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Mitchc1113

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About Mitchc1113

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/19/1985

MORE INFO

  • Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
  • Audio System Setup
    Sundown SD3 12"/ JBL GTR-1001 6.5 CDT Classics Components/ Hifonics Warrior Hawk
  1. Mitchc1113

    Which Subwoofer

    I for whatever reason didnt notice the power your working with and the box size. Sorry.. Your kind of limited with the power you have however, some of the subs I listed need more power than 1200 watts. You maybe better off going with a single 12" if you're working with 1200 watts and 2.5 cu/ft. Would ultimately be cheaper & in many instances be louder than 2 10s sharing 1200 watts and with the box size you want to build.
  2. Mitchc1113

    Which Subwoofer

    What are you looking for out of your sub? Do you just want it to get as loud as possible, or are you looking more towards blending with the rest of your setup geared more towards SQ? Something in middle? If your looking for an all around great driver I'd 2nd the Audiofrog GS10. Around the same price as the W6 but IMHO a much better subwoofer, the W6 is a very good sub, but your paying for the name, you can get better for less and way better for the same price. I'd also look at the Dayton Reference HO- cant get much better for the price https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463 Also highly recommend an Image Dynamics Max 10". Another excellent sub, amazing SQ and will get loud. I had 2 of them in a small sealed box in the trunk of a Lexus IS300 & they sounded amazing. If you want something that will be really loud but still sound good I'd look at a Sundown SA, FI SSD or Q, Crescendo Contralto. Theres a lot of subs in the price range your looking at, but theres plenty of guys on here that know their stuff, so I'm sure the advice ull get will more than suffice.
  3. JL- Everyone that had JL subs in my area when I was in high school 2001-2004 were just always so cocky. They'd have their 3 10s or 2 12s W0s or W3s crammed in a sealed box thinking they were the shit n would talk all kinds of shit on my setup, had 2 12" L7s and would really let me have it when I had the RE SX 15" cuz theyd never heard of RE so theyd just yap yap n I'd let them and funny enough they always lost their voices after I'd play my setup. Never liked RF or MTX for the same reason. And I absolutely HATED Audiobahn n their chrome shit, although I refuse to recognize them as a good brand...
  4. Mitchc1113

    Has anyone bought B Stock from Cab?

    I bought a B Stock Sundown SD3 12" from them 2 months ago. Was nervous at 1st but was such a good deal that I said screw it, very glad I did. I still cant find anything wrong with it. Cosmetically it was perfect, there were like 1-2 extremely small scratches on the motor, but I'm talking tiny, like the only reason I noticed them was because I was looking so hard to find anything wrong. Got me a bit nervous cuz then I thought something might be wrong mechanically, maybe a coil tick or something, but its performed perfectly too. So they must have crazy strict QC guidelines. I think anyone who would have paid full price for my sub wouldn't have had any complaints. In other words dont be worried about buying b stock from them, you wont be disappointed!
  5. Ok guys I'm currently running a Sundown SD3 12" in a 1.25cu/ft ported box tuned to 32-33hz. It's a prefab Audio Enhancers box, powered by a JBL GTR1001 @4ohms4ohms, so it's seeing somewhere between 700-800 watts. Sub sounds good, pretty clean, but doesn't really dig the lows and just isnt loud enough for me. I was absent from audio from about 2008 till last November when I found my old school 15L7 in my moms garage and decided to throw it in my Escalade. Then went with the SD3 when I got my Silverado. Anyway I just got my fiance an 18' GMC Terrain Denali & she wants a sub . She likes the way the SD3 sounds so decided I could give it to her w/ the JBL GTR1001, put it in a different box & she's good to go. So that leaves me with picking out a new setup. Right now I'm thinking about going with (2) 10s. If I raise my seats I know I can get 2.0+ cubes for a ported box. My current list is: - Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection - Fi SSD - Dayton HO or Ultimax - NVX VCW - Ampere Audio 2.5 RVE - Soundqubed HDC3.1 or HDS3.1 - DC M2 Level 3 - Crescendo Forte - Sundown SA That's my list right now. I know it's a wide range. I want something that will get loud and go low (I know they're 10s) not planning on competing with this setup so I dont need dbdrag loud, but I'd like to have something that when I really want to crank it its gonna make u cover ur ears. I used to have a 04' RE SX 15" that would do mid 140s on the TL, just to give you guys an idea of what my ears consider loud. Again dont need it to be that loud as its gonna be a daily driver so I want something loud that still sounds very good, musically accurate, but if I can get the best of both worlds... Last & just as important is there anyone who could design me a box? I'm willing to pay if necessary. Again it's a 2018 Chevy Silverado Double Cab, want it ported, fit under the seats and if possible front firing (seems like front fire yields best results in trucks from what I've read) Here's some pics of the kind of box I'm looking for, for 2 10s obviously. Thanks guys, I appreciate it!
  6. Mitchc1113

