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DRBOOM

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About DRBOOM

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    CarAudio.com Regular

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  1. DRBOOM

    Subwoofer problems

    We in Australia are blessed to have car audio gear from USA and UK as well and we also have lots of crappy gear as well from Korea but it seems most amps and speakers are made in China BAR the flag ship models. I know all new Kicker, Rockford gear is made in China EXCEPT their flagship models. Fithwheel, you maybe correct to state other countries have brands and gear that may have never reached your shores.
  2. DRBOOM

    Random Picture Thread

    Hey Boomin Tahoe, I visited Seattle a few years ago so took the pic, mate!
  3. DRBOOM

    Subwoofer problems

    Agree with Boomin Tahoe here, Never heard of that amp, would be a cheapie Flea market gear. Suggest you try another amp in your system so you can rectify the culprit, most likely it would be your amp. Secondly, what power wiring are you using to power your system, 8 guage, 4 gauge, 2 gauge??? Please don't tell me you are using stock power wiring to run this amp?
  4. DRBOOM

    2018 Subaru WRX

    Looks like a nice job coming along. I say IB those subs indeed, looks like they are Dayton subwoofers right?
  5. DRBOOM

    Test bench power supply

    Im in Australia so I use a AC/DC Converter which churns out 40amps and has enough juice to run two amps and a head unit. Loud enough for my garage needs.
  6. DRBOOM

    Sony Components... good?

    Sony has been around for a long time and back in the 90's they were competing with top end brands such as Rockford, Soundstream, Pioneer, Clarion and their ES models were really good and were manufactured in Japan, back then, I think some Clarion gear was also made in US as well. I think the brand is coming up again past their XPLOD red trademark which damaged their reputation. Only your ears will tell if they are any good. Give them a run and let us know if YOU like it, that all that matters!
  7. DRBOOM

    HELP MEEE PLEASE

    If you can open the front dash panel to access your car radio, disconnect the speaker wires from the head unit then, use a 1.5v penlight battery, use each speaker wire that you disconnected from the car radio to see if they make scratching sound. Use the penlight battery to connect to each pair of speaker, do this to both front and back left hand side, If the speaker crackles when power goes through them, then they are not dead, so its your head unit. This is another way of testing speakers with low voltage across the speaker wires feeding to the speakers. Try this if you don't have a multi meter.
  8. DRBOOM

    Help out a noobie over here.

    OK, some other suggestions for you: take one of the speakers out and test with another speaker to see if the problem persists, if it does, then its your head unit issue; If its the speaker then it should be replaced; Make sure your speakers are not touching door chassis causing a short circuit; There could only be two issues, either the head unit or the speakers itself so it should be easy to rectify; Check the speaker wires as well, maybe it could be frayed along and causing issue, so check the wires as well, if possible, run another set of pairs from the head unit. Check the speaker wires behind the head unit and run a test wire to your car speaker and see if the problem still persists, if it is clear then the culprit could be the speaker wire some where along the line, best run new wires in that case; Hope this helps mate!
  9. Hey mate, nice gear! It all depends on which way you do your install. If you plan to run them on an active stage, or passive stage. The passive stage is when you add an in-line 6db/12db cross over to the tweeters or; if you plan to run active then your amplifier would do the duty to send the customised signal to both your mid-bass and tweeters; (presuming your say, a 4 channel amp has variable high pass/ low pass/ full range capabilities with variable cross overs for front / rear independent points and separate gain adjustments) If you plan to run passive and that is what your question is based on then, yes, you will need to sought some crossovers from car audio shops, may be worth to contact them before you make the trip to save time. See below pics to see if your amp has built in features. Cheers mate!
  10. Here's the latest photos of the install. You cannot see them with the trunk lid open due to the custom grill cover or even from the bottom unless you peak past the umbrella. Its surprising they sound very tight as well. Having a low resonant frequency and a QTS of 0.57, I took these factors into consideration before attempting to use them. I also tried out the old school Soundstream Rubicon 12 inch and they also done a good job, although not as tight as the Boston's though.
  11. I peaked at 117db at 50Hz. They sound very efficient but I am feeding them 444rms per subwoofer though!
  12. Some really nice gear here! I am sure some have moved some gear and just hanging on to the pics for their memories. Don't know about you guys but I bought all my old school gear second hand as I could not afford them when they were released. Tahoe12, I agree with you mate about setting priorities with electronics as they can cost a lot. I cannot assume that most pics here were bought new or second hand but its good to share pics of new and discontinued electronic products of the yester- years. Whatever the outcome, I am happy that you all shared your pics here. Not worried If you are chasing SQ or SPL , its just the idea of seeing items in good condition regardless of their age as most here would take good care of their products regardless of how much dosh was forked out to buy the gear.
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