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Everything posted by realflow100

  1. I cant move anything from where it is. landlord doesnt allow anything blocking easy access to the windows for "safety" reasons. so I cant move everything to where the bass hits the hardest because its right in front of the windows in the opposite corner of my room from where im sitting. my desk is really big. and moving just my subwoofers over there wont help anything because i'll still be in a null/cancellation spot so more power is my only option unless they change their rules about stuff being in front of the windows.
  2. like i set the low pass filter first. then set the bass boost to just over half so until the frequency that outputs the most power is around 40 to 50hz with the gain all the way down and turn up the gain so that the voltage around port tuning is set right on the amp so the subs get the most power around that frequency range. so lower than that it'll drop off in frequency like a subsonic filter preventing the subs from bottoming out? since the bass boost is on it'll drop in output below 40hz or so and the subs wont bottom out below that? if the amp doesnt have a subsonic filter can that work?
  3. I just want to ensure my subs get clean power. plus my room has really bad cancellation below 40hz or room gain around like 50hz in my sitting position so i need alot of power to hit the lows like below 40hz and i plan on upgrading to better subs eventually when I can too. below 40hz the bass just sounds like "listening" volume even at max volume. i can have a conversation over the bass if its below 40hz but around 45 to 50hz it sounds like i have my head inside the subwoofer port. I feel like i get more low deep bass just sitting my subwoofer on the floor and making the floor vibrate because it removes the cancellation lmao
  4. it was the cheapest I could find for the watts at the time. less than 100$ and the power supply for it was only 20$ free shipping on amazon. but moving up to close to 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms is much harder to do in home subwoofer audio and find a good deal on that is a good bargain.
  5. its definitely 34hz i tested it playing a sinewave sweep and stepping through the frequencies one by one and its dead on 34hz exactly. works fine! the MTX subs werent as good. has less xmax. cheaper terminals. more cheaply made. the magnet had sharp jagged raggedy edges on the inside edge of the pole piece and not aligned very well. and the cone was made of a really brittle plastic material to begin with. the center of both dustcaps cracked like 1 inch wide crack within a month or so of having them and i didnt even play them on much power. they had rubber surrounds but the look quite lumpy around the edges when i take the rubber gasket off. the DS18 seems pretty over-built. stitched surround. extra high roll surround and still having more cone area than the terminator subs. better magnet. even has a rubber boot on the magnet to protect it. much beefier push/spring terminals makes it super fast and easy to hook up to bare wire. and slightly more than twice the xmax rating of the terminator subs. very clean excursion too. less mechanical noise than the terminator subs. and with the new box i got they hit lower and cleaner too. and seem like they could take even more power if I got a more powerful amp. video of the DS18 sub playing. any distortion/clipping you hear is just from the camera mic not being able to handle the bass being so close to the subwoofer. nvm i fixed the youtube url being posted as a link instead of a video i just changed https to http at the beginning. no idea why it changed it for me.
  6. I'm not in a car im in home. everything setup in my bedroom I have no bass boost set. turned off completely. my box is ported tuned to 34hz and not sealed. it hits down to about 22hz strongly. my subs do not even get close to bottoming out without subsonic filter. even playing a 20hz sinewave at full volume my subs still have plenty of overhead excursion left. they arent even being stressed when playing music. they start dropping off in excursion below 20hz and above 20hz without a subsonic filter. only have low pass filter set to 40hz on both subs so they dont play any high frequencies. even though its tuned to 34hz. it sounds the loudest around 45 to 50hz so i set an EQ on my computer to account for that and reduce the bass around 40 to 100hz and reduce the peak at 45hz by 15dB and 50hz by 18dB to make it sound flatter and less boomy. my room really resonates loudly around 45 to 50hz it sounds like my head is in the subwoofer port when i stand across the room from my subs unless i have my EQ filter on my computer set to reduce the peak around there. I prefer SQ over SPL so it sounds really good the way its set up right now. i would need a subsonic filter if I got a more powerful amp for sure. the amp i plan on getting rockville dB14 comes with a subsonic filter already so i'll be using that if I give my subs more power.
  7. I got a new set of subs cause one of the terminator subs terminals broke when i was moving them to my new box I got tuned 34hz with 1.8 cubic feet per sub with separate chambers I got some DS18 SELECT 4ohm 12" subwoofers they hit harder and sound cleaner and get louder and deeper too. a fair bit stiffer suspension but they sound much better i gave them plenty of time to break in before putting them in the box. about 3 hours of 20 to 40hz tone sweeps to really work them in. I need a new more powerful amp though they can still be pushed more. underrated subwoofers. stitched surround. very tall roll surround with high cone area. and even protective rubber boot on the magnet. and they have more beefy terminals too. push/spring terminals. not like the crappy spade/blade terminals that the terminator subs had. they get loud and clean very clean excursion no mechanical noise at all.
  8. I play all kinds of music some even have below subsonic frequencies bass i love you has some frequencies below 10hz and some other songs have super deep bass like 20hz violation and subsonic world and stuff have bass below 20hz and a song called 17 hurts
  9. ive not done anything wrong just asking questions
  10. mine are definitely tuned to like 45 to 50hz or something really high. 25hz and below it gets quieter and stuff starts vibrating and jumping up and down a lot. and i want to cut down stuff below like 25hz so its not vibrating stuff so much and my subs look like they are about to jump out of the box at 14hz. they arent bottoming out but they look close to it. is there a way I could set up an EQ/filter subsonic filter on my pc instead if that will work better? i just have one amp going to my subs and another amp going to my stereo speakers hooked up with a Y headphone cable splitter to hook both up seperately but in the same headphone output on the front of my pc
  11. please dont assume i have a mental illness. its just a question. and thats just rude to say.
  12. realflow100