    18' Silverado build 2.0

    Been raining all day and its unbearably humid outside, I did however start planning the amp rack layout... Unfortunately me being me, something that shouldn't be too difficult turns into a huge project. So I took some pictures (ok well a lot of pictures but I'll try to narrow them down) and I need some help picking how I should lay everything out. I'm thinking about function (easiest way to adjust amp settings, where wire will have to travel, etc) weight distribution (want board to be stable, dont want to worry about it not holding) and of course looks! BTW- in a few of the pics theres some obvious empty spots & that's because I haven't yet decided whether I'm going to still use my Audio Control LC2i so I left a spot for it in some setups. Thanks guys.
  7. So after a 10 year absence I got a new 2018 Silverado in May and proceeded to add a Sub, well then I wanted speakers. Then I decided I wanted more & realized I was bit by the bug again. Current Build - Audio Control LC2I - Memphis 15-PRX275s Midrange - NVX NSP65 - Memphis SRX2.150 - Sundown SD3 12" 1.25 cu/ft ported 32hz - JBL GTR1001 NEW SETUP - Memphis 15-PRX275s - Tang Band 25-2176 - SB Acoustics SB- 17NRX35 - NVX NSP65 (rears) - Dayton Auduo DSP-408 - Memphis SRX2.150 - Skar LP-80.4ABV2 - Sundown Sd3 12" - JBL GTR1001 So yesterday I got started on the uninstalling of amps and wires, some sound dampening and a cutout of the amp rack.
  8. Ok so I have my amps getting their signals from my LC2i. My highs amp hooked up to the Main and my sub amp to the sub output on the LC2i. I have a Massive Audio EQ7X that I want to install. My question is is there anyway I can use both units together for both amps? The only inputs on the EQ are a main and then an aux. So I'm wondering how I can get both sets of RCAs from LC2i to EQ? From the EQ theres plenty of outputs to go to the amps, but the inputs being the problem. I'm assuming the aux input works differently than the Main input, so I couldnt just use the aux as a 2nd input for 1 of the amps RCAs? The options I'm seeing are #1 still use both outputs on the lc2i, sending either the main or sub output to the EQ, then from the EQ to whichever amp. Then the other RCAs from the lc2i directly to whichever amp. Option #2 . Only using 1 output on the LC2i (Main or sub) and sending those RCAs to the main input on the EQ. Then from the EQ using its multiple outlets to send signals to each amp. Seems like I have to choose between the EQ & LC2i, which 1 will have control over both amps and the other only controlling 1. Cannot seem to think of a way to get both units control over both amps. Finally if that is the case than what would you guys recommend? Having the LC2i send both amps their signal therefore not losing any of its controls. Or should I just use 1 output on the LC2i to the EQ and have the EQ send both amps their signals? And if this option which output on the LC2i should I use? Sub or Main? Myself I feel as though Option #2 may work best, using 1 output on the LC2i, sending that to EQ Main input, then sending the amps their signals from the EQ. Feel like the EQ will give me more control if hooked up to both amps vs the LC2i being the 1 feeding both amps their signals. Any and all opinions welcome...
  9. Was looking thru my gallery and found this old pic from 2004. It's an RE SX 15", ported tuned to 33hz w/ a slot port I could put it to change the tuning to 43hz for dBdrag. Was running of a Lanzar D3000m. Awesome budget amplifier back in the day.
  10. Ok so I'm at the point now where I have the sub and 6.5s installed along with their amps. Sundown Sd3 12" ported tuned to 32hz running off a JBL GTR1001 @ 4ohms, so its seeing around 700 watts. My 6.5s are NVX SP coaxials running off a Memphis SRX2.150 @4 ohms, amp is rated 50 watts rms x 2 @ 4ohms. Both the amps are getting their signal from my Audio Control LC2i. I have a stock HU, 2018 Chevy Silverado 8" Mylink Non Bose system. So to start, on the HU I have my EQ set in the negative for bass, prob about +4 for mids & +3 for treble. The LC2i is tapped into my front L & R speakers behind HU for signal (Stock speakers no longer installed, just unhooked them & bypassed factory wires) I read that the front speakers are better to tap in the Silverado b/c they recieve a full range signal. The LC2i is setup as follows, Accubass threshold is set all the way to the right bc when I did the test for bass roloff I didnt notice the bass going out or lower @ any point, I really listened & tested quite a few times but never noticed anything. Then the Accubass knob is @ 12 o'clock, Main (speaker amp, Memphis) @ 12 o'clock & Bass (JBL amp) about 2 oclock. The JBL GTR1001 is