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moniker

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  1. Well I just went ahead with a 1.25'' dowel. Nice tight fit. Initially, I was confused about how to attach it to the port wall, considering the exterior back-panel blocks screwing-access from the outside (ideally you'd install the dowel before the back panel). Didn't take long to figure out how to get it snugged from the inside with screw at 45d. I'm not so worried about the airspace it used. Put my head in the enclosure and hummed really low, and just that sounded incredibly rich and powerful! Also got a nice cut-out by running the jigsaw slower this time (no speed dial- all in the trigger squeeze on my cheapo jigg) @2RZ-FE Glad you think so! So I got the new sub today, set it in the box.. and man, that foam surround is beefy! I just might double up on the face. Actually, I might put an extra 1.25-ish on the face so the surround is not just flush, but slightly recessed. I really want to just get this thing in the car and listen to some music already, but crafting this enclosure has opened up a new way to zone-out and be creative. Pretty fun. Hard not to keep adding little touches.. So I've arrived at a point, where again, I have a couple of questions: Sub mounting hardware options: I want to be able to use this enclosure for other subs in the future. I think it'll sound good with many of the 10''s out there. With that, would you avoid just screwing it down, and add some kind of reusable, threaded inserts? But not every sub has the same hole pattern right? Hmm.. Sub wiring: Wire straight through the box to amp with smallest (and sealed) hole possible, or add those minimally invasive bolt-style terminals? Will not be using a traditional plastic terminal cup-thing!
  2. Good idea.. I may end up doing that for the sake of simplicity. I would like to do a double baffle- flush mount, but my jigsaw is a POS harbor frieght with no blade guide/roller wheel, and at this point I'm trying to keep things looking good. If I were to double baffle I would double towards the outside, not in, for no loss of airspace. @beak81champ Thanks for suggestion + kind words!
  3. Update.. First enclosure is going pretty alright. I actually i'm pretty damn happy with it. Bought four clamps, as advised, used them all. Used a few more screws than I think you vets would have. Everything sits flush on the base; for the lid a couple things are off a heavy-32nd, so will sand a little before the top goes on. It all seems to have a great seal, and I even hand sanded some bullnose on 3 of the port edges. All of this has been done with a circular saw and a corded drill, so with that, super happy with it. Waiting to get the sub to verify cut out before attaching the face and top. Does anybody think I need a brace of sorts near the sub? Thanks again!
  4. Copy. 1 5/8 is what I was thinking, thanks for the confirmation.
  5. So I said before that I could handle building the enclosure (my framing experience and tree work skills led me to believe this, 0 finish carpentry experience!), but after a failed attempt today and wasting more material than I can afford, I could certainly benefit from some advice on the procedure. I have my panels cut and am ready for assembly. This is the design I'm working with, from Soundqubed: No compressor or brad-nailer. Do have pilot-countersink bit and screws but that was kind of a pain. I've heard that you can just hand nail, and would like to go this route but I want to get a second opinion, and recommendation on nail style/size (working with 3/4 mdf). And if you recommend I stick with screws, what size? Soundqubed said #8 screw @ 2 1/4'', but that seems huge, no? My biggest headache is figuring out the stages of assembly. Someone recommended separating the port assembly from the sides, and to begin with attaching the sides to the bottom. If you look at the design that I'm using and are a NOOB like me, then that doesn't seem to straight-forward. Would you consider (B) (B) and (C) the sides, even though one of the B's is the Sub face? And would that make (D) (E) and (F) the 'port assembly'? I'm pretty unsure about how to fit the interior portions of this enclosure; which piece to install and when. Attaching the sides to the bottom is pretty simple; just keep rotating the piece so that you are screwing or nailing into a piece that is standing vertically, on edge. But how would you stabilize the interior portions while assembling, considering the box will be sitting on the back or sub face at that point, and the port pieces would be hanging horizontally in said configuration? Totally stumped. Thanks for any advice you guys may have to offer!
  6. Wasn't necessarily a bad shot at humor. I'm not very witty myself when it comes to understanding or making jokes. @THATpurpleKUSH I'd like to get the sundown sub, but the extra 40 bucks is more than I can afford now with so much time off work (the wrong sub box ate that up). I'm pretty stoked on car audio again, for the first time since high school.. not sure what happened there but I'm psyched about it. Will likely make a significant upgrade next year; charging system and audio components; comprehensive.
