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DRBOOM

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Everything posted by DRBOOM

  1. DRBOOM

    Out of the loop... Amp help

    Agree, keep away from Hifonics , MB Quart (new models) as they are made by MAXONICS...which took over such good brands which dished out quality products a few decades ago. I am note sure if the new Precision Power is any good as all as the company also makes the new Soundstream gear. I would also recommend looking at Phoenix Gold products. I have a Phoenix Gold RX1100.1 amp and it runs pretty well. With Pioneer, you cant go wrong as they have been selling stuff since the 1930's and although their gear changes over time to reflect the current market trend, they don't tend to print '00000' watts on their amp as they are pretty much what they claim to churn out. I think in most cases, for everyday driving a 200rms system with a 4 channel amp running components up front and a single subwoofer bridged on the rear channels would keep most road users happy and not destroy your ear drums as well. Also keep your eye open of some second hand amps as they will outlast the newer products. I have a Precision Power PC450 running my speakers and they still are sounding sweet in 2019. and I think they were released in the early 1990's. Old Kenwoods are also a good gear that was quality built, not sure about the newer items though. The old Rockford Fosgate amps were bullet proof performers as well, even the entry level ' series 1' models. Old Eclipse amps are also solid performers. Pic of EA3422 4 channel amp attached. PPI 2600 is a 2 channel amp but they are very good built and with good features.
  2. DRBOOM

    No sound on subwoofers

    ok, so its all installed with the subwoofer not playing. Few things to check here mate; check amplifier wiring, from battery, ground, remote wire check if the RCA is plugged to the amplifier; check if the amplifier is being switched on when your head unit is turned on; use a multimeter to check subwoofer box connection. if you don't have one, open the subwoofer to check it the speaker terminals are secure and connected use the multimeter to check your subwoofer resistance ( hope its not a fried voice coil) check amplifier is turning on, if not then check power, ground / rca connections; Finally if all seems to be connect on the trunk area, then you may have to gain access to the rear of the head unit to check all connections; check if the battery positive fuse / circuit breaker is not switched off or the fuse is blown check your ground from battery to the amplifier to the vehicle chassis. if all works then also check your RCA resistance, and speaker wire to the subwoofer as well. check remote wire that turns the amp on, could be broken or touching ground or just spliced during install so no signal is going to your subwoofer amp. Hope this helps you out mate!
  3. DRBOOM

    not enough bass

    Mate, sounds like your box is too small for ported design and tuned too high, If you don't have the space for ported, go seal the port opening and then give it a run. For ported design you have to go at least 2.5cu feet plus the port design for them 15's so you box is definitely too small for ported. Try with the sealed port and if you are still not happy then you may have to construct a new subwoofer box but know that 15s' would require a larger box so it can be tuned low. Its all the laws of physics, you cannot get loud low bass in a tiny space saving subwoofer box design, just will not cut the cheese!
  4. DRBOOM

    What happened to the internet?

    I say hold on to your old Car Audio & Electronics Magazines, Car Stereo magazines as they contained information that would be hard to find today. I understand that the trend has changed today and people buying car audio gear are not interested to know the THD or signal to noise ration of their gear. Those old magazine had testing and results published against other similar gear and it was so informative to read up on them regardless of its cosmetic looks. I suppose the current car audio buyers are just on interested on the gear and they google if they need to know if a product is worth buying before they make any purchase. The downside is, that any Joe Bloggs can purchase, abuse gear and then write it to be a crappy product without fully understand how to use the product. That is my issue with the internet with regards to product review.
  5. OK, this is my suggestion to you now. Upgrade your chassis ground to engine; Borrow a car battery from a friend, and give it a run in your car; if the problem persists then; check your cars head light point, could be poor ground / corrosion to the head light connections itself or its not properly fitted to the car headlight mechanism; buy / another set of HID replacement lights / try them out first to see if the problem persists; try out another subwoofer amplifier to see if the problem still persists; Are you sure you checked your car head unit, ground, Car battery ground, amplifier ground to see they are properly secured and tight? Let us know how you go mate!
  6. Hey mate, Thanks for the update. I suggest you disconnect your battery ground, then the positive one too, and get some sand paper and sand both terminals then wipe with dust cloth then connect your terminals back but do the positive one first, then the negative one last. I overlooked that issue as well, maybe that should fix your issue after you clean it up and apply some light grease over the terminals to avoid water / corrosion issues in future. Also check that your battery connections are tight as well. Cheers from Australia!
  7. Oh, that reading from the ground terminal is does not sound correct. You need to educate yourself on how to use a multimeter. Its your best friend in car audio issues. This is how you use your multimeter to see if you are getting a good reading with 12 v. Set your multimeter to 12v dc, not AC. probe the red one on the battery positive on your amplifier, and the black one on your negative one. Should read 12v. Ask a mate to start your car and keep the probes there to see the voltage drop. If it drops to a few volts then you have to check your grounding points on the amp, head unit and test it again. If the voltage still drops to a few volts then its time you replaced your battery. Hope this helps you out mate.
  8. Mate, in 99% of the case its usually a weak ground point that causes the issue. You will notice that stock battery ground wires are a puny 8 gauge, so with added load on the battery , the dimming in the lights is a result of voltage drop. As I stated, re-visit your ground wiring, from the head unit, amplifier and upgrade the stock ground by adding another ground wire using a truck ground wiring as they come in different sizes and this should eliminate your head light dimming issue.
  9. The four gauge power wiring should be more than adequate. I would also suggest to use a multimeter to get a reading of your battery condition as well as I don't know where you are and that cold weather also plays a toll on the battery regardless of their age mate. In theory, the car only needs 2 volts to start so if you are experiencing this issue, use a multimeter to probe on the terminals and let somebody start your car and if the voltage drops significantly, then it could be your battery issue here as 400 watts is not enough juice to cause this issue for you. Another factor we do not know is how often you drive your car as that can also be an issue if you don't drive it too often. I have a stock battery with 1200watts RMS system being run off a stock battery. I do drive daily , so my battery is kept charged by the alternator , like 200km / 124.2 miles per week and I travel to my remote work which is 400km / (248.5miles ) away every 6 weeks.
  10. DRBOOM

