2005 Honda Accord low budget high SQ.

i2ain2thunder
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
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st paul, mn
Here's what I'm thinking for equipment and installation materials:

MLV for Floor/road noise
Fiberglass insulation for inside door.
Butyl Dynamat for sound deadening/rigidity.
Closed cell weather stripping for Speaker mounting seal.
Ultratouch denim insulation for just about every pocket of the car that won't get wet.
Egg crate foam for shoring up big spaces
(combo of the above for the trunk)
High output 6 phase hairpin 240amp alternator
1" shorter racing or high performance fan belt
2 Optima YellowTop batteries
Big 3 & mono sub amp with 1/0 OFC
4 channel speaker amp with 4 Gauge OFC

Dash kit to maintain steering controls for radio and hvac.
Head unit: Eclipse CD 7100

Stock size speaker and install locations.

Here's the Equipment:
Sub Amp: Audio Technics 1200.1D
Subs: 10" Dayton Audio HO DVC 4 Ohm (paralleled to 1 Ohm)
Enclosure: Decware Wicked One (dual bandpass folded horn)
Speaker Amp: Kicker 250.4D
HU: Eclipse CD7100
Line Out Converter: AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter
Door Speakers: Hertz DSK 130.3 (DSK130.3) 5-1/4" Dieci Series Component Speaker System
Rear Deck Speakers: Eclipse SC6900 6x9 COmponent Speaker System
Alternator JS Alternators: 240 amps 6 Phase Hairpin Powder Coated
Batteries: 2x Optima Yellowtop Up front in engine compartment, and in rear near amps run in parallel with 1/0.
 
Last edited:
Here's what I'm thinking for equipment and installation materials:

MLV for Floor/road noise
Fiberglass insulation for inside door.
Butyl Dynamat for sound deadening/rigidity.
Closed cell weather stripping for Speaker mounting seal.
Ultratouch denim insulation for just about every pocket of the car that won't get wet.
Egg crate foam for shoring up big spaces
(combo of the above for the trunk)
High output 6 phase hairpin 240amp alternator
1" shorter racing or high performance fan belt
2 Optima YellowTop batteries
Big 3 & mono sub amp with 1/0 OFC
4 channel speaker amp with 4 Gauge OFC

Stock HU to maintain steering wheel HVAC & Audio controls
Which means I'll be using a 6 channel Line Out converter with Gains per channel (3 output channels).
Along with an Auxillary Input adapter for USB or 3.5 mm headphone jack (which I'll connect a bluetooth receiver/transmitter.

Stock size speaker and install locations.

Here's the Equipment:
Sub Amp: Audio Technics 1200.1D
Subs: 10" Dayton Audio HO DVC 4 Ohm (paralleled to 1 Ohm)
Speaker Amp: Kicker 250.4D
HU: Stock
Line Out Converter: AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter
Door Speakers: Hertz DSK 130.3 (DSK130.3) 5-1/4" Dieci Series Component Speaker System
Rear Deck Speakers: Eclipse SC6900 6x9 COmponent Speaker System
Alternator JS Alternators: 240 amps 6 Phase Hairpin Powder Coated
Batteries: 2x Optima Yellowtop Up front in engine compartment, and in rear near amps run in parallel with 1/0.

Go with Group 31's or lithium batteries. Dump the Optima's.
 
Noted, I haven't learned much about lithium batteries. Sounds expensive, anything in the ballpark of $300?

My limited experience has led me to believe that $400 of lithium equals 4-6 agm batteries. Don't quote me on that. I'm 51 and just getting back into it legitimately. Right now I'm running 4k rms on a 95 amp alternator and two agm batteries.
 
Noted, I haven't learned much about lithium batteries. Sounds expensive, anything in the ballpark of $300?

Have you read up about our Honda Accords ELD problems? My understanding is that, as long as we keep our AC’s and lights on, the ALT will charge accordingly to the added load of the amps etc? Just bringing it up as I never knew when I had my system put in. Other wise, looks like a solid build!
 
Have you read up about our Honda Accords ELD problems? My understanding is that, as long as we keep our AC’s and lights on, the ALT will charge accordingly to the added load of the amps etc? Just bringing it up as I never knew when I had my system put in. Other wise, looks like a solid build!

How many total watts rms are you planning on running? And, what kind of bass are you wanting?
 
How many total watts rms are you planning on running? And, what kind of bass are you wanting?

