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DRBOOM last won the day on January 25

DRBOOM had the most liked content!


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    CarAudio.com Regular

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    Out of the loop... Amp help

    Agree, keep away from Hifonics , MB Quart (new models) as they are made by MAXONICS...which took over such good brands which dished out quality products a few decades ago. I am note sure if the new Precision Power is any good as all as the company also makes the new Soundstream gear. I would also recommend looking at Phoenix Gold products. I have a Phoenix Gold RX1100.1 amp and it runs pretty well. With Pioneer, you cant go wrong as they have been selling stuff since the 1930's and although their gear changes over time to reflect the current market trend, they don't tend to print '00000' watts on their amp as they are pretty much what they claim to churn out. I think in most cases, for everyday driving a 200rms system with a 4 channel amp running components up front and a single subwoofer bridged on the rear channels would keep most road users happy and not destroy your ear drums as well. Also keep your eye open of some second hand amps as they will outlast the newer products. I have a Precision Power PC450 running my speakers and they still are sounding sweet in 2019. and I think they were released in the early 1990's. Old Kenwoods are also a good gear that was quality built, not sure about the newer items though. The old Rockford Fosgate amps were bullet proof performers as well, even the entry level ' series 1' models. Old Eclipse amps are also solid performers. Pic of EA3422 4 channel amp attached. PPI 2600 is a 2 channel amp but they are very good built and with good features.

    No sound on subwoofers

    ok, so its all installed with the subwoofer not playing. Few things to check here mate; check amplifier wiring, from battery, ground, remote wire check if the RCA is plugged to the amplifier; check if the amplifier is being switched on when your head unit is turned on; use a multimeter to check subwoofer box connection. if you don't have one, open the subwoofer to check it the speaker terminals are secure and connected use the multimeter to check your subwoofer resistance ( hope its not a fried voice coil) check amplifier is turning on, if not then check power, ground / rca connections; Finally if all seems to be connect on the trunk area, then you may have to gain access to the rear of the head unit to check all connections; check if the battery positive fuse / circuit breaker is not switched off or the fuse is blown check your ground from battery to the amplifier to the vehicle chassis. if all works then also check your RCA resistance, and speaker wire to the subwoofer as well. check remote wire that turns the amp on, could be broken or touching ground or just spliced during install so no signal is going to your subwoofer amp. Hope this helps you out mate!

    not enough bass

    Mate, sounds like your box is too small for ported design and tuned too high, If you don't have the space for ported, go seal the port opening and then give it a run. For ported design you have to go at least 2.5cu feet plus the port design for them 15's so you box is definitely too small for ported. Try with the sealed port and if you are still not happy then you may have to construct a new subwoofer box but know that 15s' would require a larger box so it can be tuned low. Its all the laws of physics, you cannot get loud low bass in a tiny space saving subwoofer box design, just will not cut the cheese!

    What happened to the internet?

