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DRBOOM last won the day on April 15

DRBOOM had the most liked content!


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  1. Like most other subwoofers made today with an exception of some European / US high end gear.

    Car amp and sub setup

    Agree you don't have to do that, but its a true fact if you run any amp in minimal load, you do stress it out more and shorten the life of the amplifier. I suggested this as the Lukas raised concerns but I agree that I don't understand his definition of amp getting hot. Amplifiers do that but it could also be there is not enough ventilation around the amp that is causing this issue, so that is another factor I did not touch up during my response. It could be a simple remedy as ensuring there is enough room around the amp so it does not warm up too much under normal use. Just trying to help a brother out but without any pics, just providing some guidance under the circumstance. Another issue could be that the amp is faulty so that is why I suggested to run it on 4 ohm load, just as a testing phase, not permanently. If the amp would get hot on a 4 ohm load, it could well be that the amp is faulty so Lukas can approach the shop to get a replacement. Lastly, I could not gather information if this amp is a class A/B or D class as the Class D amp would run more cooler given the larger power transistors / transformers so its always a concern if amps run hot under normal conditions and adequate ventilation around it.

    Car amp and sub setup

    Hey mate, Your amp does 900rms x 1 at 1 ohm load. Your subwoofer is dual 2 ohm so wired to 1 ohm, I presume. So with 900watts RMS. sure, any amp will go warm with any given power over time as that is what amps do when driven over a required time. I had a look at your amps specs as it does not indicate a thermal shut down, but with a reputable amp like Audison, I have no doubt if it does get too hot, it may go into protection until it temperature drops to normal operating levels. There are many medium to high end amps out there that have this feature. You should not be worried about the amp getting hot unless; you have poor grounding terminal either from the amp to chassis or just stock ground that has 8 gauge wire; you are running thinner power / ground wiring that is causing the amp to warm up as it requires more current draw; (Dangerous!!! check your amp manual if you are) check your 12v resistance with a multimeter to see you are getting a clean reading of the battery voltage from the amp to chassis; Upgrade to the big 3, to improve current efficiency; The subwoofer box you are using is a large port design that makes your subwoofer more efficient so it does not need that much power to operate at ear bleeding level; Or, your subwoofer box is too small so you are over-driving the subwoofer to get the required bass level; I would also suggest you take the subwoofer out and run it in a 4 ohm load to see if the problem persists, this will make the amplifier work less stressfully as its not always good to run an amplifier to its minimal load, sure you can do it but you are shortening the life of the amplifier by doing so. Another way of attaining the required boom is to add another subwoofer that will see the amp with 2 ohm load, that way you get 3db more and your amp runs cooler and you have just extended the life of your subwoofer amp. At normal operating level, any amp will get warm but not hot enough for you to fry an egg on top of it!!! If your current amp and subwoofer setup does not satisfy your bass needs to it may be time to upgrade to a larger amp and dual subwoofer setup as more cone area will provide more bass. Don't forget to upgrade your power wires if you do take this approach. You should not be concerned if you have the recommended power, ground wires and it does not get that hot that you only have a few seconds to put your hand on it before it gets burnt.

    Random Picture Thread

    Mate, as long as we have pesticides, and keep your yard clean, they will run to the bushes. If you think about it, we are surrounded by nature and different animals and insects we call as pests, BUT we learn to control them. Lots of farmers out here have guns on their property to kill, introduced foxes which came from England in boats. They are a pest here but you will not see them in the suburbs were people are dwelling. We also have rabbit problem so the farmers shoot them and use fur and you can buy rabbit meat, and crocodile meat in the shops. Crocs are expensive though, like $45.00 per kilo ( we use kilograms here as opposed to pounds you use) The red back spiders are everywhere but they are tiny and are not aggressive despite being dangerous to humans. Thankfully we have an antivenin so not many deaths occur. The Sydney Funnel Web spider is very aggressive and venomous so they are killed or captured and sent to hospitals to extract the venom to make the anti venom injection. Apart from that, we have lots of dangerous snakes so again, if you keep your yard neat, then they will avoid open areas. You will not see any in the suburbs as they avoid noise so that's why is good to 'bump' in Australia.
  5. Hey mate, better to ask question if you are not sure, I like people asking questions, as it provides an impression on how everyone thinks! Now, the amp you have does not have subsonic filter so if you are using a sealed box, it maybe be tuned at 35hz (as a good overall sound frequency starting point) so the subsonic filter can be used but will not have any issue with the subwoofer. The subsonic filter is a good prevention to your subwoofer, think of it as an insurance for your subwoofer and it outshines when you are using a ported box. Usually they expand from 20hz - 50hz depending on the type of amp, and are set at 25hz as a good measure. In reality, you cannot get bass lower then 30hz in your car, as the environment will not allow it, but I am sure you have heard people making custom box and tuned it low , say 28hz, but that does not mean, you will get 120db of bass at 30Hz, as most vehicles peak around 50 -60Hz The bass boost function is usually centered around 45 Hz that provides a "peak" in that frequency and is used to compensate for your subwoofer enclosure, or placement / efficiency issue., But if you have high sensitivity subwoofers, then using the feature will just 'drown' the midrange/ mid- bass/ and high frequencies and is useful if you are into SPL Keep your eye out for a class D monobloc that you can buy later as its a good feature to have if you have a ported box. Not having them can reduce the life of your subwoofer in the ported box if you like to 'pound the pavement' but if you listen to it at low to moderate listening levels then its ok, but keep your eyes peeled for one you can get in future. Hope this gives you some a better understanding of the amps bass boost feature mate!

