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L1ttlet

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About L1ttlet

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  1. L1ttlet

    Speaker wiring help

    And we all gotta start somewhere, better to ask questions from experienced individuals in my book than to waste money and have to try again. Rather ask and get it right the first time. Ur always helpful, I take it u been in car audio for quite sometime.
  2. L1ttlet

    Speaker wiring help

    I have 12 now and it is just to much to be running with all the ither cables I have running like a 9 wire for the 3 volt meters, rca's bass cable, remote wire, fan wire. Just to much for one side. I was thinking 14awg or 16awg, I'll go with the smaller as I have hardly any room left to run cables through car. 16 awg, u say for how many watts u predicting?
  3. L1ttlet

    Speaker wiring help

    Well damn, now I'm rethinking everything, thank u for the info. So question, what size speaker wire should suffice for up to 300watts of power rms, since now I will need to run 2 sets of wires for my build.
  4. L1ttlet

    Back. Build for 2 sundown x2-15's

    yes, really not going to provide any extra strength to this box but it sure looks nice, but when I first started it 5 months ago I thought it would. Lol. next time just do a rattle cab clear coat or something to make it shine and be smooth.
  5. L1ttlet

    Back. Build for 2 sundown x2-15's

    20190507_011449.mp4
  6. L1ttlet

    Back. Build for 2 sundown x2-15's

    Some more updates, 85% done. Plexiglass and leds realy make this box, very proud of this one, although my fiberglass resin coating on inside of box could use some perfecting.
  7. L1ttlet

    Speaker wiring help

    Okay so I currently am running a wolfram125.4 amp that can play 2ohm stable. I currently have a pair of passive crossovers and some 6x9's in the rear. I am planning on going with 4 super tweeters and 4 6.5 midbass. One super tweeter and one 6.5 midbass per channel. I don't want any passive crossover and want to go active. Here's my confusion and question, to me it makes absolutely no sense to run two sets of wires from each door to amp to run 2 super tweeters of one channel and then 2 more off another channel and repeat with midbass. What I'm wanting to do is hook up one super tweeter to midbass with a filtering cap ofcourse and then the midbass all the way up to amp, would this change the ohm load and is this even possible? Would it drop down wattage per speaker, would each one be seeing the same amount of power, is the filtering cap a potential fire hazard, does anyone else run their setups like this? So many variables and unanswered questions I have. Any help would be awesome, my mind is wandering with this one and google is of very little help.
  8. So back in December I took on a build to build a box for a '75 Cadillac. It's been a few months and I'm finally nearing completion as my job and clients job intervened. So here we go. There is about 4.4 cubes per sub after port and displacement, bracing and fiberglass resin coat. It is 1.5 inches thick. There will be a 3/4 inch plexiglass viewing window where the hole is.
  9. L1ttlet

    Best 10" for $120?

    For 135$ a sub and cheaper when they give 10% on the website gpcaraudio.com. get a soundqubed 10 inch hds3.110 series. 1200 watts rms. U won't be disappointed. These slam. I have 3 in a ported box tuned to 35hertz. Also swapped them out with the reaudio sxx 1200watts rms I have and the difference was night and day. These easily out performed the re's and they are 200$ each subs. What a rip.
  10. L1ttlet

    New build and minor box build help

    hispls this is the amp rack of box and the current issue.
  11. Well damn. Idk, these amps feel heavier. They are nice. I really like them. I know. I need better electrical, actual just one h/o alternator would do, but I have a chevy cavalier and just don't wanna buy an expensive alternator (270amp I was thinking) cuz I don't plan on having it much longer. The lto cells I want, but again gotta sell some old stuff before I can dump the money on it. Or tax time maybe. That's all my electrical needs is one or the other. Either way I'm looking at around $500 more. Need to sell my old electrical and subs n boxes first. All in all though. I'd say I haven't done very bad after only starting my car audio passion since Jan. of 2017. Nxt I want to learn to recone subs and troubleshoot and fix amps. But first I am fine tuning my box building. Still curious on ports on them, thickness to watts and different kinds.
  12. Found the weight on SSA sight. Damn, my guestimation is spot on. Lol
  13. u do? How u liking those amps? Also do u have urs wired below 1 ohm? And no, highly doubtful that I am feeding them more than 1500watts rms on stock alt. Can only turn head unit up to 15 outta a possible 28 before distortion. Anything over 15 and voltage drops way to low. Like down to 11 or more. 15 is thw sweet spot until I can get some lto cells. They definitely weight more than 30lbs. I'll have that amp rack out soon. I'll put them on the scale with a handtowel between. At least 40-50lbs. I can't seem to find their weight on wolfram sight, u?
  14. Boxes look good and solid. I see the amp rack with the two on hinges to hide all the wires? Nice. The amps didn't see any vibration at all in that position? The one with amp mounted directly to there is still no vibration on amp?
  15. ah yeah, it's definitely a learning experience. I basically did the 5/8 mdf for weight reduction and I cut the supports to 6inches and rounded out middle. All my builds have been 5/8 thick. I'm thinking for anything around 1k watts that may suffice with proper bracing. If ya check my box build post I remounted the amps off of box and still they vibrate. I'm thinking the only way is to build a stronger box that won't vibrate as all and mount them to it. What do u brace ur box with?
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