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funk_drummer

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About funk_drummer

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  1. I just installed a 10" Dayton HO and I couldn't be happier.
  2. This is my first swing at any kind of install. My 300 has a 'decent' stock system, just lacked some bottom end. My goal was to add quality bass in a box that is easy to remove if needed. I didn't want to shake the earth. Just wanted to know it was there when the volume was low and feel it when it was up. Didn't want to break the bank. I started out wanting a 12" sub. After a lot of research and discussion, I decided a 10 would be better. There are so many driver and amp suppliers. I looked at so many, it came down to Infinity 1000W with the K600 amp or what I ended up with, Dayton HO 10" DVC and NVX VAD10001 amp with an NVX LOC. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. The sound is exactly what I wanted, it's clean and powerful. When it's low you still know it's there. The box is really small. Worked with a member here to model the driver based on what I like to listen to and all that. Said I needed around a .82 cu ft box tuned to 30 hz. This ended up being .86 I think the tune should be 30.5 if the tuning calculator is accurate. I wired the sub down to 2 ohm. The amp is rated 760 W at 2 ohm. Because everything is so small I thought maybe it wouldn't be enough and I'd end up building another. Nope. This little setup gets after it. I read about how to set the gain by ear so I downloaded a tone generator. Everyone said to set volume at 85% of max and turn up the gain until you hear the pitch change, then back it off. With the gain all the way down I could go get to about 60% volume before my head was shaking. Needless to say the sub has a lot more power than the stock system. I spent some time listening to music and messing with the gain and low pass filter. I'm running the gain at only about 25% with the LPF around 110hz. I have the subsonic filter set at half octave below my box tune, which is what I read is a good place to start, 22.5 hz. Bass boost on the amp is 0%. I installed the amp on the back of the seat. I'm not 100% sure I love that, but we'll see. I put nylon spacers under the amp to provide air flow under the amp to hopefully help with cooling. I feel like the power connections to the amp are a little flimsy, but seems to be OK. I used 100% copper 4 gauge wire for the power and ground. Battery is in the trunk so this install was really easy from that stand point. The inline fuse is a 90A. I think I covered all the bases. Everything works, no sparks or fire. There is a post in the box construction forum that covers the building of the box in more detail. Overall, this is exactly what I wanted...looks and sound. I'm not crazy about the bar speaker grill. I'm considering putting some sort of false face on the front with some spacers so I can install a true metal grill of some sort. We'll see. For what some might call a budget build, this turned out great.
  3. This is it installed. Very happy with how it came out.
  4. I have to start off by thanking the moderators of this site for this site and everyone who takes the time to post helpful info. I started my journey wanting a 12", but ended up going with a 10" and I'm incredibly happy with it. I ran this box today for a few hours today before I carpeted it. It's incredible, really amazing for such a small box. The entire time I was building it I was wondering if it would be enough and almost expecting that I'd need to do something else. After about an hour today...nope. What an amazing box and speaker. Box is 18.5x11.75x13 and about .85 cu ft inside with a 30x1x11.5 port, should be tuned to about 30.5hz. I used 3/4 birch. It is about $20 more a sheet, but so much lighter. I used half a sheet. I have enough wood to make another box of similar size. The entire box is 35.5 pounds, 15.5 of that is the driver. I used brad nails and glue to tack it together, then added the screws. The driver is a Dayton 10" HO DVC 4 ohm wired to 2 ohm. I used t-nuts for cap head hex screws and lock washer to secure the driver to the box. It's not perfect but it sounds way better than I expected and is exactly what I wanted. I'll post pics of it in the car tomorrow when the sun is up.
  5. I'm going to add bracing to the real thing. Your signature cracks me up!
  6. After an incredible journey of research, videos, reading, talking, searching...all the things, I have my enclosure designed. Huge shout out to fithwheel for help in this, among may others on this board. Here is my design for a Dayton 10" HO dual voice coil driver with an NVX 760W amp. Box size is .86 net before bracing and 'should' be tuned to 30.5 hz according to the Torres Tuning Calculator. Box is 18.5x11.75x13 and going in the trunk of a Chrysler 300. Port is 1x11.5x30. I guess I could make the box a little wider and not need the three wall port. I'll be posting build pics once it get moving on it.
  7. I only mentioned 1.5 cu ft for the Dayton because that's what the manufacturer suggested. If you have a way to run some mock ups, I'd totally appreciate it. I'm in no hurry. Open to the proper box size and $200 or less driver for mostly rock in the trunk of my car. Thanks so much!!
  8. I hear you saying I need to experiment myself. I wish I knew more about where to start. I kinda feel like finally making some decisions is the starting point. I’m happy to look at other drivers. That’s why I’m here, to pick the brains of those more knowledgeable than I.
  9. System update...I found a JX1000/1 locally, so that's going to be my amp. It can run 500W at 4 ohm or 1000W at 2 ohm. Was going between the Infinity 1000W and the Dayton 10" Reference HO-44. With the amp nailed down I think I'll spend the extra money for the Dayton. Just need a nice ported box design, 1.5 cu ft 13" tall and 15" deep...whatever length. Lots of questions about tuning. I've heard 30 to 38 for trunk mounted sub in a Chrysler 300. That's the last decision...so many decisions. Appreciate everyone's help.
  10. I wanted to keep the box at a size where I could fold down the rear seat to use the pass through if possible. That is a 2.04 cu ft box. I could go up to 3.4 cu ft if necessary. If going one way or the other gives me amazing bass I would consider that. I’m not needing too loud. A 10 or 12 would be a massive addition to the stock unit. I would be nice to be able to test some setups in my car.
  11. You’ve been pushing a 10 for me and I have to give it heavy consideration. I’m sure you know more about it than me. When I go around to local shops I’ve heard some 10 recommendations as well. I never know if they are trying to make a sale or if they mean it. When they play songs I like I’m not blown away. I think it’s because they said they are running too low of power. Even a W7 10 was not great. There are two songs, if you think a 10 will kill it for those, that works for me. The opening to Hotel California with the long bass notes. Second is Nightmare by Avenge Sevenfold. Two different songs so kind of a challenge. Looking for one sub to give me the business on both songs.
  12. Yea man, I appreciate what you are saying. I'll have someone design something for sure. Now, where is that dude?
  13. Driver might come down to the enclosure size. 1.36 is a lot different than 2.5 cuft. If I can get the same sound from a smaller box, I would prefer that.
  14. So basically any combination of drivers and amps I have will get me where I want to go in the right enclosure? I was going to build a sealed box and put a properly sized flared port in it. At least that's what I was going to do. I thought it was that simple, but maybe not. I'll search for the design guy. Really appreciate your help.
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