2015 Accord Coupe - factory audio upgrade

[llebcire]

2015 Accord Coupe - factory audio upgrade

Starting my audio upgrade on my 2015 Accord Coupe EXVL/Navi with “premium” sound.

I have the following objectives -

1. Significantly better sound quality
2. Minimal modifications for cosmetics and returning to stock
3. Install early so I can enjoy it

I’m re-using the equipment I had in my 2008 Accord EXVL Coupe and the install will be similar. With my last car, I finished the install in July of 2017 and traded for a G37x one month later in August - that could be considered a waste of time . I bought this car in May 2020 so I should have it for a while.

I will be retaining the factory head unit, stock locations and using the factory speaker wiring. In my opinion the gains from replacing the wiring are minimal and this isn’t a show car or ultimate SQ build. I feel that good install techniques will yield a respectable system that’s reliable, and while there are opportunities for performance gains I listen while driving so not an ideal environment.

System -
Source will be factory HU (ANC physically disabled)
Audiocontrol LCQ-1 LOC with EQ; ARC-2 remote bass level
Zapco ST-5XII 5 channel amp (100 x4 + 200 x1 @ 4ohms)
Morel Maximo 6 components - front doors, with passive crossovers
Factory speakers - rear deck
Alpine SWR-1222D 12” Type R in 0.9 cubic foot sealed enclosure @ 4 ohms

Misc. -
Kilmat 80 mil sound deadening
Fiberglass insulation in doors
Tesa tape and felt for rattles
4 ga. power/ground with 100 amp fuse under hood
Remove factory sub and mount amp under rear deck - shouldn’t have heat issues

One main difference between the 2008 and 2015 audio is how the factory amp is configured. In 08 it was a 5 channel amp using passive crossovers for the door, and I was able to wire the LCQ-1 with fade capabilities (I have children in the back often) so I could reduce the rears when I was alone. In 2015 the amp is active so I need to wire the LOC differently. I will still have remote bass control but won’t be able to fade - not the end of the world.

My goal is to get the bulk of the system installed now (before winter in IA) then make changes in the Spring. These changes may include adding a center channel (active or passive), moving to active front doors, and adding a DSP. I’m still reading but I see Dayton makes a DSP for $150 - I’m “old school” and we didn’t have DSP in the 90’s. Imaging was accomplished by installation techniques, sound padding, and center fill (front or rear) - I remember installing Audax tweeters in the back of rear view mirrors for imaging…

I have this next week off and plan on getting the system installed. Before taking time off I was going to start with the doors, using the factory amp to power the Morels initially, but I hope to get everything done this week.

I’ll post pics and videos along the way.

-Eric

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[llebcire]

Step one - front doors.


I have this week off however our kitchen remodel took more of the week than I expected so I wasn’t able to work on my car until yesterday. I spent about four hours treating the doors and adding Morel separates in place of the factory speakers. Immediately I noticed enhanced bass and mid-bass as well as my better overall audio - much fuller than factory. My next step will be to install and amp and sub, change crossovers to passive, and use the amp’s active crossover for the front doors as I assume they’re crossed over closer to 100 Hz from Honda.


Not shown in pics below - I used Honda speaker wire adapters for the mids, soldered a quick connect to the factory tweeter wires (didn’t cut OEM wires), used Tesla tape and adhesive backed felt anywhere I thought there could be a rattle (wires, clips, etc.) and applied minimal Kilmat to the plastic door panel.


I don’t have any pics/videos of the door removal - there are some great tutorials on YouTube if needed.


Here’s a pic of the door with the panel removed:

Here’s the factory CCF and moisture barrier removed:

Added Kilmat to the outer door skin and used on any wiring harness I thought might rattle:

This is the third car I’ve added fiberglass insulation to and the results are always amazing with enhanced bass response and noticeable reduction in outside noise (road, vehicle, etc.). The concept is turning a metal enclosure into more of a speaker enclosure. The why’s/how’s are from a user @keep_hope_alive with a thread on caraudio.com and a YouTube video discussing the treatment.


Fiberglass prepped:

Fiberglass installed:

I used Kilmat to close the openings in the the door:

Installed adapters I received from Crutchfield for my previous Accord:

Used CCF (weatherstripping) under the adapter and between the adapter and speaker:

Used Kilmat on the adapter:

 

[llebcire]

Finished door - I did reinstall the Honda door treatment as they’re using CCF:

I removed the factory tweeters and was able to press the Morel tweeters into place then secure with hot glue:

Tweeter installed - wasn’t able to use grills but I don’t feel they’re necessary:

-Eric