2003 Jetta build V4.1 AKA "Violently Expensive"

mat3833

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With that size box and that much cone area, I’d want to at least double that to 200 sq in . I know it’s easier said then done lol. With the enclosure I did, I wanted 120 sq in but had to settle on 117 to comprise and get the tuning I wanted. You are dealing with an enclosure that is double the size tho lol.
Yea, this enclosure is a bit counter-intuitive. Aparently these things love being in like 4 cubes with 4k on tap.

Port area is all about actual displacement. If you have a single 10 with 5mm of xmax, you don't need a big port, even in a huge box. The larger the box, the less port area you end up needing for a given displacement. Since I'm essentially 4x what drivers want and I'm not pushing them to Xmax, my efficient port size is surprisingly small.

I'm just regurgitating what smart people have said to me about this enclosure and these subs. I could be COMPLETELY wrong with the above statements.

Matt
 

djdilliodon!

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Yea, this enclosure is a bit counter-intuitive. Aparently these things love being in like 4 cubes with 4k on tap.

Port area is all about actual displacement. If you have a single 10 with 5mm of xmax, you don't need a big port, even in a huge box. The larger the box, the less port area you end up needing for a given displacement. Since I'm essentially 4x what drivers want and I'm not pushing them to Xmax, my efficient port size is surprisingly small.

I'm just regurgitating what smart people have said to me about this enclosure and these subs. I could be COMPLETELY wrong with the above statements.

Matt
Of course but I don’t give a shnit those 2 18’s are gonna move a ton of air 😂. If you make it where if it don’t work out it’s simply rebuilding a port then by all means start with the smaller design. If it’s a one and done setup I’d be paranoid of it making a ton of noise. Those 18’s on 3k believe me are gonna be moving a lot of air! Do you have a drawing that shows the entire box along with the port?
 

mat3833

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Of course but I don’t give a shnit those 2 18’s are gonna move a ton of air 😂. If you make it where if it don’t work out it’s simply rebuilding a port then by all means start with the smaller design. If it’s a one and done setup I’d be paranoid of it making a ton of noise. Those 18’s on 3k believe me are gonna be moving a lot of air! Do you have a drawing that shows the entire box along with the port?
No, I don't have a drawing. The port will exit the rear and make a 90 degree turn up exiting through the rear deck. Since the rear of the enclosure is at an angle, there will be a little bit of port sticking into the enclosure, but it can be un-bolted and removed through the trunk and replaced with a block-off plate. Buck designed something for someone else that gave me the idea, and the decision to rip the seats out made it a no-brainer.

Also, I'm only getting close to Xmax down in the teens. Yea, they will move some air, but with the tuning so low the port wont be very excited during normal music. The subsonic would be set at 14hz and be a 6db slope.

Matt
 

mat3833

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So now I have a drawing. My fusion skills are rusty, but all the measurements check out. Total internal volume is 16.145 cubic feet before any displacements. I'll try to add the port location and subs, but I'm happy to have a model I can measure from finally! If anyone wants a fusion or whatever file to make it all pretty let me know, I'll figure out how to export it.

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Anyone know how to generate a cutsheet with angles and shit from this? Lol

Matt
 

mat3833

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OK, it's been really slow going since the last update. I still cannot find anyone to cut this enclosure so I'm about to figure some shit out for a temporary baffle to run them as a trunk baffle.

I got the new optical cable ran and new headunit installed, I'll post an update about that sometime this week. Most of the T/A has been done and most of the EQ work is done. It's not polished, but it's making me happy and the stage is pretty decent to me.

I went ahead and picked up a Smart 5, and I'm waiting on a single D4S LTO battery and a 240a alternator to show up in the mail. Next weekend I will hopefully get the car on jackstands, replace the oil pan, fix the front bumper, and get the new trunk baffle in place so I can figure out final amp mounting and new wire routing for the extra 0ga ground I need running to the alternator.

I'll be posting a sale thread with some stuff this week, and hopefully I'll find the free time to get some work done so I can get back on the road with some tunes.

Matt
 

djdilliodon!