    High Input Question

    Hey mate! Thanks for raising your question. The option of either using the high to low speaker inputs or RCA inputs were implemented by car audio amplifier manufacturers so that the amp could be added to a 'stock' head unit that did not have provision of RCA's hence the idea. Later many amps came out without this option so it also was a cost cutting factor for the amp manufacturers but due to recent better stock sounding systems , the idea has again reappeared in newer amplifiers and some amplifiers available today uses the speaker wires to even turn the amp on and off when required which is a great idea as stock radios did not provide you the option for a remote turn on from the head unit and I am also in the market to buy one soon as I am running dual amps using a stock radio There is no need to use them unless integrating an external amplifier to a stock system to give it the extra volume and more 'thump' in your system but other then that, I would not use it. My current amplifier does not have this feature so I am using a high to low converter so I can then connect the RCA's that run to the back of the trunk area to connect to the speaker amplifier. Hope this has provided some insight for you when it comes to using high input connections to an amplifier that provides you this option mate! Attached photo of the old school Rockford Fosgate 4600X amplifier which give you the option to use the high level speaker inputs between the RCA inputs but this amp is so dated but had great sound quality as a 'series 1' entry level amplifier.
  11. Usually with 400 watts, you should not have this issue unless; your battery is on its way out; poor grounding points on battery and amplifier grounding points; typically, battery would last 2 - 3 years so if your battery is older, then it maybe be wise to replace the battery. check the CCA value of the battery and you can install a better rating battery as long as it fits in the designated space.
  12. I would suggest to also upgrade your amplifier ' ground' point and also check your cars battery ground point, or you can also add another ground point to the stock location as well. Note that in vehicles, power travels from NEGATIVE to positive hence the 12v negative ground printed in automotive 12v products.
  13. DRBOOM

    What sub is this? I have nooo idea!

    If I had a choice, go the Kicker definitely!
  14. DRBOOM

    Any vintage Kicker?

    Sorry mate, I am in Australia so would cost an arm and a leg to post.
  15. DRBOOM

    Any vintage Kicker?

    You mean some thing this old?????
  16. You have a ground loop issue mate!. Please check your grounds and re-tighten them. Also check if your speakers are not in contact with the vehicle chassis as well. if unsure, apply electrical tape / sound deadening around the door speakers if not done already. My money is its poor grounding point on the amp / vehicle chassis.
  17. DRBOOM

    What is legitimately the best 12 or 15 inch sub?

    You forgot to mention if you are chasing SQ or trying to make a mobile ground pounder! Based on that, determine your budget and the amount of trunk space you are willing to give up then go shopping. I have seen many people get Ground Zero or Sundown subwoofers only to run them with a puny amp which is a waste as some subwoofers are made to be driven hard and is larger ported boxes so determine what you are chasing then go and listen to some subwoofers. Lucky for us today, most subwoofers are designed to work well in small sealed boxes, which are entry to mid level gear but that would satisfy most generic consumer who are after a bit of 'thump' with their stock systems. Which ever direction you want to go, don't go spending heaps of money on expensive subs and run them with a no-name brand with many '000000' on it as you will damage your nice subwoofers over time due to clipping and distortion. Keep it real and you should have years of tunes in your ride.
  18. Nice choice mate, as long as the speakers fit, it would sound sweet. You're a great dad for doing that for him!
  19. Hey mate, thanks for sharing your issue here. Would be good to find out his stock speaker size before you go to buy the gear. I would recommend you purchase a pair of component speakers for the front stage (depending on the speaker size matching the stock speakers) Secondly, would be a good idea to purchase a 4 channel amplifier to run them or in future, he could bridge the rear channels to drive a single 4 ohm subwoofer. Other additional gear which you may need to purchase if you intend to buy an amplifier is a wiring kit, a 4 gauge is sufficient as a starting point. Lastly, you may also throw in some money for sound deadening the doors as it makes a huge difference despite which speakers you are running. Hope this is helpful to you mate!
  20. DRBOOM

