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Everything posted by realflow100

  1. the cone material is really brittle and cracks easily when bent. I had to be careful with the razor when cutting out the circle slightly larger than the voice coil so the cracks didn't spread outward. the new dustcaps seem to be on pretty well from what I can tell. they aren't coming off without a fight. I used CRC rubber cement speaker adhesive to glue on the dustcaps. it came with the new dustcaps since theres no groove to put the new dustcaps sealed into I just aligned it as well as I could on both speakers and went around the edges with the rubber cement all the way around and let it dry for a while then applied a second layer of glue around the edges to help make sure its sealed well and not coming loose and fill in any gaps I used the old bowls and small 6v latnern style battery inside the bowls to weigh the dustcaps down while they were drying and curing
  2. I somehow discovered they both have a crack in the center of the cone/dustcap and they were making an annoying squeaking sound when playing at high excursion levels and decided the best way to fix it would be to get a razer blade. cut out a circle in the center just a little bigger than the voice coil to get rid of the cracked part of the plastic. and then hot glue a small plastic bowl over the logo and hot glue seal it all the way around for both subwoofers It seems to be working but I don't know if the subwoofers will be fine in the long run if the bowls get loose should I just buy some dust caps from online and glue those on instead will they work fine with a hole in the original dust cap covered up by a new dustcap? they look a little strange with a bowl hot glued to the front covering the entire logo hiding it underneath but they havent popped off yet or anything the logo is 3D part of the actual dust cap/cone right in the center. part of it cut out since i wanted to get rid of the crack and theres a hole in the center slightly bigger than the dust cap. the actual paper cone material behind the dustcap is fine not damaged I dont think its ideal but it sounds better than before.
  3. not really. and I dont know how long the hot glue would of held on with them either. it peeled off pretty easily after i got under the glue with a plastic spudger. came off pretty clean too. clean enough for the new glue to stick well.
  4. lmao they looked horrendous with the plastic bowls on them. they look way better and more professional now with the big dustcaps
  5. what does a landfill have to do with my subwoofers? im not throwing them away if I can still salvage them with a new dustcap
  6. just got the new dustcaps I ordered. only costed about 10$ for a pair of 4. came with glue removed the bowls cleanly and applied the new dustcaps and CRC rubberized Adhesive glue stuff and put something on the dustcaps to keep them weighted down evenly to make sure they cure solid I applied 3 layers of the glue so theres no chance of gaps or leaks. with an hour drying time before each layer. there was no groove for the new dustcaps. so i just centered them as best as i could and went around the edge with the glue making sure to not move the dustcap and keep it centered. i think it'll seep into the gap well enough to have a strong enough bond they look much better already
  7. What do you mean running low on power? and those look like decent subwoofers for the price. better built terminals and bigger better voice coil. I might save up and get them and I'm still going to need a new box but im going to have to save up for a while first. my box cant have a subwoofer screwed into it more than once because the material is so crumbly the screws get stripped out of the wood when i take a subwoofer out and screw it back in. so I have to rotate the subwoofer to make a new position for the screws to screw into fresh material so they dont strip out when screwing the subwoofer in. My amplifier can only handle two single 4-ohm subwoofers with all 4 channels bridged to act as two channels hooked to each subwoofer by the way. so the configuration has to be one single subwoofer rated dual voice coil 4 ohms. or two subwoofers with a single voice coil each at 4ohms
  8. mine are the ported model which goes for around 200-something on amazon right now. (port is not visible from the front. its on the right side) They are exactly the same size. not sure why one would be bigger than the other. could be just camera angle and lighting
  9. didnt have any. and the crack was falling apart when i touched it with my finger seems the plastic is really thin and flimsy in the center. but much thicker past that area and it was kinda hard to see exactly where the crack was. it went down into the 3D parts of the logo text so i dont know it i would of been able to get it down into there.
  10. realflow100