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OK, it's been really slow going since the last update. I still cannot find anyone to cut this enclosure so I'm about to figure some shit out for a temporary baffle to run them as a trunk baffle.

I got the new optical cable ran and new headunit installed, I'll post an update about that sometime this week. Most of the T/A has been done and most of the EQ work is done. It's not polished, but it's making me happy and the stage is pretty decent to me.

I went ahead and picked up a Smart 5, and I'm waiting on a single D4S LTO battery and a 240a alternator to show up in the mail. Next weekend I will hopefully get the car on jackstands, replace the oil pan, fix the front bumper, and get the new trunk baffle in place so I can figure out final amp mounting and new wire routing for the extra 0ga ground I need running to the alternator.

I'll be posting a sale thread with some stuff this week, and hopefully I'll find the free time to get some work done so I can get back on the road with some tunes.

Matt
you can always break down and buy a table saw. Mine cost me $550 and is extremely accurate! If you don’t wanna deal with angles, you can always change those angles to inwards squares to make things easier. I’d imagine someone out of state to make the cuts and send it all to you would probably cost about what the table saw would possibly more with shipping! Something to consider.
 

mat3833

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you can always break down and buy a table saw. Mine cost me $550 and is extremely accurate! If you don’t wanna deal with angles, you can always change those angles to inwards squares to make things easier. I’d imagine someone out of state to make the cuts and send it all to you would probably cost about what the table saw would possibly more with shipping! Something to consider.
If I had room to store a table saw I would have bought one 6 months ago. Unfortunately I don't have the space. I'm about to commandeer the sawjet at work, I just have to teach it the proper miters after-hours and disconnect the coolant for the 4 programs I need to run. It won't be available for another 6 weeks or so and I'm tired of waiting so I'm going to hack up some MDF and make it work for now, lol.

Matt
 
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mat3833

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Micro-update.

Anarchy mids are out and a pair of Hertz ML 1800.3's are going in. The Anarchys will be used in my bedroom in some tapped horns down the road. I loved the ML 1650.3, and the 1800.3 is just a better version more suited to playing 60-400hz. They are also a fair bit more efficient than the Anarchys. They should be here in about a week.

Subs are on hold for the moment. I'm going to be rocking the good ol' 10w6 for some bass until I completely finish the front stage install/tuning and get the car back on the road. I have a gentleman in Orlando that wants to help me but before I can make the short trip to get dimensions and whatnot I need to finish the electrical, amp rack, and wire routing.

The kiddos are back in school so hopefully with all the s hool shopping and other chaos done with i can get back to working on this to get it buttoned up. Also working on getting some LTO and a new alternator.

Matt
 

mat3833

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Package day! Ups fucked off for a week and left my shit sitting in Kentucky all of last week. It didn't move until I called and asked questions yesterday morning...

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Got some grilles at the same time from Valicar. Should make it alot eaiser to make the doors look clean and they protect better than the factory hertz 2 bar crap. Hopefully I'll get to make some kind of progress this weekend. It's been disorder and chaos since the last update.

Matt
 

Bobbytwonames

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Alright, got the final enclosure size figured out I think. Don't have actual dimensions written down since I need to do a final test fit of the enclosure in the car and being Florida it started ******* pouring. BUT if it fits the external dimensions will be as follows.

Enclosure is 31.5 deep on top, 20.75deep on bottom, 51.5 wide at the front, 42.5 wide at the back, and 24.5 tall. Here's where it gets a bit rough on the dimensions since the enclosure isn't a rectangle.

The back is at an angle and works out to about 27-5/8, and to clear the wheel wells there is little triangle cut out from the 51.5 at the top and bottom in the rear. It's a 6.5" transition and goes from 51.5 down to 42.5. Works out to about 15.3 cubes on paper, but once I test fit the enclosure I'll get proper measurements and break out the trapezoidal, triangular, and rectangular prism calculators and figure out the actual internal volume.

After loosing a cube or so for sub and bracing, I'll be left with about 14 cubes net sealed or ported. The enclosure will start out sealed, but the rear will have a Cutout and a blanking plate where an external port can be bolted on to come up through the rear deck. I have no idea how much port area I need for this, but a 14" square port only needs to be 30" long to give me 30hz tuning and that's 196 square inches of port.