    Whats wrong with my subs?

    Mate, I suppose you have gathered your options so you have decided to go local. They would start with the simple issue first but if its not the sub or the amp then they may be inclined to charge you some doe to access your head unit but I am sure you understand that concept Good luck with it mate, I do hope its just something minor that can be rectified. Let us know what the issue was once you are bumping!
  21. DRBOOM

    Whats wrong with my subs?

    Hey mate, Thanks for raising your issue here. Since you got it installed from a shop, you may still have warranty for the work done so best to take it down and let them sort out the issue for you. If you are curious about possible issue that may be causing the issue, I would thing of possible causes which are: faulty / loose subwoofer connection; possible loose subwoofer amplifier connection; possible loose ground connection; possible loose connections behind the head unit; possible faulty RCA cable running to the subwoofer amplifier; With car audio, connections do tend to loosen over time, and it could just as simple as the RCAs becoming loose behind the head unit. The shop will go through these possible causes starting from the sub and amp diagnosis first then if the issue remains, then it would be necessary to remove the head unit to pry out the rear connections for probable causes. Hope I have shed some light in your issue, and no doubt your installer would rectify the issue with you, and I would say , its probably a loose connection somewhere along the line, that is if you don't abuse your system and drive it to distortion where equipment failure is possible. If you are new to the scene, educate yourself in knowing the difference from sound and distortion so when you do hear distortion, you can turn your system down.
  22. Given the limited space you have, why not go IB? I have 2 of the Alpine bass lines and I have mine in a baffle facing towards the rear windshield. it has a better low end extension and given its QTS of 0.57, Its not doing too bad being fed 444rms per woofer.
  23. DRBOOM

    Subwoofer Box Question

    Mate, generally speaking, most sealed boxes would yield a 35hz tuning and if you want more 'thump then ported would be the way to go but tuning could be higher say 40 - 45hz, but don't forget your ride peaks around 40 - 60hz and most prefab boxes out there is tuned to these frequency since it will keep most people adding a subwoofer to their system a big grin with the result. There is always an option to tune lower by designing your own box and using programs such as WINISD to determine your subwoofer box performance before you actually go ahead with a custom box. Just remember, tuning a box higher will also steer you into the SPL category so your box will not sound too good with daily driving but its your choice and your music. You are free to create your subwoofer box and tune it low to your liking but try using say a 4 inch PVC plumbing pipe so you can always change the port if you wish to tune it higher or lower and then secure the port once you are satisfied with the end result. Good luck and let us know how you go with it mate!
  24. DRBOOM

    Pop when powers off

    The 'pop' noise is a ground loop caused by the voltage drop in your system when there is a surge in power, its pretty common in car audio issues. There a few ways to remedy your situation; Ground your RCA'S from the source unit - most head units have poor RCA grounding internally. One way to fix this issue is to ground your RCAs' back to the head unit chassis. The way you do it is , disconnect your RCA from head unit, splice some speaker wire and run a figure 8 around the RCA inputs of your head unit. then, apply solder to the figure 8 to hold its shape, and ground it to a point of the head unit. Use one of the screw points on the head unit to ground it. Insert your RCA's back to the source unit. Check your grounding points in your system, from head unit, amp ground distributer and the amp itself to ensure strong connection. Check or upgrade your car battery ground as well; It does not matter how many amps you are running in your ride, proper ground is very important, hence the 12v negative ground as current runs from NEGATIVE to positive terminal from your battery. Hope this would solve your issue mate!
  25. Lots of issues could be assumed here, if not sure, you can attach pics of the install, are you running external amps or just being powered from a head unit. Do you know how to use a multimeter as it will make your life easy if you are into DIY install???. Let us know more details as it hard to provide possible causes unless we know what components are involved here. You have to be patient with car audio as parts do tend to get loose so good installation is the main key when you are trying to achieve decent sound in an automotive environment, that's why soldering connections, property wire gauge and distributors are used. So is sound deadening and speaker placement. Cheers mate!
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