    Getting Back In

    Hey buddy! Nice move!! Good to know you still have a passion for music in your ride!
  7. So myself and my net admin are having a debate on what car has your Precision Power gear in. I say a Camry, he says a Volvo. Who is right? 

    1. DRBOOM


      Neither mate, it was a 2001 Ford Laser!  Got a new ride now, a Mitsubishi ASX mate, don't know if you have that in the States. I am in Sydney Australia.

      I sold most of those gear but currently have a PPI PC450 amp running high duties.  I will be replacing that with a Hertz HDP-4 amp.

      Thanks for your raising your question mate!

    2. Warpshift


      Damn we were both way off. Also no we don't have those here stateside. The closest that I think a Ford Laser could be compared to would be a Ford Focus. 

    3. DRBOOM


      Most likely,  we are lucky to get the best car audio of both worlds, we have British car audio gear such as Vibe, Goodmans, , gear from Europe such as Hertz, Audison, Scan speak, Peerless, McIntosh, Arc Audio, Morel and also US based brands such as Soundstream, Rockford Fosgate, Phoenix Gold, Kicker, and then we have generic Japanese brands such as Sony, Pioneer, Kenwood and then the bottom we have Juni,  Precision Audio,  Soundstorm, Lanka, Motorpro, and unfamiliar Chinese brands with hard to pronounce names. 

      We have this brand called Option Audio gear, all made in China , but then most products are made there.

      Also check out Alibaba for bulk car audio gear.

      So nobody won the bet huh??

      Enjoy your day mate!



    Have an amp, need to choose a suitable sub.

    Hey mate, Firstly, I would like to point out that measurements in car are to be taken at 12v hence the 12v negative ground theory. Regarding your amp, with a 50amp rating, x 12v equals 600watts. Since its a class A/B amp you will be only churning out 300rms of power.( the other 50% of the power turns to heat) With your Rockville subwoofers, I suggest you go a single 4 ohm, or dual 2 ohm which would get a 4 ohm load suitable with the amp. Also go with a ported design box taking the box size factor which would take a lot , if not, all your boot space.. Ahhh!! the things we do to get bass and get them girls dancing! If you have the amp, use it and you can upgrade later to a more efficient, class D amp mate!

    Random Picture Thread

    Photos of Cairns, Australia, Tropical destination, warm always!
  10. DRBOOM

    Insulating wiring

    Depends where the wire is running to and from mate! In case of power/ wires from the engine bay which has exposure to heat; use plastic conduit a bit larger then the power cable all the way in side the engine bay, and secure with cable ties; use correct lug connections and ensure the connections are secure; In case of behind the head unit, speaker wires, and amplifier wires; ensure you apply solder, followed by heat shrink over to avoid short circuits; behind radio and to speaker terminals; use at least 14 - 16 gauge wire for installations; use cable ties to tidy up wires behind the head unit so that wires and RCA's are all neat and secure; ensure you use correct size power / ground distribution blocks from the battery to the amplifier(s); ensure that all connections are safe during installation and no frayed wire is touching the other terminal; check correct speaker / subwoofer connection to the speakers and the subwoofer input terminals; check subwoofer input terminal to confirm strong connection; secure your subwoofer box in the trunk area so that it does not move and hit your amplifier which could cause wires / ground to loosen; remember, power travels from negative to positive, hence the 12v negative ground theory so make sure you have good grounding point; Hope some of this suggestions are helpful in your case. Cheers!
  11. DRBOOM

    Been some time....

