2 Amp Ground Question with Multiple Power Sources

[Woowoo32]

I am wanting to power my highs/mids amp via the primary front battery (Big 3 Completed) and power my mono amp with a secondary battery.
The secondary battery will be grounded directly to the frame with a 3/8" self-tapping bolt (1 wire).
Everything is run with 1/0 OFC wire.
Dont know if important but the secondary battery's power source will be wired directly to the alternator.

Would you recommend grounding the highs/mids amp to the secondary battery or should I make its own ground?
It would be simpler to ground to the secondary battery but want to do what is optimal.

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[HardofWhoring]

I highly doubt any self tapping bolt is going to be good enough to go through a frame, and it won't create threads when it does. They are a weak method when going through sheet metal. I would rethink that. It certainly won't have a secure connection that way. If anything, drill a hole through, and use a nut and bolt the size of the lug after you clean the area. That or either tap the hole for a real bolt, or have a stud welded on that you can use.

Why do you want to put them on separate batteries? What amp are you using on your mids and highs?

"Grounding the mids and highs to second battery?" Battery negative is not a ground. If you connect the amps ground to battery negative, then your battery and your amp would be going through the negative post to ground/(chassis). Your amps ground is going to end at the chassis, so the best way is the shortest way to the frame.

 

[Woowoo32]

I would drill a pilot hole prior to tapping in with the bolt but dont know that if changes your view on the effectiveness of doing this. My frame is fully boxed so unless I find a OEM bolt location close this would be my only solution to ground straight to frame.

ARC Audio 600x4 and my Mono amp is a Sundown SALT 1.5.

I would have secondary battery grounded to the frame with 1/0 OFC wire about 3' from the battery and then both amps grounded to the battery which would be about 2' from the battery.

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

I would drill a pilot hole prior to tapping in with the bolt but dont know that if changes your view on the effectiveness of doing this. My frame is fully boxed so unless I find a OEM bolt location close this would be my only solution to ground straight to frame.

ARC Audio 600x4 and my Mono amp is a Sundown SALT 1.5.

I would have secondary battery grounded to the frame with 1/0 OFC wire about 3' from the battery and then both amps grounded to the battery which would be about 2' from the battery.

Why don't you want to ground the amps to frame? Tried and true method. Bolts holding the seats is always an idea. Is there an advantage to wiring the mids and highs to a separate amp? Would be helpful if we knew what type of vehicle, so we could help identify ground options.

 

[Woowoo32]

I have a 2012 Ford F150 Platinum Crew Cab. I was saying that since my secondary battery would be grounded to the frame could I not ground my amps to the negative terminal of the battery?

Anyhow, after posting on other forums i got the feedback to first try to find better grounds for my current mono amp before installing a secondary battery as my power-to-amp combo is good enough to run my system off the stock charging system. I have 220a alternator which is a factory option with the tow package which is underrated per my conversation with Mechman Alternators. I also have done the BIG 3 to my Optima yellow top primary battery already. I have not done a resistance test on my current mono amp ground which is attached to the 2.5" seat lift. My issue is probably just my ground choice location.

If I am still having clipping lower than usual and/or headlights dipping alot when my system hits then i will install the secondary battery in parallel with the primary battery, fused at both ends, and hook my whole system up to the secondary battery.

I only have the gain turned halfway up to clipping and I am having the above issues. Clipping was tested using a handheld SMD.