    DUAL subwoofer setup. one sub makes a weird ticking sound?

    Well you'd never guess what i did to fix it! I just took a sprits/spray bottle and filled it with just water. sprayed some all the way around on the spider so it was wet and damp. flexed the speaker a couple times and now its completely silent! Weirdest fix ever but interesting that it worked so well. I made sure not to get any water on the coil or excess water dripping into the magnetic gap. after i let it dry for a few minutes i played it and its clean sounding all the way to full excursion!
  13. one sub is making a ticking sound only when its moving inward and its definitely not coil rub for sure its not tinsel lead noise either if I push on it with my hand it doesnt feel scratchy or anything it feels identical to my other sub its just making a weird ticking noise at low to high excursion. it doesnt get any louder the louder I play it. it just changes with the frequency the sub is getting. its not very loud but its annoying at low-medium volume it sounds like its a tiny piece of plastic tapping on something inside the dust cap but theres nothing I can see anywhere around the spider or voice coil making any noise I dont know how to get rid of it. I tried running it free air at high excursion for a while but it barely made a difference it still does it. its really weird its done this since I got it out of the box. other than that the subs both hit hard and deep and sound good but the ticking noise is really annoying. its not air leak because it does it free air as well.
  14. realflow100

    DUAL subwoofer setup. one sub makes a weird ticking sound?

    i dont hear any other mechanical noise except the small ticking sound that sounds like its coming from the spider i think. the other sub has almost no mechanical noise at all except for the quiet air sounds coming out the venting at maximum excursion
  15. realflow100

    DUAL subwoofer setup. one sub makes a weird ticking sound?

    Im pretty sure it would instantly break if i did that. it probably just make a sharp loud pop noise and be dead within a half a second. and I dont want to deal with the smell that would make.
  16. realflow100

    DUAL subwoofer setup. one sub makes a weird ticking sound?

    thats just going to burn it up and ruin it im not going to do that!
  17. realflow100

    DUAL subwoofer setup. one sub makes a weird ticking sound?

    nope Ive felt all around the spider. its a single spider. and the spider venting is too small to get even a finger through. but its definitely on there all the way around. not loose anywhere. its glued on good all the way around and around the coil too it stops if i press my finger on a certain spot on the spider but that doesnt help anything because i cant just hold my finger there all the time. and its hard to find the exact spot since it seems to be a big area where I can put my finger on the spider and the noise stops but its nearer to the coil than the outer edge of the spider
  18. realflow100

    DUAL subwoofer setup. one sub makes a weird ticking sound?