Any idea how much port area I need for 370 square inches of cone area and 31mm of xmax? I doubt I'll be able to reach Xmax on 3k with the pair of these, I don't trust winisd.


Matt
Sealed and ported won't be the same due to port displacement. I would say 12 - 14 sq. inches for your cubes. I think 170 - 200 sq. inches should work. I would lean towards the lower number.
 

mat3833

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Alright, I officially have a stereo again. Got the LTO bank in the car and the front battery bypassed, then I cobbled some wiring together with what I had to hook up the Smart 5. Legend 1800.3's are in the doors as well. I put in my 10w6 for temporary bass. I just got the new table saw installed and wired up at work so I'm probably going to build the enclosure myself once I get the chance.

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Things istill need to do:
1. Order more blue and black 1/0 so I can make the amp rack.
2. Get some kapton tape to insulate the top of the bank or make a cover of some kind.
3. Put in one of the pro 5100's in the baffle.
4. Build the enclosure.
And the big one to deal with:
5. Rebuild or replace the passenger front brake caliper.

I took the jetta to get gas down the road and unfortunately the passenger front brake caliper looks to be dragging. I drove maybe 2 miles total and the brake was smoking. The plan was to drive the car finally, but it looks like I have more shit to fix.

Matt
 

Bobbytwonames

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Alright, I officially have a stereo again. Got the LTO bank in the car and the front battery bypassed, then I cobbled some wiring together with what I had to hook up the Smart 5. Legend 1800.3's are in the doors as well. I put in my 10w6 for temporary bass. I just got the new table saw installed and wired up at work so I'm probably going to build the enclosure myself once I get the chance.

View attachment 42862 View attachment 42863

Things istill need to do:
1. Order more blue and black 1/0 so I can make the amp rack.
2. Get some kapton tape to insulate the top of the bank or make a cover of some kind.
3. Put in one of the pro 5100's in the baffle.
4. Build the enclosure.
And the big one to deal with:
5. Rebuild or replace the passenger front brake caliper.

I took the jetta to get gas down the road and unfortunately the passenger front brake caliper looks to be dragging. I drove maybe 2 miles total and the brake was smoking. The plan was to drive the car finally, but it looks like I have more shit to fix.

Matt
It might just be the brake pad. If not then just replace the caliper. It's fairly cheap and easy to do.
 

mat3833

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It might just be the brake pad. If not then just replace the caliper. It's fairly cheap and easy to do.
no, it's not just the pad Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and new rotors went on just before the car was parked. Yes there was rust buildup on the rotor, but a few quick stops knocked that right off. The caliper is definitely buggered.

Matt
 

Bobbytwonames

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no, it's not just the pad Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and new rotors went on just before the car was parked. Yes there was rust buildup on the rotor, but a few quick stops knocked that right off. The caliper is definitely buggered.

Matt
What is your next move? New rotor or just roll with it?
 

mat3833

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OK, here's the list of things I completed today:

got the brake fixed
Cleaned out the trunk, fixed the newly found leaking trunk seal, drained the inch of water in my spare tire well, and drilled more drainage holes.
Put in one of the 5100's
Did some tuning on the system as a whole
Did some voltage testing at idle

Charging voltage is 14.05v warm right now. Doing hard playing I was getting down to 14v flat and at a soft clip I was getting down to 13.95v. As soon as I moved on to a lower volume song, voltage popped back up to 14.03 or so. Sub wasnt even warm and the stage speakers can definitely take more.

Lithium is the way to go. I'm pulling close to 4000w at full tilt(smart 5 at 4 ohm and the Audison APF8.9 in 6ch mode 4x75w plus 2x260w) and my factory alternator is 90a. I'm going to try and get a clamp meter to measure how much power I'm pulling from the bank, but I've got 3 power wires comming off of it and that's a bit difficult to measure.

I will officially be driving the car again Monday. Still need to do more work on the car, but the longer it sits the more problems that seem to pop up so we are back to a driving work in progress.

Matt

Edit: fixed some numbers. Math is hard.
 
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