2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub

[JeeperVol]

This sub is very clean sounding.  What should I set both amps' crossovers at to get best blend?  At 80hz and +24 db currently.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

This sub is very clean sounding.  What should I set both amps' crossovers at to get best blend?  At 80hz and +24 db currently.

you need to see whats the lowest your midbass plays and set the high pass and low pass centered around that frequency

 

[JeeperVol]

you need to see whats the lowest your midbass plays and set the high pass and low pass centered around that frequency

70 hz for the 5.25" hertz components 

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

70 hz for the 5.25" hertz components 

it doesnt matter what they state, turn off the sub and play tracks with 80 hz tones, 70hz tones 60 hz tones or 100 hz tones and see where your midbass dies out at. that should be your point.  Whatever is on paper will usually not transfer to in vehicle. Every vehicle has different acoustics and every speaker/sub will behave differently in every vehicle.

 

[JeeperVol]

it doesnt matter what they state, turn off the sub and play tracks with 80 hz tones, 70hz tones 60 hz tones or 100 hz tones and see where your midbass dies out at. that should be your point.  Whatever is on paper will usually not transfer to in vehicle. Every vehicle has different acoustics and every speaker/sub will behave differently in every vehicle.

I just ramped up the volume a bit...this thing sounds unbelievable.  Annihilates my 8"...you were right!  I can feel it throughout my body at 75mph.  At what point is she broken in?

 

[fithwheel]

Imagine that someone who messes with car audio all the time was right about something lol 

I've never broke in a sub never did anything special just keep an eye on making sure the amp isn't clipping gain right  sub not getting too warm etc. Then just  use it for its intended purpose from there.

Did it come with special break in instructions? I'd be surprised if a dayton sub did anyway..

Great little sub isn't it?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

lol and you were going to spend 600-800 bucks on a "brand name"

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

winisd QTC of  around .707 if he used polyfill

I tried to use that for my Demon but gave up. Parameters checked out OK but when imputing the round port stuff it wouldn’t let me choose a port length at all. I would like to learn how to use it for future builds. 

I was looking at a Dayton 12 for a future build. 

To the OP, post a vid

 

[JeeperVol]

lol and you were going to spend 600-800 bucks on a "brand name"

Ran the 4awg ofc and got everything hooked up!  I will try and post a video later today.  I'm trying to better dial in the tune so the sub blends better with my front 5.25" components' mid bass and the sub doesnt sound as much like its in the rear open cargo area.  Does the slope of both amps need to be the same?   I currently have the hd750 amp at low pass 75hz and slope 24db with input sensitivity at 50% controlled by a bass knob up front.  The alpine pdr-50 4 channel is at high pass 75 hz 18 db slope with bass boost on and gain at 20% front components and gain at 5% rear(soundbar) coaxials.  Recommendations?  

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ran the 4awg ofc and got everything hooked up!  I will try and post a video later today.  I'm trying to better dial in the tune so the sub blends better with my front 5.25" components' mid bass and the sub doesnt sound as much like its in the rear open cargo area.  Does the slope of both amps need to be the same?   I currently have the hd750 amp at low pass 75hz and slope 24db with input sensitivity at 50% controlled by a bass knob up front.  The alpine pdr-50 4 channel is at high pass 75 hz 18 db slope with bass boost on and gain at 20% front components and gain at 5% rear(soundbar) coaxials.  Recommendations?  

i'm not in your car so I dont know what blend is best in your specific vehicle acoustics, just adjust till you feel it sounds best.  When you have a DSP, i'll have some more specific instructions.

 

[JeeperVol]

i'm not in your car so I dont know what blend is best in your specific vehicle acoustics, just adjust till you feel it sounds best.  When you have a DSP, i'll have some more specific instructions.

I'm trying to avoid spending more money on a dsp at this point and I also dont have a good spot to put it.  I've played the sub about 15 hrs now and am still having blending challenges.  I did what you recommend dialing in front 5.25" hertz components's mid bass using test tones on YouTube and set the high pass at 85hz on the alpine amp snd the slope isnt adjustable and is fixed at 12db.  

