01 Corvette and FL-LOC600

thadd677

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I want to retain the factory head unit and hook up an amp and sub to my 2001 Corvette Z06. So I bought the FL-LOC600 and removed the radio today. I'm totally stuck because I don't know which colored wire does what. I need to hook up the rear left and right speakers to this converter. Also, I don't know which color wire I need to cut and hook up for the amp turn on. I don't want to be cutting wires on this thing and messing things up. Thanks in advance.'

EDIT***

Ok, I found out which wires are for my rear speakers!!! So I cut those and connect them from the stock wiring harness to the converter correct? But then that means my rear speakers aren't connect to the harness anymore and aren't going to work? I'm confused.

Besides that, now do I just connect the remote amp turn on to the power antenna turn on???

 
You don't have to cut the speaker wires; just tap the line-out converter wires into them. The amp turn-on might work with the power antenna lead, or it might work only when the radio is on and not the CD. Another option is to hook up your amp turn-on to accessory power (though I'm not sure if you have an accessory power wire behind the radio in a 2001 Corvette).

 
Ok, I hooked everything up and my amp isn't turning on. I'm assuming its my amp turn on most likely. I need to get a hold of a volt meter so I can see. But right now the amp turn on is connected to the 12v battery which is an orange wire. I don't have accessory and I don't have power antenna. The only other option is 12v ignition wire but would this work?

Here is my setup - Look at 90 and newer

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/GM-Wiring.pdf

 
There are a few problems you might run into. If you have a power ant (pink wire) you can run a wire from there to the REMOTE spot on the amp. The only problem is if your power ANT goes down when you play the cd/cassett player your amp will turn off. If you do not have either of those then you will be ok. If you do have those and you ant goes down you are going to have to do 1 of a few things.

1. Patch into the yellow wire and run a piece to the remote port on the amp. The problem with this is your amp WILL ALWAYS BE ON WHEN YOUR IGNITION is on. It is not a bad thing, but some people do not like this.

2. You could get a switch (from auto parts store) and run a wire from the orange (constant hot to the switch to the remote area of the amp) to the amp and be able to turn the amp on and off as you please.

Sorry I typed most of this before I read all of your post. I am not trying to say anything but your DID run a wire to your battery, and then installed a ground wire for the amp right???

What you will need to do is get a volt meter and take a reading at your + and - at your amp. You should be getting 12 - 14.7 volts there. Then take a reading at the remote and - and you should be also getting 12 volts there. If you are not getting 12 volts in either of these places you will then know where to look.

Another option is this. Get the switch and put a small wire inside the + of the amp then put the other end to the switch. Then on the other output of the switch place a wire and run it to your remote conection. Seeing you should be close to your amp (small car) it will allow you to get the 12 volts to turn on the amp without having to remove anything, and should take only about 15 min to hook up.

 
Back to your first question. I would have tapped into the speaker wire instead of cutting anything. You can buy the connectore that allow you to splice a wire into another wire without cutting the wire.

But with what you did all you have to do is twist all 3 pieces of wire back together and put a wire nut on them and your back speakers and your line converter (FL-LOC600) will function as they should.

 
There are a few problems you might run into. If you have a power ant (pink wire) you can run a wire from there to the REMOTE spot on the amp. The only problem is if your power ANT goes down when you play the cd/cassett player your amp will turn off. If you do not have either of those then you will be ok. If you do have those and you ant goes down you are going to have to do 1 of a few things.
1. Patch into the yellow wire and run a piece to the remote port on the amp. The problem with this is your amp WILL ALWAYS BE ON WHEN YOUR IGNITION is on. It is not a bad thing, but some people do not like this.

2. You could get a switch (from auto parts store) and run a wire from the orange (constant hot to the switch to the remote area of the amp) to the amp and be able to turn the amp on and off as you please.

Sorry I typed most of this before I read all of your post. I am not trying to say anything but your DID run a wire to your battery, and then installed a ground wire for the amp right???

What you will need to do is get a volt meter and take a reading at your + and - at your amp. You should be getting 12 - 14.7 volts there. Then take a reading at the remote and - and you should be also getting 12 volts there. If you are not getting 12 volts in either of these places you will then know where to look.

Another option is this. Get the switch and put a small wire inside the + of the amp then put the other end to the switch. Then on the other output of the switch place a wire and run it to your remote conection. Seeing you should be close to your amp (small car) it will allow you to get the 12 volts to turn on the amp without having to remove anything, and should take only about 15 min to hook up.
Thanks a lot man, I ended up going to radioshack and getting a volt meter. Found out it was a BAD ground and that all my original hook ups were correct. So now I got the amp turn on connect to the 12v battery so yes I am getting constant power. I'll most likely hook up a switch if it isn't too complicated. Now I just gotta go test the subs. I'll be back!

PS- I did just tap into the wire, read somewhere else thats all I had to do so luckily I didn't cut.

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