    Hertz HX250

    definitely sealed. but ported/vented can sound good too depending on its design. it'd have to be tuned quite low frequency say 20hz or less with a large box to really sound accurate and clean. but that can require a quite large enclosure to get tuned deep without tons of port noise or "chuffing" sounds it'd have similar effect of being sealed above the tuning frequency when tuned really deep. you get more output than a sealed box at all frequencies and much deeper rich sounding tight bass. but sealed can sound good too with a lot of power and the right sized enclosure. some stuffing in the box will also help prevent boomyness. dont suffocate the subs though. just enough to line the enclosure with a few inches of stuffing is plenty. depending on the type of stuffing and how large the subwoofers are/how many there is. a well made sealed or ported enclosure wont even need any stuffing when made from high quality materials and the right thickness to handle the subwoofers port level and excursion they wont sound boomy at all. cheaper enclosures made from cheaper materials might benefit from stuffing
  11. will this power supply be enough with a supercapacitor hooked up in parallel to power my 12v 1000W DUAL 4-channel XPR84D amplifier? (about 240W RMS per subwoofer. two 4 ohm subs with all 2x2 channels bridged to be stereo) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H3NWVG9 or can someone recommend me a better or cheaper option? this one I found has a variable potentiometer so that will be good to turn up the voltage to better power my amplifier.
  12. I'm only running 240W RMS per subwoofer right now with the amp Im running. gain is somewhere around the 10 o'clock position for both subwoofers. so probably getting anywhere from 60 to 150 watts RMS at peak per subwoofer. I found thats the safest spot to run them without cooking the voice coils. they reach thermal limit before they reach mechanical limit. even in free air. if I run them too hard. I think the subs are just not happy with a lot of power. possibly because the ported enclosure makes them not move as much as a sealed one since they have more excursion in a sealed enclosure. (I tested by stuffing the port with a small blanket) I guess i will just need to save up to get better subs and better box. whichever I can afford first. but for now these output plenty enough bass for me.
  13. they are rated 1000 watts RMS total combined and 2000 watts peak combined power and I'm only giving each subwoofer a maximum of 100 to 250 watts and I was playing some bass and I started to smell it so I turned it down. the dust caps I could feel some warmth to them and I could smell it was cooking a little. they didnt smoke and still seem to work fine but i'm worried they will blow out if I turn it up again. and the amplifier was not clipping or putting any distortion. The subwoofers were not moving a whole lot at the time. I know they can move more and not smell so I dont know if its a dead zone frequency for the box that makes the subwoofers get hot without flexing and so they get hot? the frequency is between 25 to 35hz and they can flex way more and not overheat but i'm not sure if they are damaged or if they just need to be broken in longer first? I am using an equalizer to balance the frequency response so the deep mid and high bass frequencies are similar volume from 30hz to 100hz since they are quite boomy at certain frequencies. Maybe my subwoofers are just too cheap? they were 100$ from amazon including the box. I had a look inside the box and it seemed alright but I changed the speaker terminal so they are not in parallel (my amplifier has 4 channels so I bridged two of them so each subwoofer gets a stereo signal and not mono.) also they are rated 4 ohms each so I have them wired up to 4 ohms bridged stereo on my amplifier (1000 watt amplifier. peak. and 240-260 watts RMS bridged stereo. so around 500 watts RMS total combined power for both subwoofers?)
  14. wiring is faulty. faulty ground. or the wire gauge is insufficiant. use thicker wire (lower gauge number) check every point of connection. especially make sure the ground to the vehicle has a good connection and your not running excessively long wire runs.
  15. I'll have to save up for a few months but I'll check them out once I get the chance. thanks
  16. check if subwoofer is dual voice coil. if it is. check that its not wired out of polarity on one side. if thats not it. check if the amplifier is bridged. its possible it might be bridged wrong. pay very close attention to the manual when bridging. and check that its wired exactly as it should be. otherwise check that the high level inputs are not wired wrong or out of polarity on one side or the other. doubly triply check that everything is in the correct polarity. if none of those are the problem thats really strange. check all other possibilities you might think is the source of the problem.
  17. So my only option is to save up 150$ just to buy the SMD detector thing? I noticed my subs clip at 10hz to 30hz but not around 40hz and above. (by listening with ears or using 1 ohm resistor and 100k resistor to make a voltage divider and connect to my audio input on my pc to record the waveform then play it back on headphones to listen for clipping. since thats my only way to know if im clipping right now and I know its not the best.)
  18. I dont want to diy build it myself I just want to buy it from amazon or some online site. can anyone link me a good one thats accurate that accurately indicates when the amplifier is clipping so I dont have any distortion going to my subs? and I just want a cheap simple one. not a 100$+ contraption that costs an arm and a leg. (looking at SMD distortion meter thing costs 150$. way too much for what I want to do)
  19. I have a 1000W buck converter set up at 14.8v with a current limit since the amplifier is rated at 14.8v and I limited the current to something reasonable so far its working fine no problems. battery isnt bubbling or making any noises. stone cold. and having the super capacitors hooked up really helps whenever the bass hits hard keeping the voltage up so the amplifier can get as much current as it needs.
  20. for a 12v SLA AGM battery what should the charging voltage be when using subwoofers. having the battery to take the load of the bass hits and the charger to keep it charged up whenever the bass isnt hitting hard. should the charging voltage be 13.8v? or 14.4? or somewhere around there? I dont want to overcharge the battery by keeping it up at 14.4v too long if thats unsafe. if it is safe to keep it at 14.4v when listening to music will that be fine? and should i turn it down to 13.8v when I wont be listening for a while?
  21. its a ported box. theres a vent on the right side of it that goes horizontally through it. its just not visible from the angle i took the photo https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C32KMRM this model
  22. No? that makes no sense. I dont live in russia?? im in south carolina orangeburg. a real place. No need for name calling either. I dont make troll posts! Did you even read what I typed and seen the image I posted?
  23. Im in the USA heres my subs and im not 16. I was born 1997 september 20th so im 21 as of now and whats wrong with super capacitors? they work great and prevent the power supply from cutting out from hard bass hits