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Everything posted by DRBOOM

  1. Hey mate, Thanks for raising your issue here! Looks like a faulty connection somewhere, so I suggest the following; check power, ground, remote wires, from car battery, behind your head unit, check RCA cables; use multimeter to check resistance on the subwoofer, could be a faulty voice coil ; Disconnect subwoofer output wires and use a test speaker with your amp to see if the problem persists, if it does, most likely your subwoofer is the culprit; Take your amp out and test with another amp to see if the subwoofer works , then possible cause could be a fault with the amplifier; Check amplifier grounding point, remember, power runs from negative to positive, hence the 12v negative ground notice! Check amplifier settings that its not high passed or the frequency is set to run tweeters resulting to low frequency being restricted to feed the signal to your subwoofer; Hopefully if you attend to all of these tasks, your issue should be sorted

    Newbie needing sub tips/advice

    Ok, so you are definitely not chasing SQ and more inclined towards SPL, so a ported boxes subwoofer system would be your choice along with a dedicated monobloc amp , a 1000rms dedicated amp will be a good start Now since you mentioned you are not keen on prefab boxes, then only choice you have with a box is to custom made one to fit your vehicle area. That leaves you to either dosh out the greens to get one made or do it yourself, or, give your mate a slab of beer for doing one for you. would also suggest you visit some car audio shops around your area to see what they sell and recommend. If you are after a particular brand, you could suggest or ask if they could get one for you but it all depends on what is available in your country Not sure about your car audio options but in Australia, we have best of both worlds, European goods like Focal, Audison, Hertz, Vibe (British) and also goods from US brands such as Rockford Fosgate, Soundstream, DB, Arc Audio, Audison, then we also have the generic Sony, Pioneer, Kenwood, Soundstorm, Audiobank, etc. Lastly, it all comes down to how much dough you wish to spend on a subwoofer/s system and if you are chasing BIG bass, then a pair of 15's would certainly keep you happy., but then 12's are also good depending on the box tuning and size to fit your ride!

    Speakers cut out when value too... Low?

    OK, speakers are not performing as it should. I suggest the following; Get a test speaker, possibly a pair, and from your amps output going to your car speakers, disconnect and connect the test speakers and give them a run to see if the issue remains; If it does then it could possibly be your amp; so you may want to give another amp a go from a mate to see if the issue remains; If the problem goes away then it could be your amp. Also check the RCA wires and may want to replace them to see if the problem persists; Also, check your speakers if they are not touching 'vehicle chassis' causing them to short circuit; Also check if your amp is not going into 'protection mode' when the issue occurs; Let us know how you go mate!
  4. Hey there guys and girls. Im in Sydney Australia. I have a small SUV , a Mitsubishi ASX and done some extensive work in the boot area. Sound deadened the whole area after removing the space saver tyre, trunk lid, side rear panels, made a false floor with some 4x2 timber screwed to the original screw thread points. Liquid nails was applied to additional 4x2 timber to raise the height to accommodate the spare wheel. Additional 2 x 2 inch timber was used to make a frame around the 3/4 inch marine ply which had hinges installed to access the spare wheel. A H frame was added to mount the amplifiers on either side and the top baffle was used to mount the subwoofers firing towards the rear windshield glass. Cardboard was used to create a template to seal the side curved plastic areas and then 5mm mdf was used to cut the shape. The cut outs was then sealed with wadding (dacron) with staples and then I use black automotive carpet to cover the waddings. The cut out on either side was then screwed to the H wood panels. The main wood baffle which originally housed a pair of Rockford Fostgate P215S4 Subwoofers where removed. This top baffle also had wadding around the edges facing the rear so it created a good seal in the boot area. To install the Boston subwoofers I used a 1/2 inch MDF since I original board was 3/4 inch marine plywood. and screwed the board securely to the to baffle. Before the board was screwed in, I sprayed it with kwick glue and applied black automotive carpet to it. The raised curved baffle created a good impression with the two Boston Acoustics subwoofers. I checked the Bostons FS of 31Hz and the QTS of 0.57 may work for me. I understood from the Boston's speaker manual, they take 1 cu feet sealed boxes but with this specs, I thought I give them a run as they were laying in my garage for a while. I am running them with a Phoenix gold RX1100.1 amplifier and they are single 4 ohm voice coils. I am feeding them 444rms per woofer and man, this subwoofers POUND!!!!. The minute I powered them up, I noticed the snap bass response which hit hard and was detailed. The Rockford's did not perform the same way being larger subwoofers. I also have a pair of Soundstream old school Rubicon 12's that I may also try out but so far the Boston's are keeping me very impressed. My boot area is specified as 14.9 cubic feet, its not too big but I thought it was still small for a pair of 15 inch subwoofers. So far I am really impressed with these gorgeous subwoofers that many SQ fanatics around the world have heard good reputation for this awesome subwoofer. I do wish that Boston goes back to car audio gear but wishful thinking My other audio gear is a Precision Power PC450 amplifier running Boston Pro 6.4fs, and a pair of Rockford co ax in the rear. I have put pictures of my old system with the Rockford Fosgate subwoofers just to provide an impression. I will add the new pics soon! Anyway, please feel free to comment

