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  1. Oh I give up with you mate you just ain't bothering to make an effort to answer my question which was never about setting gains. i was seeking advice on how to work out by the stats on the spec sheet how far you can push your system or is it safe to stay at the rms and leave it at that. Chill out man. Take a break from the internet and this toxic superiority online persona you have. Go for a walk mate, clear your head. There's more to life than this. You can do better I know you can, I believe in you. We all do. You can do it!!! before you do, you better go wash that sand out of your minge and put a fresh tampon back in. you crazy little tyke. Such a fun guy. on a scale of none to all day, how many times do you talk about car audio online ? ps: the RC1 sound system will blow your set up out the water so calm down throwing out rms myths. Ok? Its weekend time so stop being mad at the world and go spend some money on a dirty hooker n have fun peace
  2. https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-amplifiers-hdp4/ Data for you https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-systems-energy-esk165_5/
  3. Jheez I was off by like 2 volts it was over a year ago and that works out at something like an extra 1-2db doesn't it? I was off by 10watts man. does it really matter?? Is 2volts worth of memory loss worth talking to me like I haven't a clue what I'm doing? maybe I should of mentioned I popped all them tweeters during the virgin weeks of the set up and getting greedy and trying to squeeze more power out. Then I got the decent mid level Hertz DP4 which has enough juice for anything I'm ever gonna put in. This is why I'm asking about the figures. Anyone who's got any common sense who's involved with music knows a gain isn't a volume knob. So by turning the gain and increasing voltage output of the amp, hits the crossover and when the tweeter components have all failed and the tweeters (but not the woofers) too then obviously I'm curious to understanding what the figures given in the manual relate to how the tweeter side of the signal is the first to pop with no warning, smells or distortion. you sound like you're into the car audio shit with what you've told me about your set up. You most likely have more knowledge than me but just telling me to listen for distortion when setting gains doesn't help the fact that things are popping before any distortion hits on the tops. So on that spec sheet for tweeters some of them numbers must me telling me something. Lets stop going round in circles about noob stuff. I've got a sub running well past it's rms and hits over its peak sometimes but sounds great. I just wanna figure out what's happening with the signal from the amp to cause tweeters advertised at 150rms, reduced by 2db at the cross over and set at 3.3k to pop with no prior warning after a year of working fine and not getting rinsed to death? Signal to noise % sensitivity etc dont these have a part to play and why isn't the crossover taking care of reducing any extra signal? That's it's job after all.
  4. I'll just stick to good old ohms law on these new speakers
  5. mr aggressive today ain't ya? Has ye fish died or something? The only time I've smelt burning is when the capacitors popped once. other than that the system sounded fine. Im running the woofers now at 220rms and they sound brilliant still
  6. Thanks for all that info 👍 with all that expert knowledge would you care to simply answer if the numbers given in manuals other than the rms and peak, are important to look at when gain setting?
  7. Is the sub 4ohm? the amp is 500watt rms @ 1.5ohms in the manual it says if you run 4ohms the amps rms is 250, if the sub is 500rms you've more than likely blew the amp
  8. Hey, ive been running Hertz esk 165.5 2 way components (120rms woofers/150rms tweeters) via the B input on the Hertz DP4 amp at 150rms set using ohms law at 26volts. the reason I use the B channel is the tops max out at 3,3k the max the tweeters can seem to handle. this was after running via A channel and going through 5 pairs of blown tweeters and 1 case of repairing blown capacitors on the crossovers. my tweeters have gone yet again so I'm upgrading to the more powerful Vibe Black Death V6 2 way components rated at 150rms / 420 max and they have tougher tweeters as well. My question is, to be safe, do you set gains to the rms or how much can you push the speakers before the tweeters pop? ive read the manuals and specs but I have no idea what the numbers mean other than rms. Are there other factors when setting gains by ohms law and osc scope when it comes to tweeters?
  9. Hi, from the UK, tried search engines for advice but all you get it adverts in return so thought I'd join a car audio forum and hopefully get some answers I need. im not heavily into the car audio scene and SPL shows etc I just appreciate my drum n bass sounding on point in the car. so catch me in the other sections asking noobish questions as I've discovered manuals don't come with answers lol peace