For the jl hd750 powering the rear facing sub, I have the low pass at 75hz and slope at 24db and the sub sounds fairly abrupt and localized.  I read that a sealed box naturally has a slope rolloff of 12db, so setting the amp slope to 24 db is actually putting the slope to 36db.  Is this true?  With the amp on 12 db, the sub sounds more musical but distorted a bit...so I'm going to try turning down the low pass lower to see if that helps.  With the sub amp at 12db, do I need to flip the polarity to be in phase?  Thanks again!

Here are pics of the finished product...It weighs 40lbs and I industrial strength velcro'd it on the bottom and side carpet and anchored it to the back seat mount with a 750 lb rated steel cable and (2) 1/8" eye bolts in the box rated at 300lbs ea.  The eye bolts are stronger than they look...should keep it pretty secure.  

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

I'm trying to avoid spending more money on a dsp at this point and I also dont have a good spot to put it. I've played the sub about 15 hrs now and am still having blending challenges. I did what you recommend dialing in front 5.25" hertz components's mid bass using test tones on YouTube and set the high pass at 85hz on the alpine amp snd the slope isnt adjustable and is fixed at 12db.

For the jl hd750 powering the rear facing sub, I have the low pass at 75hz and slope at 24db and the sub sounds fairly abrupt and localized. I read that a sealed box naturally has a slope rolloff of 12db, so setting the amp slope to 24 db is actually putting the slope to 36db. Is this true? With the amp on 12 db, the sub sounds more musical but distorted a bit...so I'm going to try turning down the low pass lower to see if that helps. With the sub amp at 12db, do I need to flip the polarity to be in phase? Thanks again!

Here are pics of the finished product...It weighs 40lbs and I industrial strength velcro'd it on the bottom and side carpet and anchored it to the back seat mount with a 750 lb rated steel cable and (2) 1/8" eye bolts in the box rated at 300lbs ea. The eye bolts are stronger than they look...should keep it pretty secure.

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In a single driver setup phase doesn't really matter, but the sub should be moving out and then in on punchy bass. You can verify this with a 9v battery on the subs wiring unplugged from the amp.

<$200 for a DSP is dirt cheap, and it sounds like you care a lot about how it sounds so it's hard to fathom how you spent all that money on an expensive jeep but won't drop $200 on a dsp. You're your own worst enemy lol at least you folded enough to listen to Jeff and made progress.

A 12db slope is fine. You need to look into rattles as the source of the localization, and not necessarily the bass. You need to also try different orientations, if you haven't already. You can keep the sub against the back seat, but face it to the side, place it on the driver side/middle/etc. There's a lot of personal time you have to put into changing settings to get what you want, no one on here can give you the answer you need without hearing the vehicle themselves.

 

[JeeperVol]

i'm not in your car so I dont know what blend is best in your specific vehicle acoustics, just adjust till you feel it sounds best. When you have a DSP, i'll have some more specific instructions.

Been enjoying my sub...the sub is flexing well amd starting to hit the grill when it hits decently hard. Do you have a little deeper grill that you can recommend?

 

[JeeperVol]

I saw that exact review and alpine was literally trying to get out of warrantying the sub for him and gave him BS excuses. Its not because of the grill, its because the glue failed at the triple joint where the spider and coil connects. Thats not something rubbing the surround against the grill would do at all, the most the rub would do is scratch the foam surround, not launch the whole coil through the spider which is from using way too big of a box while playing way too low of a bass note along with heavy clipping or maxed out gain settings. Literally pure user error. There's other reviews that said it works fine with their dayton sub. There's also this other reviews of two others with alpine type Rs as well and he had no issues. So that review you read is literally a noob that fked up his sub by abusing it and is pissed off that no one is warrantying his f**k up which is not covered by warranty.

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FYI...I checked the screws and everything is holding fine....this grill doesnt allow full excursion. I wouldn't recommend it for this Dayton sub