    Sub very quiet help!!

    Few issues come to mind, but could be RCA setting set to speakers (does the head unit opt you to chose either speakers / subwoofer??? If it does not give you the option, chances are, you are running them as speaker and it only jumps when there is bass thump Low voltage from head unit - Those and most head units these days don't have a high voltage output hence your only hear something when you turn it up 3/4 volume and your amp gains set high Again, agree with my man, Jeffdachef to try another head unit to see if the problem persists, If you can borrow from a mate and run one, then that can be confirmed as well The head unit could be faulty too, so get a replacement and / or upgrade to a higher spec unit with more RCA's as the one you have is only entry level one and does not offer other features such as subwoofer volume / subwoofer frequency choice,/ subwoofer volume/ phase option. Also get a unit with built in high pass filter so you can run your front and rear speakers on high pass.

    What song are you listening to right now?

    This is my pick up for 3.00pm today!

    Looking for speaker choice advice

    Mate, its kinda hard to make a suggestion for you as what sounds good to me may not be your cup of tea. I suggest you visit a car audio shop to audition a few components as that is the best way to choose speakers to your liking and budget. Once you know which particular model/brand you are after then you have to option to buy it from there or look on-line. Regardless of any component you choose, don't forget to apply sound deadening to your doors as well as that will increase your mid-bass performance dramatically and also quieten your cars interior as well....winning!!! lastly, I am not sure if you would go the whole hog and do a custom door trim to accommodate 2 way or 3 way system as you have that Ford., but would be a good option to look into depending on your budget. I had Infinity speakers before and did not like their over-bright tweeters which used to down the mid-bass so they did not provide a well balanced sound as they tweeters were too efficient compared to the mid-woofer and that is the case for most entry level / cheap component speakers. Best to go listen to a few and don't forget the size of your stock speakers so you can accommodate them with minimal modifications. Also speaker depth is also an important factor. Would be a good measure to open one door trim and take out one of the woofers to see clearance space at the back. You could wind down the glass and then measure form the speaker screw points to the glass scissors / mechanism to get a measurement impression. Let us know how you go mate!

    Assistance required for Speaker replacement

    OK, so the speaker plays but it starts to sound bad at mid range frequencies. So in theory the speaker voice coil is not fried as yet if you have not opened to door to actually inspect the speaker, you cannot assume what the issue is, could be something hindering the speaker itself so my suggestion to you would be to remove the door trims to access the speaker, take it out and run it using some sort of music source. If it sounds perfect then there may be something hindering its performance. If it turns out being faulty, then you may have to contact some car wreckers around your area, for a start to find a replacement. If you are happy with how the stock speakers sounds then there is not point replacing the whole components. Now if your search is up to no avail, then you will be left with finding alternative / aftermarket components. I do hope you find a replacement from the wreckers but lets not go there first, as you have your work cut out to take the necessary steps into rectifying your issue. Good luck and let us know how you go mate!

    old school amps vs new amp sound quality

    This is something I did not know, much better headroom. Thanks for that valuable information, Jeffdachef!
  10. Would suggest you take the following steps: check if your amp lights up or not in protection mode; If it is, then chances are, you have fried the amp or may need fixing; check speaker output connection on the amplifier to the subwoofers; check RCA connection to the amp is secure; check power, ground, remote wire; With adding a new subwoofer, you will need to re-adjust your amp to suit your subwoofer so you don't drive it into clipping; check your new subwoofer with multimeter so its not faulty or has a dead voice coil in between. If you have access to another amp, replace your current amp to see if the problem remains; Hopefully troubleshooting with the above suggestions may remedy your issue. Let us know how you go mate!
  11. DRBOOM