    I say hold on to your old Car Audio & Electronics Magazines, Car Stereo magazines as they contained information that would be hard to find today. I understand that the trend has changed today and people buying car audio gear are not interested to know the THD or signal to noise ration of their gear. Those old magazine had testing and results published against other similar gear and it was so informative to read up on them regardless of its cosmetic looks. I suppose the current car audio buyers are just on interested on the gear and they google if they need to know if a product is worth buying before they make any purchase. The downside is, that any Joe Bloggs can purchase, abuse gear and then write it to be a crappy product without fully understand how to use the product. That is my issue with the internet with regards to product review.
  5. OK, this is my suggestion to you now. Upgrade your chassis ground to engine; Borrow a car battery from a friend, and give it a run in your car; if the problem persists then; check your cars head light point, could be poor ground / corrosion to the head light connections itself or its not properly fitted to the car headlight mechanism; buy / another set of HID replacement lights / try them out first to see if the problem persists; try out another subwoofer amplifier to see if the problem still persists; Are you sure you checked your car head unit, ground, Car battery ground, amplifier ground to see they are properly secured and tight? Let us know how you go mate!
  6. Hey mate, Thanks for the update. I suggest you disconnect your battery ground, then the positive one too, and get some sand paper and sand both terminals then wipe with dust cloth then connect your terminals back but do the positive one first, then the negative one last. I overlooked that issue as well, maybe that should fix your issue after you clean it up and apply some light grease over the terminals to avoid water / corrosion issues in future. Also check that your battery connections are tight as well. Cheers from Australia!
  7. Oh, that reading from the ground terminal is does not sound correct. You need to educate yourself on how to use a multimeter. Its your best friend in car audio issues. This is how you use your multimeter to see if you are getting a good reading with 12 v. Set your multimeter to 12v dc, not AC. probe the red one on the battery positive on your amplifier, and the black one on your negative one. Should read 12v. Ask a mate to start your car and keep the probes there to see the voltage drop. If it drops to a few volts then you have to check your grounding points on the amp, head unit and test it again. If the voltage still drops to a few volts then its time you replaced your battery. Hope this helps you out mate.
  8. Mate, in 99% of the case its usually a weak ground point that causes the issue. You will notice that stock battery ground wires are a puny 8 gauge, so with added load on the battery , the dimming in the lights is a result of voltage drop. As I stated, re-visit your ground wiring, from the head unit, amplifier and upgrade the stock ground by adding another ground wire using a truck ground wiring as they come in different sizes and this should eliminate your head light dimming issue.
  9. The four gauge power wiring should be more than adequate. I would also suggest to use a multimeter to get a reading of your battery condition as well as I don't know where you are and that cold weather also plays a toll on the battery regardless of their age mate. In theory, the car only needs 2 volts to start so if you are experiencing this issue, use a multimeter to probe on the terminals and let somebody start your car and if the voltage drops significantly, then it could be your battery issue here as 400 watts is not enough juice to cause this issue for you. Another factor we do not know is how often you drive your car as that can also be an issue if you don't drive it too often. I have a stock battery with 1200watts RMS system being run off a stock battery. I do drive daily , so my battery is kept charged by the alternator , like 200km / 124.2 miles per week and I travel to my remote work which is 400km / (248.5miles ) away every 6 weeks.
  10. DRBOOM

    High Input Question

    Hey mate! Thanks for raising your question. The option of either using the high to low speaker inputs or RCA inputs were implemented by car audio amplifier manufacturers so that the amp could be added to a 'stock' head unit that did not have provision of RCA's hence the idea. Later many amps came out without this option so it also was a cost cutting factor for the amp manufacturers but due to recent better stock sounding systems , the idea has again reappeared in newer amplifiers and some amplifiers available today uses the speaker wires to even turn the amp on and off when required which is a great idea as stock radios did not provide you the option for a remote turn on from the head unit and I am also in the market to buy one soon as I am running dual amps using a stock radio There is no need to use them unless integrating an external amplifier to a stock system to give it the extra volume and more 'thump' in your system but other then that, I would not use it. My current amplifier does not have this feature so I am using a high to low converter so I can then connect the RCA's that run to the back of the trunk area to connect to the speaker amplifier. Hope this has provided some insight for you when it comes to using high input connections to an amplifier that provides you this option mate! Attached photo of the old school Rockford Fosgate 4600X amplifier which give you the option to use the high level speaker inputs between the RCA inputs but this amp is so dated but had great sound quality as a 'series 1' entry level amplifier.
  11. Usually with 400 watts, you should not have this issue unless; your battery is on its way out; poor grounding points on battery and amplifier grounding points; typically, battery would last 2 - 3 years so if your battery is older, then it maybe be wise to replace the battery. check the CCA value of the battery and you can install a better rating battery as long as it fits in the designated space.
  12. I would suggest to also upgrade your amplifier ' ground' point and also check your cars battery ground point, or you can also add another ground point to the stock location as well. Note that in vehicles, power travels from NEGATIVE to positive hence the 12v negative ground printed in automotive 12v products.
  13. DRBOOM

    What sub is this? I have nooo idea!

    If I had a choice, go the Kicker definitely!
  14. DRBOOM

    Any vintage Kicker?

    Sorry mate, I am in Australia so would cost an arm and a leg to post.
  15. DRBOOM

    Any vintage Kicker?

    You mean some thing this old?????