  7. I don't get it. So, maybe. What's the implication?
  8. Hello all, I have returned here to A) vent a little bit B) Showcase the absurdity in my car audio purchases thus far, especially the latest: Soundqubed with a big (and surprising) fail. 1) Bought a BOSS amp, discovered it only puts out less than half of stated RMS, returned after being enlighted by you all. Thank you. 2) Bought an enclosure that read ''1.5 cubes @ 34hz", told you guys here on the forum, y'all pointed out that it was likely only 0.7 cubes. Still waiting for the shipment so I can resell it at a loss on Craigslist or Offer-up. Burn. 3) Received shipment from Soundqubed Today. One 10'' 600 rms dvc sub. One S1-850 mono amp. Great sub reviews from people who ran the sub hard for months, maybe years for one particular review, & great amp dyno results on youtube. Sweet, right? Not so fast... Sub packaging: NO padding or protection on top (cone), and NO padding or protection on the bottom (magnet). I pick up the package and wonder why it feels so saggy, look underneath and there is a gaping hole in the bottom of the box, the magnet is poking through, exposed to the great outdoors. What - the - faaack. Handed the box back to the FedEx guy and signed the refuse-to-accept form. Amp packaging: paper padding on only 2 of the 4 sides (D+ for effort?), no padding or protection on the bottom of the package. Thin amp box (retail box with logos/imagery) to cardboard, that's it. No visual signs of damage, but considering the entire bottom of the amp had no reasonable protection from the handling during shipping, internal electronics could have taken some beatings.. maybe leading to premature amp failure at some point? I'd really like to know what you guys think about this one. Would you return the amp too? I'm pretty darned sure i'm going to. This is from the 'returns' section on their website, LOL: SERVICE RETURNS: Create an RMA. ****Pack the items(s) well to prevent damage during shipping****. Ship item(s) to us at the address above at your expense. There seems to be a number of satisfied Soundqubed customers out there, so I'll speculate that they had a new employee in the shipping department, a ding-dong at that. Every damn time it's something. Why me, oh why. Thanks for listening🖐️
  9. Yeah, so I learned to consult this forum before I hit the 'confirm order' button.. pS just found this cut sheet generator tool, figure those who are not in the know should know! http://workshop-buddy.com/cut-optimization-calculator.html xj49er, I totally hi-jacked your thread. sorry-not sorry
  10. Great idea, and so simple..thank you! With $55 down the drain on the last box, and no income for another month (injury), the most reasonable choice is to wait, buy a $30 sheet of 3/4 birch and build the box. That's the plan.
  11. I have a good amount of experience, would say my skills are up to par. but my shoulder is broken/seperated.. so that's why iv'e been looking for a prefab between 1.25-1.5 cubes @ 34-36hz. I just failed to understand that you must separate port volume from the open space behind the sub : [ Soundqubed has this layout @35hz: If you know of another budget minded prefab I'd like to check it out... Otherwise will probably wait until I can build this box. Thank you for offering to help, much appreciated🙏
  12. And yeah, if what your measuring is the open square behind the sub(?), then I'd agree it looks small. Well shit another thing I didn't know that I needed to know. So... How might it sound compared to what you'd expect from that sub in a 1.5- 34hz enclosure?
  13. well faaack. what's a guy to do. I tried researching the shit out of everything. called everyone I made purchases from to verify specs, learn about unlisted specs. why is car audio industry so damn sloppy? I never once bought a 22'' bike frame to unbox it and find that it's actually an 18''.
  14. I just got this amp for my soundqubed hds2-10'' dual 4ohm: $100 https://soundqubed.com/product/s1-850/ Apparently, it will dyno as the specs read, given it has 14.4v. Dual 4 ohm wired in parallel (2ohm)> 625rms. Ported box @ 1.5 cubes, tuned @ 34hz. (Not easy to find a prefab with those specs!! Website is the manufacturer): $52 https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2395153/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046 Sub: $90 https://soundqubed.com/power-band-600-watts/ Thanks to some fine people here on the forum, I returned my Boss amp and learnt a couple things.
  15. RE boss amp, non-refundable said shop owner: Went back to the shop with the amp, with the understanding I'd receive store credit; walked through the front door and right away the cashier said "put it back on the same card?". Lol (laughing in my head, rather), "yes that'll be fine". Apparently, the owner hasn't explained the return policy to all of his floor people.
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