2011 Tuscon Limited - No sound after ZAP

[rvgenomini]

I put my key in the ignition and turned half way to roll windows up. Heard a
ZAP.

No sound ever since. Radio unit still functions. Audio/sound fuses in panel
are good. Had battery drain issue (hopefully resolved with new battery the
other day).

One shop looked at the issue, said they found nothing.
Took to dealership, said they found nothing and quoted me $8600 to replace
radio unit.
Took to Car Toys, they said they can't diagnose a digital amplifier, removed
my amp to get model number so I can hunt a replacement.

So my question, will replacing my amp with another factory model be worth
my time and money, or are there other options?

 

[1aespinoza]

So my question, will replacing my amp with another factory model be worth
my time and money, or are there other options?

Replacing with OEM is the easiest and maybe most economic option.

 

[rvgenomini]

Replacing with OEM is the easiest and maybe most economic option.

Alright.

So you believe it's likely an amplifier issue to begin with?

 

[1aespinoza]

Alright.

So you believe it's likely an amplifier issue to begin with?

Not at all, could well be the radio or the fuses. You said you heard a pop. What location did the sound come from? Did all the speakers stop working at once? Were fuses checked with a multimeter?

 

[rvgenomini]

Not at all, could well be the radio or the fuses. You said you heard a pop. What location did the sound come from? Did all the speakers stop working at once? Were fuses checked with a multimeter?

The pop sounded like it came from the speakers.
They all stopped putting sound out after the noise.
I don't know if any of the shops inspected the fuses with a multimeter, I did a visual inspection of the fuses from the panel on the underside of the dash.

 

[1aespinoza]

The pop sounded like it came from the speakers.
They all stopped putting sound out after the noise.
I don't know if any of the shops inspected the fuses with a multimeter, I did a visual inspection of the fuses from the panel on the underside of the dash.

The next step would be to check the power and accessory power at the amplifier. This pinout will help with wire identification.

 

[rvgenomini]

The next step would be to check the power and accessory power at the amplifier. This pinout will help with wire identification.

I'll give this a shot and report back, thank you.

 

[rvgenomini]

The next step would be to check the power and accessory power at the amplifier. This pinout will help with wire identification.

Positive voltage for all three ports (1-3) in OFF and ON settings. The multimeter counts up from ~0 mv to 200 and then starts over, for everything.

I used the metal bolt on the attached car jack as my ground.

Does this suggest it's a radio unit issue?

 

[1aespinoza]

Positive voltage for all three ports (1-3) in OFF and ON settings. The multimeter counts up from ~0 mv to 200 and then starts over, for everything.

I used the metal bolt on the attached car jack as my ground.

Does this suggest it's a radio unit issue?

No, this voltage comes straight from the battery through a fuse. It should be a solid 12v DC at all times. Test the amplifier fuse on both sides to see if you get the same results. Test Pin7, that should be the amplifier turn on.

 

[1aespinoza]

I used the metal bolt on the attached car jack as my ground.

If this is not solid it will give erratic readings.

 

[rvgenomini]

No, this voltage comes straight from the battery through a fuse. It should be a solid 12v DC at all times. Test the amplifier fuse on both sides to see if you get the same results. Test Pin7, that should be the amplifier turn on.

Alright I'll take another look.

I'm using this multimeter, set to DCV:

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[rvgenomini]

No, this voltage comes straight from the battery through a fuse. It should be a solid 12v DC at all times. Test the amplifier fuse on both sides to see if you get the same results. Test Pin7, that should be the amplifier turn on.

Okay I was able to get steady 12V.

Ran each test twice.

OFF
1 - 12 V
2 - 12 V
3 - 12 V
7 - 0 V

ON
1 - 12 V
2 - 12 V
3 - 12 V
7 - 12 V

 

[1aespinoza]

Okay I was able to get steady 12V.

Ran each test twice.

OFF
1 - 12 V
2 - 12 V
3 - 12 V
7 - 0 V

ON
1 - 12 V
2 - 12 V
3 - 12 V
7 - 12 V

Awesome, so the amp is getting power and being triggered. Next test is to see if the radio is sending audio. For that you set the multimeter to AC volts. On connector C Pin6 is positive Pin12 is negative for front left door speaker. Expose the copper of those wires for testing, it is safer than touching the pins. Turn on the radio and see if you get any reading. If that works, then the amp is good.

 

[rvgenomini]

Awesome, so the amp is getting power and being triggered. Next test is to see if the radio is sending audio. For that you set the multimeter to AC volts. On connector C Pin6 is positive Pin12 is negative for front left door speaker. Expose the copper of those wires for testing, it is safer than touching the pins. Turn on the radio and see if you get any reading. If that works, then the amp is good.

I'll have to get to it tomorrow.

Out of curiosity, what exactly is the risk with looking at connector C the same way? Exposing the wires will be a huge pain so I'd love to not do that if possible. Thanks.

 

[1aespinoza]

I'll have to get to it tomorrow.

Out of curiosity, what exactly is the risk with looking at connector C the same way? Exposing the wires will be a huge pain so I'd love to not do that if possible. Thanks.

If while testing you accidently touch two pins on a live circuit, we could end up frying a working amplifier. Another way to test is to get access to one of the speakers and do it there. That will also allow you to test the speaker's resistance.