp to run them I would keep it in the family and go with a Sundown (looks so purdy that way) The SFB 200.4 should work and its like $220.
Audio Control crossover, If you run an active setup then you need a decent one but you could always add it latter to save some money and just go passive until them Either way your looking at $300.
If you can build it your self you will save $300-400 on the sub box.
Its only like $100-$150 in materials.
I know you talked about 3" in the dash and stuff but if your running a budget then start small and add to it later.
6.5's with tweeters up front in a 2 seater car will be plenty loud.

No spare back there (if anything id mount mine in bed) and thats just for audio components not deadener or boxes, or alt/battery, ive got deadener and battery already. I deaden allot of things for sound.

I can build and install, ive got lots of tools... im actually starting to offer high quality outdoor audio system builds with my custom designed backyard designs for my clients. Ive built one for a shower/bathroom before and got the fever. So anything i do here is a write off as well.

I really appreciate your answers. So thorough!
What im seeing is i dont need to put in any 6.5” behind seat to create that rear stage ? Ive been reading lots about this when it comes to the active builds..... i want good stage, so it does confuse me.
I thought maybe i just do the less costly 3-way coaxial focal flax behind, and 2-way components in doors, then add there mids to the dash, if that even makes sense to do.

the idea for the down firing is in part a height problem where a 12” wont fit. Id really like to split the down lows with two different sized subs. The bigger guy running the stuff you can mostly only feel, and some punchy fast 8’s slamming the rest. So like a 20-60 range on the 12 and 55-250 on the 8’s. I dont know if thats the right split.
I wanna feel the rumble hard, still hear the music, and think white zombie speed of metal pounding fast.
 
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weird so apparently i made an account already to just make one sarcastic comment and then caraudio.com switched me over without me noticing. i like the name Lord Unicorn Fury better, i use it across tons of platforms.
 
You can go with the 3" in the front and the put speakers in the back but that was adding another amp and I was trying to keep the cost down.
The fill in the back is not necessary more so in a 2 seater, I personally would go 3 way in the doors before I put speakers behind me
I didn't know your cost was for equipment alone
If your putting center channel speakers in than you might want to go with a Digital Sound Processor (DSP) rather than the EQ
The Dayton DSP-408 should work it will allow you to run 4 channels in and 8 out.
That punchy sound your looking for is mid bass and a set of 6.5's in enclosures in the door will do it.
Most do fiberglass but it's $$$ you can make them flat out of MDF which is cheaper.
In order to do 12's and 8's you would have to do three separate boxes as they shouldn't share the same box
If you are stuck on the 12 then go for it, just don't do the down firing
If you can build your own box then I suggest hitting up a member on the Board named Buck
He sells box blueprints which he makes tailored to the space you have and the subs your using
He was under the weather for a while and might be a little backlogged but just be patient .
He designed my box.
Of course you will have to know what subs you are putting in
 
These were the 6.5's I had in my last car
They were great for mid bass
IMG-1187.jpg
 
These were the 6.5's I had in my last car
They were great for mid bass
IMG-1187.jpg
sweet man.
i got 6.5” infinitys in all 4 corners of my jag, they do punch nice. I can build whatever makes sense. Mdf might because the doors and panels in old stuffs flat so i can work with that easy.

i guess i should have led with a different budget number, i wanna build an experience, but maybe i dont need to buy the 3k dollar top end 3 way component set x2 to get there.

so 6.5” 3-way in door, with the mids in door custome pod/box, tweets in a pillars, 6.5” coaxials behind the seat? I can literally make a parcel shelf of sorts, whatever it needs. I used to buikd cabinets so i can construct them anyways.
I figured everything in seperate ported boxes, i can build them easy, but proper plans are the best ill hit him up.

is there a method i can apply for using a sub for subsonic frequencys and then another set for the rest of the range? Messing with my kappa 10’s shows me theres an entirely different movement downlow low low before you can hear it, and i want the rest of range clear after that. Deep rumbles and then the rest without taxing one speaker for all of it. Its maybe a nerdy idea but i like that as much as anything.

ill check out the dsp, thanks for thst, i definetly want to go that route.
 
i went to car toys messed around in audio room for a few hours and picked out my speaker components.
two 10" focal E225kx subs and the doors will be focal es 165 kx2 6.5 2 ways
thats all for now, it was quite impressive the difference in SQ between different brands and even Focal models. I dont think ill need anymore speakers based on what i heard and the small cab size. ill build custom pods/boxes in the doors and deaden the absolute falk out of this car.
 
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TheRockman

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