Jump to content

Michael Poole

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

  • Country

    United States

About Michael Poole

  • Rank
    CarAudio.com Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I believe you know a lot about car audio but you still haven't answered my original question. We can bicker all day and all night but it sounds like I'm going to have to learn the hard way. Maybe I'll catch you at a car audio competition and you can hear my system. Until then let's keep the thread to the original question. Thanks for the advice, I will be looking into the subject in depth before moving forward. A link to some information on mixing drivers and why it is bad would be highly appreciated
  2. All of the enclosures are built to exact specifications. I know where you're coming from. enclosures, amps, and audio processors must be perfect to produce the right sound, but I have personal experience with 2 JL W0v3 10's and 2 JLW0v3 12's both in the bass wedge box from JL (so perfect enclosures) both have the same exact driver on the same exact power supply. The 12s did much better with low frequencies than the 10's this was in the same car at the same time. Saying that an 8" sub can do the same thing a 21" sub can is like saying you can get bass from a tweeter if the enclosure is right (in my opinion)
  3. I'm all ears on why this is a bad idea, please explain. I want as many sizes as possible to focus specific hz levels to the speakers who play it best. best example is 8" subs vs 15" subs. 8s just don't play low frequencies as well as 15s and vice versa. Also the reason I want 2 alternators is because the hot idle amperage of the best alternator I can find (which is the 270xp from dc power inc.) is not enough to handle the max amps needed to power all of the subs, that mixed with the power needed to run the car, lights, spark plugs, heater, A/C, etc. not to mention the high end speakers. Total wattage is 3500 by the way. Another side note, this build is focused on sound quality not shake. Hence the p99, multiple speaker sizes, and crossovers.
  4. Hey guys I'm brand new to this forum and need a little help. I apologize up front if this question has already been answered. If so please shoot me a link. I've scoped the internet far and wide and can't find a good answer. Anyway, let's get to the point. I'm in the works of new audio build and I want to run a high output alternator straight to a battery bank that will power all of my subs (8 in total totaling 2700 watts rms) then I want to run a step above stock alternator to the start battery and high/mid range speakers. So here's the problem (or at least I think so). The alternator grounds to the engine directly through the mounting bolts so unless I make an insane alternator mount I can't avoid having 2 power sources sharing the same ground. Is this even a problem? Can you share the same ground or will you ultimately be connecting the batteries together? I want the systems to be completely separate but the more I think about it the more I think I'm not going to be able to do it. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if the question is layed out poorly hard to think of the right words and terminology. As a side note in case anyone is curious, the build I'm on is 2 15" JLW0v3's, 2 12" JLW0v3, 2 10" JLW0v3's, 2 8" JLW3v3, 2 6.5" JL C7 speakers, 2 1" JL C7 tweeters, 2 5.5" JL C5 speakers, and 2 .75" JL C5 tweeters. 8 subs 8 speakers as many different sizes as possible all on a pioneer p99 in a chevy astro. All JL amps as well except for the highs and mids only because I love pioneer for multi channel applications.