2014 Accord Sport SQ Build keep_hope_alive

What's your thoughts on using great stuff to fill in the voids?
It hardens and is useless as a sound absorber. This may be helpful for SPL where SQ and resonance is not a concern. Also, it's permanent and damaging. Never in my own cars.

The only time I used great stuff was an SPL astro van, between panel ribs and sheet metal to eliminate that rattle, but very sparingly.

My 2001 Accord build log had an IB wall, a place where we see expanding foam, I had a better solution and detailed that process in the log.

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Thanks for the answer! What would be a good thing to use in the headliner to help with headliner slap? If that makes any sense
I understand what you're talking about. I did an SPL build in a Silverado and it busted the tack welds between the support ribs and the roof itself and then that whole thing started the flap. The problem is that great stuff will not adhere those two panels so they will stay flat. He ended up selling that truck before I had a chance to go back in and experiment.

My plan was to go in with a birch roof secured to the support ribs. Before that I was going to J-B Weld the support ribs to the roof and then fill the void between the birch roof and the factory steel roof with insulation.

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the headliner itself is an easier fix and I would just stuff insulation between the headliner and the roof. I used the ultratouch Radiant Barrier for that purpose because it was easy to adhere and it had a consistent thickness.

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Yea I've seen a few videos on YouTube where those ribs on the roof busted and I'd like to take preventive measures b4 that happens to me as I'm doing my build right now on a tahoe and the plan is to run 4 nsv3 15s in a subs up port back box as soon as I can find two more subs if not might just have to run the two I have but either way I know it's gonna put some damage

 
Yea I've seen a few videos on YouTube where those ribs on the roof busted and I'd like to take preventive measures b4 that happens to me as I'm doing my build right now on a tahoe and the plan is to run 4 nsv3 15s in a subs up port back box as soon as I can find two more subs if not might just have to run the two I have but either way I know it's gonna put some damage
I would do a birch roof if I were in your position. Flex is lost energy.

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That's probably gonna be the way I go but gotta see if I can find a tutorial video on the proper way to do it as I have no idea. But anyways I don't want to crowd your thread with all my questions. Thank you for your time the info and for the educational videos and I'm sub'd in for the learning

 
The swap to a newer, premium touch screen is mostly done. Not all of the harnesses match up so it took some effort to coordinate the pin-out. For example, harness "F" is needed and requires 12V constant and ground.
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The whole point of the swap is to get a clean signal without DSP and HPF. Mission accomplished. The premium factory HU is made by Alpine and has a clean signal out of the HU (designed to feed an external amp which has DSP). At least Honda had one option that was reasonable.

 

---------- Post added at 09:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 PM ----------

 


with the premium touch screen does it supply more sound quality and higher volume and also can u play music through usb with it and does it allow for rca cable to be connected to it

 
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