2008 Accord Coupe - factory upgrade

[llebcire]

My next step is to cover with black grill cloth and most people won't realize the grills aren't stock. I may redo in 1/8" later as they'll be lower profile but ultimately the only modification to the factory housing was 2 small holes. They aren't perfect as while I can typically come up with ingenious solutions to problems I wasn't blessed with expert craftsmanship - I rate them a B on one side and B+ on the other.

Question: when mounting the tweeter should I position the dome protector so that the side nearest me is open? Like a quarter turn clockwise? There's a few shots from a quick mock up below.

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I would've used polyfil instead of fiberglass....but whatever...lol..

This.

That stuff should be inside a house behind a wall. Not in a sub enclosure.

Tweeter pics/install looks really good tho. They'd look better and prob sound better if they were angled towards each other....just a little bit but that would require some more fab work.

 

[llebcire]

Decided to pull my rear deck, add more sound deadening and 1/4" CCF to help with any rattles or buzzes. It seems to have helped as the rear deck on 2008 Accords Coupes have a reputation for noise. It also seems to have impacted the sub output but I think that's in my head.

I've removed the factory sub for air flow but the sub output is still diminished by the rear seat and it's day and night when it's down. I thought about removing bracing from the rear seat but with leather it may not make a difference.

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[llebcire]

Spent yesterday and today working on my doors adding sound deadening and compressed fiberglass as per KHA's posts. Didn't want to spend the money on MLV and I may go back and seal off the large holes - time will tell what it will sound like.

Installed the Morel drivers with non-hardening modeling clay isolating the driver from the adapter from the door. When hot the clay was thinner than I anticipated and I'm concerned it may not handle the summer heat. I used 5/16" foam to seal the driver to the door panel like Honda did did and in a week or so I'm going to pull a panel to ensure its not interfering with the surround and check the clay.

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[llebcire]

Still need to finish the tweeter install and swap the factory crossovers for the Morels. I'll sit for a while before my final purchase of an indash EQ like the Audiocontrol Three.2.

Total.for the budget upgrade:

$249 from before (amp and sub)

$150 Morel Maximos (came with adapters that I used above and screwed through to sheet metal)

$35 in miscellaneous supplies

Total: $434 without labor.

-Eric

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[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

How and where are you tapping into the signal for the mids and highs?

 

[llebcire]

How and where are you tapping into the signal for the mids and highs?

Great question!

My Accord has the 7 speaker premium so it has balanced differential outputs that I'll use later driving a 5 channel amp just to the right of the glove box. I grabbed output for each channel from the amp to feed the high level inputs on the Zapco allowing me some flexibility from the HU for fade and sub control. As it was cold and I'm not convinced there's an audible diffence I did all my wiring at the factory amp soldering all connections instead of running new wires to the doors. The Zapco only has high level inputs for the mids and highs so I made a DIY LOC for the sub channel that's been working great. Plan is to eventually swap over to the low level from the HU using an EQ with balanced inputs.

-Eric

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[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

Ok..i have a 12 with the same head unit...i was going to grab the signal before the amp..driveaccord is a wealth of knowledge.

Found a guy to make a harness,front,rear,sub out...but balanced....and 127 bucks..lol..

 

[llebcire]

Ok..i have a 12 with the same head unit...i was going to grab the signal before the amp..driveaccord is a wealth of knowledge. Found a guy to make a harness,front,rear,sub out...but balanced....and 127 bucks..lol..

Interesting and I'm curious how he's making it as it should be more than just passive. There's a few threads I follow on driveaccord.net (same username) and it is a great resource. 2 in particular are where I learned the HU is balanced differential. I haven't found an easy (DIY) option to convert to standard pre amp and as I'd like an EQ I can get an Audiocontrol for not much more than your $127.

You may be aware but several amps already have balanced inputs, namely Kicker and JL Audio, allowing you to solder RCAs to the wires from the HU. Here's a pin out and the 2012 should be similar.

-Eric

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[llebcire]

This.
That stuff should be inside a house behind a wall. Not in a sub enclosure.

Tweeter pics/install looks really good tho. They'd look better and prob sound better if they were angled towards each other....just a little bit but that would require some more fab work.

Thank you!

I think that in an ideal situation I would get the tweeters closer to the midbass or at least angled better as you stated. These are crossed @ 3.5KHz (12db) which should help offset their placement slightly.

-Eric

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

View attachment 26556152View attachment 26556153

 

[llebcire]

View attachment 26556152View attachment 26556153

Very nice! Looks active and I'm impressed someone is doing this.

-Eric

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

Made by mercman....thats the 127 cable I was talking about.

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

In mine,was going to tap in before the factory amp,run a line driver off that to an alpine dsp,then on from there.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

Very nice! Looks active and I'm impressed someone is doing this.
-Eric

Yea. That's a great idea.

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