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About Bangler

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  • Birthday 01/11/1942


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  1. That's great but there is no supporting evidence that the DB series of Rockville amps are prone to burn. This site seems to hate anything that affordable which is understandable. No one wants to recommend something that, perhaps, may have a risk. I understand the risks, so don't worry about it. ;p You willing to help design a box?
  2. Cheap is good in this case cause the vehicle lacks security. There are no doors, no locks, nothing to stop a thief from jacking the equipment. Perhaps I've provided to much information. I'm looking for a box design to meet three 12's in a maximum space of 42" Length x 36" width x 18" height. I will pay for a box design that meets my simple requirements; I'm flexible (provided a reasonable argument) to meet my goal of a top firing box with options of two 15's - or one 18 to any one that wants to design it. I found of video of the DB16 on a dyno, its not that bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVlbCm034F0 Please don't get bogged down on my personal risks here. I just want help with the box design please. Paid. Of course.
  3. Total overall length in the rear is 42" x 36" width x 18" height. My thoughts were to leave enough length for a battery box to the front. If the extra space is needed for the box, the batteries will go else where The amp is rated @ 4000wrms @ 2ohm but I assume a <20% loss netting me closer to 3200wrms. After deliberating with a friend and a few beers. We figured we could run 3 @ 1.33 ohms with this amp for short excursions. Running below 2 ohms should net me some extra power... right? That's what we figured anyways. If the amp melts I'll upgrade to something different. If it pops the subs, I'm only out $300. Then I'll have an excuse to upgrade.
  4. Yes. 3-4" inches rearward to the gate with 12" available front. Spitballing could be the word; I'd prefer flexibility. Original goal stands but I have limited experience here. I could throw something together solo but I'd prefer to maximize the available space. I have plenty of money so I could buy different subs, provided there is a reasonable argument but I'd prefer to use 3 of the V122 CW 12" subs that I started with. Amp is easily upgradable, lets not get bogged down on it :p
  5. Cold Air intakes have been well proven to do nearly nothing. Claims that they increase HP, MPG, reduce wear, and lower engine temps, are all false. The only thing they do is make a nice "whoosh" noise when getting on it. You can find YouTube videos where they do back to back dyno runs. If you just want it. Make it from PVC pipe and buy a cone filter.
  6. Top firing with 1 or more ports facing the front or rear of the vehicle. I just want the most subwoofer I can get in a enclosure of that size. I'd prefer 3 12's but if that doesn't work. I could do two 15's or one 18.
  7. So no chance of having a top firing sub with the amount of space I have? Lets for a second say I'm dead set on having a top firing enclosure. What Equipment would be recommended to accomplish that? Would a single 15' or single 18' be better? I don't have a budget. I can spend as much or as little as I want. I just don't want to change amps. No risk, no reward.
  8. That looks simple enough. Yes the whole setup is low buck mainstream garbage. The next build will be with quality equipment. I want to get my feet wet with this build as I get more comfortable with car audio. Sure I could buy a high quality Cerwin Vega - Stroker Pro with a Crescendo amp but I'm trying to do something a little different here. Its hard for me. lol I agree with ya but lets not over exaggerate. This build isn't entering any competitions, demos, or will ever see more then 30 minutes of use at a time. Variables dictate what one can get away with, "pay now or pay later" isn't always the end all be all.
  9. I like to live dangerously. Just messing. Shouldn't be a worry with this setup cause it isn't getting demo'd, I'm not competing, and I only ever drive 10-15 minutes at a time. Well... That's good to know! After a 30 minute jam session, the DB14 unit was barely warm to the touch.. Haven't used a IR temp gun on it yet though so that's subjective. I have no loyalties to Rockville. I saw these on amazon for cheap and decided I wanted to try something new. My personality leads me to over do everything, it was INCREDIBLY hard for me to buy these cheap POS. That's why I don't want to get rid of them. I'm going against everything I do in RL by using these amps. This is good for me.
  10. Apologies it has taken me so long to reply! Thanks to everyone for taking time to help. The manual does say 1.25cubes as a minimum so I bought a box about that size and it sounds terrible. It lacks punch. Up to 50% power isn't bad but after that, it becomes incredible "boomey" - If that's a good word for it. I'm a noob, don't know terms yet. lol. Right now I'm powering a single V122 12" 2ohm sub with a Rockville DB14 2000watt RMS amp in a 1.25cube box. My math works my current box out closer to 1.1cubes though. Its bad. LMAO. If it burns well I'll pull the plates and leave it there... Shit, nah I actually like this jeep Perhaps a little more back round might help. Its a hard top that I run without doors so its not a sealed unit. Its a summer ride that I like to cruise in. I thought about a generic box and have looked at a few but I really want to go with a custom box. I've rebuilt this Jeep from the ground up with roughly 200hrs of labor and $8000 in parts alone. She looks rough, but its an incredibly well built Jeep that looks bone stock. Everything is brand new. I'm going for a certain look with this jeep, part of the reason I wanted top firing subs. If there are more reasons to not go this route, then there are for it; Ill have to move this "softcore" build over to my 98 Cherokee that I'm currently building.
  11. Hello everyone! First time poster but I've been a lurker long enough. I'm looking for help with designing a box that'll work in the back of a 92 jeep wrangler. I listen mostly to metal but also rock and occasionally some techno or dubstep; whatever people call it now. I want the box to be 28"Lx36"Wx18"H. I'd like the subs to face up. With Ports heading to the front or rear. Products: -Pioneer DEH-6000? Head Unit - I'll replace it at some point -Rockville db16 4000w RMS Mono Amp - Not replacing I like this cheap POS x2-Cerwin Vega 12" V122 dual voice coil 2ohm Subwoofers - rated @ 450rms -3 1000 amp lead acid batteries -New 90amp Alt. (upgrade later to 200amp) I want atleast two 12" subs but If I have enough space I'd prefer 3 subs. I want a one off box. Something new. Something a little different. I'll pay for good schematics. I have the tools, space, money, and time to build it myself. I just need good measurements to go by. Thank you very much to anyone that's willing to help.