    I am trying to save up money. I plan on getting a much better box and better subs with the new box tuned to around 30hz or so. it sounds like glue thats dry but has tackyness to it and its being "unsticked" repeatedly.
  19. realflow100

    DUAL subwoofer setup. one sub makes a weird ticking sound?

    the coil measures fine. it doesnt behave weird other than the ticking noise. the amp is working fine too. powers my other sub just fine on the same channel. if I move the cone in and out by hand i can hear the ticking only when the sub is moving inward. it doesnt get louder the louder I play the sub. once the ticking sound happens it's just audible but doesnt get louder the louder i play it. the sub can be reaching close to maximum excursion and the ticking sound isnt any louder than at low excursion. it doesnt sound anything like coil rub at all. if i press on the spider in a certain spot it stops for a moment then comes back ive measured the subs they are reading exactly the same. it sounds like its in one spot of the spider like a chunk of glue is stuck underneath it or something weird right near the voice coil and then the suspension stretches downward it makes a noise as the glue separates and touches the spider again?? but its not coming from the coil or very edge of the coil where it attaches to the spider. its coming from somewhere in the middle of the spider between inner and outer edges of the spider in one specific spot. i tried pinching the spider all along the different ribs/waves around that area and it helped a tiny bit but its still doing it.
  20. realflow100

    DUAL subwoofer setup. one sub makes a weird ticking sound?

    I'm not going to blow my subwoofer by doing something stupid like that. and I dont want to risk starting a fire either. my room has carpet.
  21. realflow100

    Subwoofer randomly fluctuates up in volume.

    could be a ground loop with the RCA connections thats intermittent or something if you have a bass/subwoofer knob maybe get it replaced it could be faulty ground loops can cause all sorts of issues. noise. volume changes randomly. buzzing. distortion. subwoofers and speakers popping.
  22. the cone material is really brittle and cracks easily when bent. I had to be careful with the razor when cutting out the circle slightly larger than the voice coil so the cracks didn't spread outward. the new dustcaps seem to be on pretty well from what I can tell. they aren't coming off without a fight. I used CRC rubber cement speaker adhesive to glue on the dustcaps. it came with the new dustcaps since theres no groove to put the new dustcaps sealed into I just aligned it as well as I could on both speakers and went around the edges with the rubber cement all the way around and let it dry for a while then applied a second layer of glue around the edges to help make sure its sealed well and not coming loose and fill in any gaps I used the old bowls and small 6v latnern style battery inside the bowls to weigh the dustcaps down while they were drying and curing
  23. I somehow discovered they both have a crack in the center of the cone/dustcap and they were making an annoying squeaking sound when playing at high excursion levels and decided the best way to fix it would be to get a razer blade. cut out a circle in the center just a little bigger than the voice coil to get rid of the cracked part of the plastic. and then hot glue a small plastic bowl over the logo and hot glue seal it all the way around for both subwoofers It seems to be working but I don't know if the subwoofers will be fine in the long run if the bowls get loose should I just buy some dust caps from online and glue those on instead will they work fine with a hole in the original dust cap covered up by a new dustcap? they look a little strange with a bowl hot glued to the front covering the entire logo hiding it underneath but they havent popped off yet or anything the logo is 3D part of the actual dust cap/cone right in the center. part of it cut out since i wanted to get rid of the crack and theres a hole in the center slightly bigger than the dust cap. the actual paper cone material behind the dustcap is fine not damaged I dont think its ideal but it sounds better than before.
  24. not really. and I dont know how long the hot glue would of held on with them either. it peeled off pretty easily after i got under the glue with a plastic spudger. came off pretty clean too. clean enough for the new glue to stick well.
  25. lmao they looked horrendous with the plastic bowls on them. they look way better and more professional now with the big dustcaps