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  1. Zer0C00l

    LP filter

    LPF (or in this case referred to as LP) = low pass filter. whatever freq you set it to is where the crossover starts to cut the freq by either 12 or 24 db per octave not letting the frequencies above that number to go to that channel. e.g. you set it to 100, it'll, for all intents and purposes, cut everything 100 hz. It doesnt change anything on the fronts or rears, just the sub. They call it a "low pass" filter, because it lets frequencies below that number to pass. HPF is the same principle but with the opposite end of the freq band. As n2uadio said, play around with it, but going above 100 is not ideal for subwoofers
  2. Zer0C00l

    Honda Accord radio thump noise and cuts out

    i dont own one of these cars, but if it has a factory bose system, the factory amp could be experiencing some issues 8th generation accord factory amp location shown in this thread https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/51-8th-generation/66793-where-factory-amp-located-premium-audio.html
  3. Zer0C00l

    Help a noob..

    it not sounding as good as the blows (Bose) unit makes sense as blows spends time and money trying to engineer a sound that is not necessarily accurate, but IS pleasing to the ear. The hertz speakers shouldnt sound like theyre in a tube tho. Your issue could be a crossover or time alignment setting. In either event, the car audio shop should have probably stuck with replacing the tweeters in the a pillars as it would have brought the sound stage up and rounded out the frequency response quite a lot. One thing that blows(i will be referring to Bose as blows for the duration of this response )has in its advantage is that it has outboard amplifiers it utilizes instead of deck power. In addition to that, the stock speakers you replaced were specifically designed to run on the power from the stock deck and the stock deck wont run a pair upgraded speakers very well. Since you upgraded the deck , you should have a bump in power going to the speakers, but its still not ideal for non stock speakers. That being said, it shouldnt sound like its in a tunnel. You really should get an amp, and you should strongly consider getting some pillar tweeters. You honestly can get by with a inexpensive amp that will put out some real usable power and still be reliable. as far as tweeters, youre gonna be stuck with either upgrading to components that have an external passive crossover or, you could take advantage of this misfortune and go with an active crossover setup amplifying your tweeters and mid drivers separately. If you just get a 4 channel amp and a pair of tweeters and go active, itll literally blow your mind. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8604-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00A02PG0C https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-AN25Ti-4-Titanium-Neodymium/dp/B07DR6KNGF/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=dayton+tweeters&qid=1553696219&s=electronics&sr=1-17 parts are less than $150 and youll need some wiring, but those two will get you set to go
  4. Zer0C00l

    Voltage to amp

    if the car is running, youre going to want to see around 14.4 volts, if its off, 12.4. Bear in mind that you will lose some voltage over a length of cable, but the loss shouldnt be too much. Just do yourself a favor and get a voltage meter like this one and connect it to the positive terminal of your amp and put the display up by your deck. Calibrate it and you should never see below 12 volts on that meter when banging or youre risking damage to your amp
  5. Zer0C00l

    Voltage to amp

    42. and always bring a towel
  6. Zer0C00l

    Tidal App

    ive never used it, but from what ive read the sister company transfers is just playlists from other similar streaming services. but you are supposed to be able to download anything on there at hi bitrate