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Sq. in. is the measurement of an area. They forgot to tell you the length of the port. For your round port the formula is > Volume = radius squared × 3.14 × length Radius of 2 is 1. So 1×1=1 then 1 × 3.14 = 3.14 Length is 3. So 3.14 × 3 = 9.42 So the round port is 9.42 cubic inches Their slot...

Will all this wiring be drilled from under the rack?

This is so random that I do not think anybody has ever heard of such an issue. To me it sounds as if you are dealing with two cameras. I know my radio has an on screen camera on button for the backup camera. Somewhere I read that I can use this feature to operate a forward facing camera that can...

My thinking is that dirt holds moisture. Moisture from Armorall, sweat, soda or any other thing that may have gotten behind the rubber cover. You see this issue in remote controls, key fobs, window regulator controls, et cetera. I do not think both units would be looking for a folder. Maybe if...

If both units had the same outcome, then the volume buttons on the steering wheel may be the issue. Try to open them for an inspection. They may have gotten dirty.

Does the car have steering wheel controls?

Lol, yeah I assume as much. But what if we could get him to cross over to the Autobots? He would be a great asset. That is the reason I have avoided all shots. I trust my own defenses more than an unknown vaccine. My thought was, "Cross that bridge when you get there. No Regerts."

Mouser Electronics.

Whoa whoa whoa, hold yer hosses there padner. I am 100% all four jabs and waiting on the 5th unvaccinated. I am pro-vaccine when it is proven. The lump of criticism on Trump's Warp Speed relied on the long term effect of the jab. I mean this is modified messenger ribonucleic acid we are talking...

You are correct on suspecting these claims. As proven by Ohm's Law, it takes power to make power. If the amp was 100% efficient, you would multiply that 60a fuse by 13.8v (car running) and you would get 828w RMS. But since no amp is 100% efficient, a rule of thumb is to multiply Amps by 10v. So...

I concur 100%. No vaccine should have been sent out, much less mandated. In this too I agree, but I do understand why he did it. The mounting pressure to provide relief, hope. Trump usually responds with the information given to him so I assume that is what he was promised. Ah I see. What I...

You missed the press breifing where Biden praised his team for expediting vaccine roll out. It was so long ago that I cannot recall the exact words. Unless he was lying, but I doubt it. Got it.

I noticed this praise when the Democrats "put out" the vaccine in record time. This I did not know. I thought Dems were in favor of the mask mandates.

So we agree that pushing the vaccine so early was wrong. How you extrapolate this from my comment is beyond me. I do favor opposing views for everyone should know all sides of a story and arrive at their own conclusion based on their beliefs and/or morals. There are alot of right wing media...

Yes, this is exactly what I was referring to. It was wishful thinking that a vaccine could be thoroughly "vetted" in that time frame. In that instance, I did agree with the Democrats. That is why I say it was "shoved" out the door. It was to allay the fear and panic of the public. A way to...

So from Jauary or February 2020 to when Democrats took office Pfizer had tested 86,000 patients?

Review video from when Trump announced his efforts to expedite a vaccine. Every major news outlet has a piece.

I have heard that the w6 has better SQ than the w7.

I have the 12w7 in a specified sealed box that sounds good, but then I got an 10w7 in a great deal. I opted to build ported using JL specs and hot diggity dog! The output is superior to the sealed 12w7 on the same power. I have been using this sub for a while and have no desire to swap it out...

As a PSA, you should go on Google Maps, look up their shop, and leave an honest review.

AFAIK it is the only one that did not have it's effectiveness proven before being shoved out the door. Hence the reason Democratic talking heads lambasted Trump when he said a deal was made to start vaccine distribution within a year.

Are you referring to the JD/JX series? The Slash series has no prefix. I think the goofy 3 Ohms subs were designed so that one would have to purchase these RIPS technology amps. When looking for an amp for my 12w7, I had to use either a [email protected] Ohm amp or the HD750/1. Since the sub is rated at...

That is because the Slash and HD series put out the same power from 1.5 to 4 Ohms. So no need to pay mind to sub resistance as long as they are within those parameters. You did not mention what type of box you are using on each set. Are the boxes built to each sub's specifications?

On a wedge, you add the tall and short heights, divide the answer by 2. Then multiply that by the area of the entire top panel. Now measure the "notches" and subtract from the overall size.

Gut pics remind me of the the old US Amps A series. Simple clean circuitry with amazing sonic clarity. Paired with a set of JBL T545s was quite a treat.

You have it wired correct while on mono. Try moving the mono switch on and off several times. It may have become dirty.

Would you take a better picture of the buttons? When you set a switch to mono I assume you have to bridge the left and right channels.

That sound reminds me of when the headphone jack or RCAs are not fully seated.

Try connecting your phone direct to the LOC via 3.5mm headphone repair cable. See if it plays good.

I suggest a fabric covered panel, then some wood trim on the lip of the box. Like trimming a door jamb.

TBH, the only times I have gotten popping issues, the culprit has been the amp. On one occassion it was a loud humming when I would close my door a bit too hard (everything would be off). One thing that vexed me was that I would unplug the RCAs and the popping would stop. That would lead me to...

Mold odor is unique.

I do not think you can run tweeters and mids in series if the tweeters have passive x-overs. The x-over would affect the mid alot. If he is having tweeter cut off, I would assume the tweeters are bad or without a proper x-over.

A reputable car detail shop can handle that in a few hours. Around here it is ~$150. Like jimi77 said, liberally silicone the area. It takes an hour to skin good and up to 72 hours to cure.

The one I used was the one that handled my accident claim. A friend had suspension components installed and aligned at Pueblo Tire. Next day driver's side wheel was misaligned. They refused a fix so I told him to call the attorney. Attorney told him to wait for him in the parking lot. He...

Guten tag.

Like winkychevelle said, the pair of 6.5s have more cone area than a single 8.

Talk to the original installer and ask that he fix the issue and pay for an interior detailer to handle the cleaning. Seems like he is willing. If not, there are attorneys that will talk to him on your behalf instead of going to litigation. The attorney's fee will come out of the business.

If the 8 is also an EVL, I would opt for the 6.5s. More cone area and more visually pleasing. As for the doors, make sure you get same impedance as the OEMs, and that the sensetivity is 90 db and above. Otherwise the headunit power will not suffice for a full sound.

I can attest to the power output of this sub. It hits hard and sounds deep. It only requires a 0.8 cubic foot box. On top of that, I was only using a 750 watts amp on two of these bad boys and they sounded awesome.