    Welcome back mate, Thanks for raising your question here. So you are after a decent system with a bit of thump to bump your tunes...nice!!! Find out what size your stock speakers are in the locations , look on line or visit a reputable shop to get that information. If it turns out the wrong size then no doubt, they should be able to provide a replaceable according to the size. Suggest you go for component speakers, as they provide better imaging and staging; Suggest to go for a 4 channel amp, that includes variable high pass/ low pass crossover functions, bass boost, subsonic filter , separate gain controls; will need to purchase at least 4 gauge power kit; Subwoofer and box - depending on your bass you are after according to your music taste, ported for RAP / (If you want boomy bass, and sealed box if you want tight well defined kick to your system; Sound deadening is a good option to add to your front doors and boot area where the subwoofer will be placed; You may need to purchase high to low converters if you are using stock speakers , but that's depends if your amplifier has provision to accept signal from speaker outputs; Finally an installer to put it all in, if you are not competent to do the job yourself; The work is fairly easy but to lay it out for you this is the steps you take; find a hole through your engine bay to run the red power wire, usually through the fire wall from a rubber grommet; allow for adequate length so it can securely run close to the fire wall to the positive battery terminal; allow adequate space so it bends and can be tucked away neatly away from the engine bay; You will also need some tools to get this work done, screw drivers, flat and star, portable drill, multimeter, scissors, head unit prying tool, electrical tape, soldering iron, solder, conduit to cover power wires (depending on wire sizes), crimping tool, or a vice; Piece of timber to cover boot area shape; wet rag, dust pan and brush, vacuum cleaner; educate yourself to use a multimeter, your best friend in car audio work; run the power cable from the fire wall, to the interior of the vehicle and run the power cable one side of the vehicle, close to the door plastic covers , you will need to remove them with a flat screw driver, but do it gently so the clips don't break; (don't connect the power cable to the battery but you can crimp the end with lug and attach the fuse holder (without the fuse in it) Next remove your head unit to check if it has provision for RCA's ( if not you will need to purchase speaker wires to connect to the speaker outputs of the head unit and run them the opposite size to the power cable (passenger side by remove the plastic trims near the door) Need to run a remote trigger wire the same side as the red power cable from the battery. If not available from head unit, then use the amplifier with signal sensing from the speaker output of the head unit all the way to the trunk area; in the boot area, use a rear seat anchor point to attach ground wire, after you have crimped the lug into the end of it, Using 1/2 inch plywood, cut out your trunk floor area and you can use large Velcro to attach it to the trunk floor. Use drill to make holes for power, ground / remote/ speaker out put wires / RCA cables; Attach the amplifier and connect the wires and ensure they are tight, use Velcro mount the amplifier horizontally in the boot area, in a corner; Grab your subwoofer box and wire it up bridged to the rear channels of the amp; Run front speaker wires from the trunk area to behind the head unit and connect it to the speaker outputs of your front door car speakers; Now the doors, open the plastic door trims using prying tools, avoid nudging firmly to avoid clips being broken; check for hidden screws and remove them, usually one in the door handle, behind door opening lever, and another near the power window button(s); take the cables out from the door opening lever carefully, inspect how they are fitted so you can put it back once done; Remove stock speakers, take out component speakers to check correct size before installing, and cut the wires; you may need to solder additional wire to accommodate the passive crossover network then out to your after market woofer / tweeter; Run your tweeter wires up the door sail area and mount it securely to the sale using appropriate bracket; check if all speaker wires are away from the window winding mechanism; Wipe inside of the doors with damp cloth and then apply sound deadening inside the inner curved panel, sparingly, you can cut an add deadening material, do this in a hot day as its easier for the adhesive to stick nicely due to warm temperature; You may need to apply speaker adapter if needed or you can fit it straight in if it fits in the spot with the hole aligned, use some sound deadening around the speakers before you install it, solder the speaker wires, tweeters, to the passive crossover and place the crossover on the sound deadening material outside so it sits between the door panel and the plastic door trim; ensure that speaker is wired correctly checking the polarity; Apply sound deadening to the outer panel between the plastic door panel, again, sparingly, you can knock on it to see it does not ring; Place the door trim back and check the crossover, and speaker is all clear to operate; Repeat the same step the other side; Ones that is done, check ground, , power, Cables on the amplifier is all secured. Connect your subwoofer and secure it with Velcro or use small L brackets to secure it to the Plywood panel. Check all gains on the amp is on minimum; Connect the fuse on the battery terminal and then turn your radio on. ( if your radio has provision for high pass, low pass, subwoofer control, use them to adjust the sound) Go to your amp and get a mate to turn the volume to 3/4 before you start to set the gains on the amp. Also engage your amps high pass to run the front speakers, and set your rear channel to low pass, start with 100hz and then 80hz, Run it on low to medium volume for a week before the speakers break in then you can adjust the gains later; Turn your ignition to see there is no engine noise; (mounting the amp on the timber board, will restrict electro magnetic ground loops so you don't get any) ensure your subwoofer is secured in the trunk area, add a subwoofer grill for protection against mums shopping, kids scooter, your golf bag etc.. Let us know how your go. This is a rough impression but you can be more creative and have good wood working skills to do a better custom work using more elaborate tools such as router / Perspex, Custom subwoofer box instead of a sealed / ported prefab box but its a good start to searching for a decent sound in your ride. Let us know how you go mate!
  12. DRBOOM

    Midbass in back, coax in front?

    Definitely components up front to provide you better imaging and staging. The rears, go for 6x9's but place them very study with at least 1/2 inch (3/4) is better to get a better mid-bass kick and ensure your trunk area has some sound deadening as well to stop any unwanted rattles. Power them all with a 50rms x 4 channel amp and you will be happy. Oh, don't forget to apply sound deadening to front doors before you install the components up front. Also when choosing your 6x9's check if they have at least 1.5 inch voice coil or larger so they can handle some power, at least 100rms each, again, more is better!