    LP filter

    Agee, with Jeffdachef, keep it low mate!
  12. DRBOOM

    Need help chosing a SQ woofer

    Arc Audio subwoofer is another contender. Helix, Audison, Phoenix Gold RX or Ti series but that could be over your budget. Focal is another good contender but it has different models from entry to flagship. Other than that, there is not many subwoofers available today with special focus on SQ, at least not in Australia where I reside. You are welcome to buy my Boston Pro 12.5LF's but postage would be a killer
  13. DRBOOM

    old school amps vs new amp sound quality

    Mate, Its kinda hard to say as amps made back in those days had a different market trend that consumers looked out for. Today consumers are not interested in specs but rather the foot print and efficiency. Signal to noise ratio and damping factor is not a concern anymore but to me it is. Having said that, everyone is focus on saving power hence the class D circuitry in car amps makes them in small foot print and big power without draining your car battery and that is where the market is focused today, same goes for your home where you are encouraged to install solar system to save energy. I say if you have the gear and they have kept you happy in the past, I say use it and only if you need more volume then you can look for alternative amps. I am currently using a PPI PC450 amp with a signal to noise ratio of 105db and damping factor of over 500 means my speakers are well controlled and they are very clean amps, but again, that is my choice. Todays trend pushes consumer to be aware of power saving methods hence class D amps are now available for automotive use. But I still have mates who still own and use old school amps and they will not buy new products as they love the sound from them. The small foot print on the new class D speaker and subwoofer amps is always a plus and makes you wonder how this little amp will produce 1000rms at a given load but today , that is made possible due to the class D and T circuitry., thanks to the nerds. Give it a run and see how you go mate!
  14. DRBOOM

    upward firing sub box help

    When I see a box like that, I always wonder what the tuning frequency is.... As long as you are happy with its performance is all that matters I say!...winning!!!!
  15. DRBOOM

    How long will it last?

    I had a mate who had one, was feeding it 2K. That's an awesome subwoofer but agree, too pricey for me
  16. DRBOOM

    No sound from subs?

    Hey mate, thanks for your feedback. They say when you buy a second hand car, you also inherit the issues with it, and that is, with or without the sellers advice to you. Since you are into car audio as a hobby, try to fix up the wiring and its not only better for you, it will also be safer in the future. Don't be fooled by the seller saying it ran like that for the past 8 years Now that you are the owner, give it a good tidy up and secure the box so it does not move around in the trunk area. In Australia, you can be fined by a cop for having an unsecured subwoofer box as it poses a threat to you and your passengers. In an event of an accident. the unsecured items in your car, including a subwoofer box becomes a 'missile' that can cause injury to the driver and passengers. This also goes for unsecured speakers in the rear parcel tray.
  17. DRBOOM

    No sound from subs?

    OK, not the worst install I have seen but I have seen worst in my 32 years in the hobby I would like to suggest a few things to help with your issue. Firstly, buy a power distribution block and run each wires respectively to the nominated audio gear, as the install job poses a threat to you and your ride so do this ASAP, remember what Young MC said, ' got no money and you got no car so you got no woman and there you are!' - Bust a move - Young MC. Once you have done that, check your head unit if it has a provision to run a subwoofer as it looks like only one pair of RCA is connected to the head unit. If not sure about your head unit settings, take it to a car audio shop so they can check it out for you. In most cases. you have to option of choosing Speaker / Subwoofer (yes/no) and then it may prompt you to select subwoofer frequency and loudness like, 0db, 3db, 6db and reverse db as well. Then check on your amp that its not set as 'high pass mode' and that's the reason why your subwoofer is not operating as usual. Then, check with the multimeter on your subwoofer connection, it should pose a 1/2/4/8 ohm resistance depending on your subwoofer. If unsure, take the subwoofer out to check reading, Another way of checking speakers is using a pen light battery and connect it to the terminals with 1.5 volts, it should create a scratching sound, to advise you that the voice coils are not fried, at least not yet! If your head unit issue with subwoofer controls are all good and the subwoofer is ok, then also check the RCA cables. Run another pair to the amp to see if it works. Faulty RCA's do tend to pose a nightmare as they do fail over time. Hopefully one of these suggestions may remedy your problem. Let us know how you go mate!
  18. Ok, if the subwoofer sounds ok when it travels , I suggest you take the subwoofer out and test with a multimeter, it may have a faulty voice coil. Another method would be to test the same subwoofer with another amplifier to see if the ticking sound persists, if not, then it could be your amplifier as well. Usually speakers will work fine and sometimes the amps fail and can cause issues. All the speaker does is convert electrical energy to acoustic energy and nothing more.