Oh no, I sold almost everything I had lol. I was running 8 - 8” Pioneer TSM800 Pros along with 8 - 8 3.5 Pioneer tweeters. Had a 2K.4 & 800.4 & 3K.1 all Taramps but I sold everything. Actually in the process right now of trying to go for a SQ build, well an attempt at it 😂....A hell of a knowledge on this site that I just can’t trust shops in Hawai’i to fill me in on..
 
How many total watts rms are you planning on running? And, what kind of bass are you wanting?

But since you’re here, as far the ELD problem for Honda’s are concerned, my understanding is that if for say the OP puts in his HO ALT as long as he keeps his AC and Headlights on, that’s sort of the “lazy” way of bypassing the ELD issue?
 
But since you’re here, as far the ELD problem for Honda’s are concerned, my understanding is that if for say the OP puts in his HO ALT as long as he keeps his AC and Headlights on, that’s sort of the “lazy” way of bypassing the ELD issue?

Honestly, that **** is over my head. @Popwarbomie, @HSPLS, and @Jeffdachef would know that way better than me.
 
Sorry to say this wont be as SQ as you think. Because no matter what gear you have, the stock head unit will be your weak spot dragging everything into the mud. Signal is pretty much the most important part in a sound quality install right next to the install techniques. The stock head unit will always be a garbage cut and built in factory EQ'd signal to hell and an audio control LOC will just amplify that garbage now you get louder garbage. You need a dsp that can flatten the factory EQ and signal sum to get a full flat starting signal to your drivers.

Also when you do components you are at the mercy of the vehicle's acoustics and the built in and unchangeable crossover point of the passive crossover. So your SQ results when going passive is literally playing the lottery which is not a sustainable business model IMO.

Also you wont have much of a soundstage due to the rear speakers or any form of time correction and independent eq and level adjustments so pretty much its gonna be a loud and clean install vs an actual SQ oriented install
 
My brother's civic (2002 I think) does NOT charge higher with AC or lights on so this may not be the silver bullet, yes it does charge low. On the bright side, OP isn't using that much power so just a premium AGM battery under the hood should suffice. If you cared to really go big on electrical you'd want to just buy an internally regulated HO alternator but you're very limited for space under the hood so have reasonable expectations regardless of what bench numbers the seller quotes you.

Only thing I'll add to this is Q-logic makes fitted kick panels for at least my brother's gen Civic which are really great. Would highly recommend those for good imaging for your fronts.
 
Sorry to say this wont be as SQ as you think. Because no matter what gear you have, the stock head unit will be your weak spot dragging everything into the mud. Signal is pretty much the most important part in a sound quality install right next to the install techniques. The stock head unit will always be a garbage cut and built in factory EQ'd signal to hell and an audio control LOC will just amplify that garbage now you get louder garbage. You need a dsp that can flatten the factory EQ and signal sum to get a full flat starting signal to your drivers.

Also when you do components you are at the mercy of the vehicle's acoustics and the built in and unchangeable crossover point of the passive crossover. So your SQ results when going passive is literally playing the lottery which is not a sustainable business model IMO.

Also you wont have much of a soundstage due to the rear speakers or any form of time correction and independent eq and level adjustments so pretty much its gonna be a loud and clean install vs an actual SQ oriented install
It will be fine. One day later if my bank account feels more love i'll spend $430 on the dash mounting/wiring harness required to use an aftermarket HU and spend another 430$ on a double din. But for now I'm on a budget, and i dont really like the lloks of that kit, my model has wood trim that is nice looking that the kit replaces with plastic and gaps. Also not crazy about the controls on the kits for the HVAC.

I could look into a dsp, sorry i'm not familiar with the term, but a flatter eq sounds beneficial. Any budget suggestions on models?
 
My brother's civic (2002 I think) does NOT charge higher with AC or lights on so this may not be the silver bullet, yes it does charge low. On the bright side, OP isn't using that much power so just a premium AGM battery under the hood should suffice. If you cared to really go big on electrical you'd want to just buy an internally regulated HO alternator but you're very limited for space under the hood so have reasonable expectations regardless of what bench numbers the seller quotes you.

Only thing I'll add to this is Q-logic makes fitted kick panels for at least my brother's gen Civic which are really great. Would highly recommend those for good imaging for your fronts.
Newer gen hondas, you dont need to do the eld bypass anymore, just always keep your headlights on and you'll see full voltage

Thanks for the input much appreciated.
 
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i2ain2thunder

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