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Mooncatt

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  1. Mooncatt

    DC to AC adapter

    Why not use a regular 120V inverter, then plug the Alesis's 120V power supply into that? It looks like what you're wanting isn't available as an off the shelf product that I can find, so I'd just go with a regular inverter to avoid the hassle of building a 9V version.
  2. That does seem to be the case from what I'm seeing now too. If you go that route, I saw one common wire to splice was into the sunroof circuit at the fuse box if you don't have one. It's wired and powered already, which would give you a dedicated circuit instead of piggy backing. Just make sure to splice after the fuse so the radio is protected. You may also want to contact Scoche to verify the need to do that, though. According to the instruction sheet you linked earlier, you should be able to use the red wire from the chime box. As I said earlier about my G6, that does work for me (albeit a different brand adaptor), and the OEM radio also switches based on everything from the OEM harness. So I'm thinking the chime box may be defective and either not sensing the data signal that triggers the 12V+ output, or not able to turn that circuit on when receiving the signal. I'd also consider plugging the OEM radio back in just to verify everything still works in the factory harness.
  3. Whew! Lol. When you checked the ignition wire for voltage, where did you probe it? If it was at the radio plug, I'd completely unplug the harness from the radio, chime box, and car, and start checking for continuity along the red wire between the chime box and radio plug. I'd also check every wire between the chime box and the plug that connects to the car harness.
  4. Let's start at the beginning, because I was going back over this thread and I'm thinking you may have some wires connected wrong. When using wire harness adaptors, they follow an aftermarket color code standard that the aftermarket radios also use. You should always splice like colors together. So red from the radio should splice to red on the harness, even if it looks to be coming from the chime box. I have a G6 that uses a similar system, and my red ignition wire originated at the chime box. If I understand you right and you spliced the antenna wire from the radio into the pink wire of the adaptor, that may have been a data cable or a power wire meant to trigger the chime box that then sends power to the radio. From looking at other harnesses for your car, it looks like the pink wire is directly connected between two plugs, meaning you shouldn't mess with it. If you did splice into it, hopefully it didn't fry anything. If your car doesn't have a power antenna, then that wire should have any exposed copper covered and protected, left unused. So double check that you matched the wires correctly. Also, that Scoche kit came with several harnesses to use based on your vehicle. So double check that you're using the correct harness too.
  5. Mooncatt

    Designing the system. Need some help.

    From what I could tell, that head unit doesn't have a what you'd need for crossovers. The front and rear channels only have a high pass crossover, which wouldn't work with component speakers by themselves. You'd need another crossover to split the frequencies between the woofer and tweeter. Most component sets include one, so you'd just set the head unit crossover to block frequencies too low for the component woofer and the component crossover handles everything else. If you decide to add an amp (recommended for components), you could make this work without a dedicated component crossover if the amp has suitable crossovers built in. This would require some testing and adjustment to make sure the points are set correctly, and should be done before the tweeter is connected to prevent low frequency damage. I personally wouldn't rely on amp crossovers in this case, because components with their own crossover are already well matched and makes the install process easier. If you really want an active crossover setup for the front components, you'll either need a dedicated crossover, or look at something like a Pioneer head unit that has network mode. Pioneer's network mode changes the RCA outputs (so yes it would require an amp) from front/rear/sub to high/mid/sub that gives a bandpass crossover for the mids.
  6. I'm in the camp of using what you have now being ok. Try it. If you like it, you're not out any money. If you don't like it, you know what to do. If you go with a second or upgraded amp, done check the existing wiring first. If you didn't install oversized power and ground wires, and larger capacity fuses in case of later expansion, you may need to do that as well. If the wire isn't sized correctly for the total amount of power, it will make your output suffer at best. It could burn your car down at worst. If the main fuse isn't strong enough for the extra power, then you risk blowing it over and over. There's no real risk of damage there, just a time and money expense. For your crossover settings and such, it's personal preference, but I prefer using the settings on the head unit. You know exactly what you are changing and how, and may have more flexibility. Doing it on the amp, it's often just dials with a minimum and maximum mark with no indication of settings in between.
  7. I've worked in a quick lube place and installed many batteries over the years. I bought the battery from them and it had free installation, and I didn't feel like getting my hands dirty that day. So what's your point?
  8. That sort of thinking is why an audio shop blew one of my subs years ago. I was having them install a new battery, but they decided to start fiddling with my amp gain. I had it turned down to avoid over driving the sub, but they turned it up just below clipping, then blew the sub while testing. Thankfully they gave me a replacement and owned up to their mistake, but it's stuff like that that has me play it safe when giving advice.
  9. Great, now I'm hungry. Oh well, I'm not too concerned about that other guy. I think he's still upset I schooled him in another thread.
  10. Yes. I'll point out this key point of the OP's post. It's apparent I'm more conservative than you with advice to a newbie. Because I don't know him personally or his ability, it's safer in general for a beginner to wire as 8-ohm than 2-ohm in his situation. Turn the gain up until you get distortion, then back it off a little to make sure you only have a clean output. That is good enough for a beginner if he's willing to accept the loss of power. No need to get out the DMM and work the math to make sure you don't blow the sub when wired 2-ohm. I also listed the pro and con of both options so he can make a more informed decision that works best for him. There's always more than one way to skin these cats. I'm sorry you find that so hard to accept.
  11. Calls my advice terrible, then gives the exact same advice. Nice.
  12. Mooncatt

    New Headunit in Silverado

    Lucky. My '06 Pontiac G6 is 20ga, if that. 😛
  13. Are you sure you're using the right kit? Looking up the gm3000fa returned only one result from Wal-Mart. Scoche's own website didn't even have a search result for it.doing a vehicle specific search on their site, it returned this needed for your car. https://www.scosche.com/lpgm35 Crutchfeild has some other options based on if you have the factory Pioneer setup and/or OnStar. So that's where I'd start looking.
  14. You could safely wire the coils in series for an 8 ohm load to the amp, which would likely get you around 300 watts RMS. The other option is to wire it in parallel for 2 ohm load, but you'd need to set the gains low enough to not over drive the sub. That could be risky and something I'd have an installer do in your shoes. There's also the third option of replacing the sub or amp to get something better matched.
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