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Jimg

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  1. If I run one ten inch at 2.1 cf what would you tune the box at
  2. For the ones that have bought the Walmart blaupunkt subwofers what is your setup looking to do 3 tens sealed How much air space sealed would be recommended per sub
  3. lets start over car is a 2012 ford mustang with the factory motor craft gl-995 alternator from what I can find online is 156 amp looking at running pioneer gmd class D amplifiers one gmd 8704 100wx4 at 4ohm running a focal 5 1/4 component set on channels 1 and 2 ,,,, then using channels 3 and 4 on a separate set of focal tweeters one gmd 8704 100wx4 ran at 4 ohm bridged to a set of 6 1/2 focal mids from a component set,,, one pioneer gmd 9701 800 w x 1 ran at 2ohm this will put out 800 rms at 2ohm looking at a Dayton HO 12 inch 700w rms the other amplifiers I have looked at is using Orion XTR 1 Orion xtr 500.4 class A/B 90w x 4 1 Orion xtr 500.4 class A/B 90x x 4 1 orion xtr 1500.1 Class D at 2ohm 975w total watts will be around the same either way using Orion or pioneer can I run stock electrical or just do the big 3 to the electrical system ????? add battery to the trunk????? put in a ho alternator What should I do?
  4. When do you need to up grade your alternator looking at at running a total of around 1800 to 2000 wats class d amps
  5. I see in your equipment list you are using the gm series have you noticed any amp turn on pop or hiss issues, have you been satisfied with the sound you get with them
  6. trying to narrow down between these 2 amps Looking to run either a pioneer 8704 class D 100wX4 or a us acoustics Barbara ann class A/B 100w/x4 first initial thought amp 1 run one set of components focal iss 130 full active on channels 1,2,3,4 amp 2 channels 1,2 on a separate set of components focal iss165 then use channels 3,4 bridged to a set of 8inch subs I have they are 350w max power comparing the amps 1 barbara ann has a little better numbers on S/N ratio and THD % 2 pioneer is a lot smaller in size , I will have limited space with out getting crazy on an amp rack in the trunk,, size wise I can run 2 pioneer 8704 amps and a pioneer 9701 in about the same space as I can run the two of the us acoustics Barbara ann 3 Cost difference a little more for the us acoustics, but I don't mind paying the difference if it is worth it , better sound and probable better build 4 pioneer being class d will have lower amp requirement on the car, I really do not want to change out the factory alternator fi if don't have to. what would you go with?
  7. putting a set of component speakers in the doors , focal iss 130 component speakers, probably going to run a 100x4 amp at 4ohm just turn down the gain a little putting a 2nd set of focal iss165 components with the 6 1/2 in the lower part of the door with running the tweeters somewhere on the dash what size wire is recommended from running to the speakers from the amp the length of each wire run should be around 12-14 feet from the amp in the back of the trunk to the door speakers using ofc copper wire is 12g overkill , would 14g, or 16g be just fine.
  8. working on updating a 2012 mustang stereo system basic question how does the sound quality of new Class D amps sound on mid and High compared to old school AB amps will be running a Dayton dsp408 , don't know if I want to go full active or just use the crossovers in the tweeter I have a couple of Alpine 3527 amps power rating is 30wx4 into 4ohm , I purchased a set of focal iss130 and a set of focal iss165 that would be running on them I also a Linear power 2202 110w x2 into 4ohm I thought about running one 10 inch or one 8 inch in the trunk so the question is should I just use the old amps or start over with new amps. I am looking at pioneer GM-d or Soundqubed amps,,, new amps do have more power, but how do they sound compared to the old school AB amps
  9. Factory setup is the Shaker 500 so it has the two 8 inch subs in the door factory speaker is 5 x 7 in the top part of the door , and 5 x 7 in the rear deck I have narrowed it down to the subs running four 8 inch solobaric subs in the trunk reason for this, I already have them and it will only take about 1.5 cf total to run them , I still want some trunk space and not have to take out the sub box if I need to change a spare tire also not looking for HIGH SPL , just looking for a little thump without having to turn up the volume to high I am going to not use the rear deck speakers at all, going to just disconnect them. here is my question , crutchfield has focal iss 130 components on sale. I was going to replace the top door speakers with the components they also have the focal iss 165 on sale, I thought about replacing the lower door subs with them and playing with different locations to mount the tweeter from each set. I would have to make a mounting plate or bracket to fit the focal 6 3/4 in the lower door panel to replace the factory 8 inch sub, no big deal for me to make the mounting brackets I will be using a Dayton 408 DPS to help adjust sound as need be ,,, keep in mind that this unit only has 8 channels of output will not be using any of the factory amp power , I will be disconnecting the factory amp power , and will be running all new speaker wire to the speakers from the amps that I will install the setup below thinking on using a two channel amp to control the ISS 130 for the iss 165 I thought about using a 4 channel amp to be able to run the tweeters and the mids from the components on separate channels, that way I can use the DSP to make adjustments for tweeter locations I plan on adding sound deadening in the doors. then using the four 8 inch subs in the trunk would this setup work or should I ditch the idea of using two separate component sets? the other idea I was running in my mind was the iss 130 in the upper part of the door and just using a pair of 6 1/2 2wo way speakers in the lower door panel where the factory
  10. thanks for the help I think I am going to go with the four 8 inch, can always start over if it does not sound like it should Not really going for high SPL more for being able to hear a little thump with out having to turn up the factory speakers so high on the volume
  11. Been out of the car audio world for about 20 yrs son is turning 16 and bought him a used mustang 2012 model I have 4 kicker solobaric 8inch subs that I bought back in the day that is new in the box, never installed them. RMS max power is 350 per sub, Recommended box enclosure is .35 cf sealed box per sub from Kicker looking at wanting to install a wall with subs facing into the car,,, not rear mount them firing into the trunk space is limited, I want to be able to get to the spare tire and still have some usable trunk space. my question is would you go with the four 8 inch subs , or use 2 of the 8inch and run one 10 inch with them Amps still looking on what to get, really don't mind buying what is needed based on the subs that will be used.
  12. Factory depth I think is 3.2 inches. thinking about not going back with an 8 inch in the door would rather go with a component speaker setup. Has anyone built a template to do this?
  13. what dsp options will work for the factory shaker 500 in the 2012 mustang
  14. Not sure I am posting this in the correct forum section. Looking for ideas on replacing the door speakers in a 2012 ford mustang. Replacing the 8 inch speakers. has the shaker 500 factory system. Will be adding some subs in the back so not looking to keep the subs in the doors. But some midrange would be nice up front First problem the factory amp that runs the subs in the door. My first option was looking at running a audiocontrol lc2i using the back speaker wires to power up and send signal to. , run one amp to the door sub location and a 2nd amp for the subs in the trunk off the LC2i Second problem is the mounting depth being shallow in the door sub location. Thinking about going with a component speaker of some type. Possible building some type of mounting bracket to make them fit. What are the options that will work? in replacing the door 8in subs with something different.
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