Jump to content

Blake Vandercar

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

  • Country

    United States
  1. Yup was considering getting a 75W amp for all those reasons. Ended up trying out the 100W Pioneer one you recommended. Sounds good so far, but I still definitely need EQing to boost the lows and/or reduce the highs— turning up the volume gives me the lows I want, so I know they’re *there*, which is good.. but the tweeters at that volume are unbearable. Also, bridging the inputs results in no tweeter hiss! So you were right. So I now know that the hiss is coming from somewhere before the amp in the signal chain— hopefully from the audiocontrol LOC and not the HU.. we’ll see if the Dayton DAP fixes that! Theres still a super high “dog whistle” frequency noise near 20k though. Barely noticeable, but could lead to like, subconscious headaches. At some point I’ll probably put a value-calculated capacitor across the tweeter to filter this out.
  2. Honda so nope, but the DSR1 does work as a normal DSP without the data link so that could be a mid-price option at $250 (done a lot of research today haha) Really, i should’ve predicted the auto-DSP on my amp wouldn’t satisfy my need to tweak things myself. I’m going to start off with the Dayton DSP and a new 4ch amp that doesn’t have the auto-DSP, and also raises the per-channel RMS from 45W to 60W to match my 60W rated speakers... If the setup doesn’t meet my expectations, that’s the beauty of free returns. Return, raise budget, check results, repeat... will report back.
  3. Thank you so much for your in-depth advice. I’ve thought about a BT amp or dongle or something, but I use USB input for my HU and like being able to change songs from the steering wheel, and see the track metadata on the screen. If only there was a USB splitter/“tap” that allowed me to control my phone and see this data on the HU, but send the audio signal somewhere else... but I haven’t seen any product like that. Let’s say I use that Dayton DSP, but not for the Bluetooth dongle reasons— what are reasons to get a ~$400 JL Fix DSP instead of that one for $150? Seems like it does the same thing (eq, time delay), minus a more-intuitive GUI on the PC. It has a high-level input so could also replace the AudioControl unit. I understand if you don’t know too much about that product though, doesn’t seem too popularly used...
  4. Fully deadened with actual Dynamat, both the exterior panel and the frame. And yep, foam baffles to prevent damage. I don't exactly know what you mean by this. Like this?
  5. Give me one reason why a 320 kbps track from an iphone isn't a quality test signal. It's not. Hiss is present with RCA cables unplugged from the amp, and also with LR inputs to the amp connected to each other as recommended by Crutchfield to diagnose his. Hiss is 100% from the amp or somewhere after it in the signal chain. It also does not change with volume, or with alternator speed. Using an aftermarket HU is not an option for me, my car would not integrate well with it. I would need a custom mounting plate, and would lose usage of many of the buttons on my dash. So I've used the Audiocontrol LOC, which I've read many, many times is the gold standard for LOCs, especially compared to passive LOCs of course. So I don't really know what you're getting at with saying that it causes problems. If you want to recommend a better solution for using the stock HU than the Audiocontrol LOC, then please, I'm listening. The Kicker Key 180.4 does have an automatic DSP that it uses a microphone to tune. It really makes a world of difference, especially in terms of EQ and timing/soundstage-- but something about the EQ it outputs isn't perfect. I think I'm going to try adding an EQ unit so I can also adjust the EQ manually. The Rockford Fosgate components have notoriously bright tweeters apparently. I think these might be preventing me from turning the volume up and giving more power to the 6.5" woofers-- my ears have always been more sensitive to treble-- in every audio system, I've always turned the treble way down. We'll see how this goes, but I'm still open to other suggestions from this thread.
  6. Head unit is stock, and I'm using an Audiocontrol LC7i line out converter rather than the amp's hi-level input... but as I stated, there is no improvement in SQ or hiss when I use an aux cord from my phone to the RCAs on the back of my amp, so I don't think the problem is anywhere in the audio signal up to the amp, but correct me if that's still a possibility. Door install should be good. Dynamat all over (exterior panel and covering frame holes), baffles used. I had to drill holes for the speakers, and it ended up being pretty tight, hopefully tightening the screws down didn't bend the shape of the speaker but visibly it looks fine from what i can tell. External crossover is in the door. Ground is less than 12" for everything-- large bolt that holds the seat down and has over 1/2" of threads contacting the car. 250W sub amp uses a different bolt on a different seat and has no problem.
  7. Basically, I think the lows are lacking on my 6.5" woofers, and the sound quality isn't at all what I was hoping for overall. In addition, there's a slight hiss from the tweeters, which I know always occurs at some level when no music is playing-- but you can hear it from 3 feet away which is a slight issue. Here's my setup. I'll leave out things such my subwoofer, and everything up to the signal path of the 4ch amplifier since using a different, non-HU input to the amp produces the same result: Front Speakers (5-60W RMS): Rockford Fosgate P165-SE Punch 6.5" Component Speaker System with External Crossover 4ch Amp: Kicker KEY180.4 4x45w 4-Ch Full-Range Smart Amp The speakers frequency range is 43 Hz to 20 kHz so although my sub does most of the work on the low end, I think my woofers should pick up some of the slack on the upper low end. I'm using terminal blocks like this in 2 locations in the output speaker signal chain: , as well as wire taps like this in 2 locations : is it possible these are decreasing sound quality at a significant level? I could replace them with wire nuts or solder, but would that make the world of difference? Also, I tried another amp, the Rockford Fosgate R300X4 Prime 4-Channel Amplifier, to isolate the problem to the amp-- but nope, no improvement in SQ.