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L1ttlet

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About L1ttlet

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  1. L1ttlet

    Best 10" for $120?

    For 135$ a sub and cheaper when they give 10% on the website gpcaraudio.com. get a soundqubed 10 inch hds3.110 series. 1200 watts rms. U won't be disappointed. These slam. I have 3 in a ported box tuned to 35hertz. Also swapped them out with the reaudio sxx 1200watts rms I have and the difference was night and day. These easily out performed the re's and they are 200$ each subs. What a rip.
  2. L1ttlet

    New build and minor box build help

    hispls this is the amp rack of box and the current issue.
  3. Well damn. Idk, these amps feel heavier. They are nice. I really like them. I know. I need better electrical, actual just one h/o alternator would do, but I have a chevy cavalier and just don't wanna buy an expensive alternator (270amp I was thinking) cuz I don't plan on having it much longer. The lto cells I want, but again gotta sell some old stuff before I can dump the money on it. Or tax time maybe. That's all my electrical needs is one or the other. Either way I'm looking at around $500 more. Need to sell my old electrical and subs n boxes first. All in all though. I'd say I haven't done very bad after only starting my car audio passion since Jan. of 2017. Nxt I want to learn to recone subs and troubleshoot and fix amps. But first I am fine tuning my box building. Still curious on ports on them, thickness to watts and different kinds.
  4. Found the weight on SSA sight. Damn, my guestimation is spot on. Lol
  5. u do? How u liking those amps? Also do u have urs wired below 1 ohm? And no, highly doubtful that I am feeding them more than 1500watts rms on stock alt. Can only turn head unit up to 15 outta a possible 28 before distortion. Anything over 15 and voltage drops way to low. Like down to 11 or more. 15 is thw sweet spot until I can get some lto cells. They definitely weight more than 30lbs. I'll have that amp rack out soon. I'll put them on the scale with a handtowel between. At least 40-50lbs. I can't seem to find their weight on wolfram sight, u?
  6. Boxes look good and solid. I see the amp rack with the two on hinges to hide all the wires? Nice. The amps didn't see any vibration at all in that position? The one with amp mounted directly to there is still no vibration on amp?
  7. ah yeah, it's definitely a learning experience. I basically did the 5/8 mdf for weight reduction and I cut the supports to 6inches and rounded out middle. All my builds have been 5/8 thick. I'm thinking for anything around 1k watts that may suffice with proper bracing. If ya check my box build post I remounted the amps off of box and still they vibrate. I'm thinking the only way is to build a stronger box that won't vibrate as all and mount them to it. What do u brace ur box with?
  8. My bad I missed those. So subs are 3 10inch soundcube hdc3. 1200watts rms. Amps is wolfram 3000.1 at .67 ohms and the wolfram 125.4 together amps gotta be almost 50lbs in weight. Big mofos. Power is 2/0 awg ofc gp cable, xs power d3400 under hood, big 3, stock alt. So maybe 1500watts rms system. Box is 1.4 cubes per sub internal volume after port and all displacements.
  9. Thank u all for ur help and nice builds. This box build is definitely just weighing in on my mind and google and forums haven't given me any sufficient answers yet.
  10. It is in place from moving. Ugh. My question more or less is for me to be able to put my forehead to the box and not feel a thing while it is playing. Cost for build 100$. Should I build it 1.5 inches thick and resin and glassmat it. Also is a port for 4.5 cubes. I know port area should be around 12-16inches per cube. Would it make a difference if it was 2x33 inches or 6x11 inches. Both is 66square inches. But does the ratio really matter? Would there be an audible difference. I wanna get this nxt box right.
  11. Thank u for the help so far everyone. So the last box. I do like it but I'm thinking the vibration is to much. Bass hits and box moves around the trunk. I mean it can hardly move. I put my phone on box and if vibrates the phone around. It won't bounce of coins or anything but the box is still only getting about maybe 1.5krms maybe. (Not enough power to sustain 3600krms yet, hopefully after tax time can get those lto cells) it transfers to much vibration to amps that aren't mounted on the box. Maybe it should be sturdier? The box isn't bad for my 5th box ever built. I just want it strong af without any vibration. Weight is also an issue why I want to steer away from mdf if I go with 1.5inches thick.
  12. So I have built a few boxes now. All out of mdf. Used paint and rhino lining. They have all been built out or 5/8 mdf. I'm tired of the dust and just overall weakness of mdf even with proper bracing. My next build I'm thinking baltic birch, maple, red oak, all the same stuff and same price just different finish when stained. 54$ for 4x8 and 3/4 inch thick. I plan on resining the inside. My last cost effective is the sanded plywood and 34$ a sheet of 4x8 for 3/4 inch and ofcourse it'll have voids but still look nice when stained and can double the panels to 1.5inches thick, resin inside of box. And it should be solid as a rock for 3 10inch subs on 3600watts rms and braced with a couple 2x4s. Question, which route would be the cheapest or even which route should I go for the most solid box. Without killing the bank. Should I glass matt the inside of box as well? Would the sanded plywood work for 0 vibrations done 1.5inches thick and resin? What would u do with a 100$ budget for this box? All prices are local homedepot. Please help. Here are some of the builds that I have done and already probly seen on here.
  13. So another question, new box is going to be 16H x 36W x 25D. It is going to be 1.5" thick. Bracing and subwoofer displacement is .32ft3. So after all that I get 5.2ft3 and need a port area of 83"sq. So I was thinking of 2.5H x 33W x 15.26L which will be tuned to 33hertz. Question is. All the software advises against such a small port as it's not gonna be that wide. Will that effect sound quality? Also the 33hertz and those deminsions is correct? I'm using ct sounds box maker and it says that those port deminsions will be 49hertz. Way to high. But I've done two different pirt deminsions on google and they both say the 15.26 is 33hertz. I think ct sounds software is incorrect? Any help would be great.
  14. I have been thinking about different port options and shapes. Due to my space restrictions I was thinking of putting 4 triangle ports in each corner of box to save space and mount subs in preferred way. My question. Say I put in all the specs into calculator to get length of a square port I can simply divide length by 4 and then ofcourse 2 triangles will equal square and that would be correct? Same type math if I found the length of a slot ported slot and wanted two slot ports, I'd cute width in half and then length divided by two? I'm wondering if my math is right on this and would this work. A single port better than multiple ports? Is there any other variables to add to the equations of port? I already know the 12-16inches squared per cubic foot. Just anything else to be aware of as to why this wouldn't work or be best option.
  15. L1ttlet

    New build and minor box build help

    So with birch I should do two layers and then there willbe absolutely zero vibration? Gonna resin the inside as well. That'll be for my nxt car and box. For now I still have vibration on amps and rack. Gonna try a piece of rubber between L-brackets and frame. The vibration is almost gone but not quite.
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