set almost all the way down, bass boost almost all the way down, 0 degrees phase setting, My LPF @ about 80hz. Finally, Memphis SRX2.150, gain is all the way down, have it set on the High Pass Filter, which is set quite high, if I set it under the halfway point (Only indicators I have are all the way left is down to about 30hz and all the way right is above 1khz, so I feel like halfway would be pretty high where I shouldnt have any bass coming out of them, but if I set it any lower and turn the volume up about halfway I hear a decent amount of distorted bass trying to come thru the speakers. Now I maybe wrong but I feel like I should be able to set the HPF @ like 150hz and not have a problem with too much bass trying to be played thru them?? I then have the boost set @ 0. I feel like I can tune this better, they sound really good, but I feel like they could be better. I also noticed when I attempt to turn the gain on the amp up over like 1/4 it almost acts like a fader, the sound from the speaker goes to the passenger side and goes silent (or very quiet) on the driver side. Don't know why itd do that. Any tips? Ideas? I have a multimeter that I can use, I actually tried to use it to set the LC2i, but when I did that I got my voltage output I needed was like 42 volts I believe and when I put the meter on the speaker outputs of amp with the lc2i bass knob all the way down I was at that 40 volts already and the more I'd turn the knob up, the voltage # would actually drop. I followed the instructions, had the 50hz test tone playing, sub was unhooked, just didnt seem to work. So any pointers would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  11. Well it's all finally starting to come together. Last weekend I had the CDT CL6 components with my Hifonics Warrior Hawk amp to power them & something was wrong, my LC2i began to smoke & the components cut out, but my amp never went into protection. So I decided to get a new amp, Memphis srx2.150 and I also got a pair of NVX 6.5 coaxials for the help of it b/c they were so cheap & because of not wanting to have to cut into anything since it's a lease I decided to give them a try. Anywho, hooked up the Memphis amp with the NVXs and everything works fine, LC2i is running fine. Only things I changed were the amp & instead of having 2 remote wires coming out of the LC2i remote out I just used 1 and jumped the Memphis remote turn on from my JBL GTR1001, so it had to be 1 of those 2 factors. The NVXs sound better than I would have ever imagined. Amazing set of speakers for that price, in fact not even taking the price into consideration they're just great sounding highs. Now I feel like the highs can more than hold their weight w/ the bass my Sundown SD3 12" is producing! The last thing I need to do is install the 2.75" dash speakers. The stock speakers are still in their now, but I'm going to replace them w/ a set of Memphis 2.75s that I'll just run off the HU. They should be in tonight so maybe I'll get them in tomorrow. Don't want the stock 1s running for too long since they're 2 ohms, they normally tie in with the door speakers to create a 4ohm load for the HU, but since I unhooked those & am running the NVXs off an amp the dash speakers are running by themselves, so I'm afraid to give the HU a 2ohm load for more than a few days, just to be safe. Here's some pics of the install to date. The 1 of the 16awg wires is for the LC2i, Instead of just bare wire into the terminal I got some wire ferrules, very easy to use/crimp, add some heat shrink and your good to go! Seems like a more solid connection. I also used them for my 8 awg ground and my remote in to the JBL GTR1001. Tried to use them on my subwoofer speaker wire for input into the amp and into the banana clips on the sub box, for whatever reason it did not work, sub wouldn't play, took the wire ferrules off and it was fine... so I'm not sure what the deal was with that? But for everything else they worked great!
  12. Mitchc1113

    Audio Control LC2i problems, burning up?

    Yea my settings/wiring are all good, double/triple checked, then checked again, just doesn't make any sense bc it's now been 5 days since it happened & I've been just using it to run the sub amp and it's fine, no issues what so ever. Makes me think there's something wrong w/ the amp or something, but it didnt go into protection at all so I'm just stumped. I'll be able to work on it again Sat, so hopefully I can get some answers or at least rule some things out... I have a new set of speakers and a new amp that should be delivered tomorrow too so I can also swap out the amps n see if it's an amp issue... so hopefully by Sat night I have an answer n I hope that answer isn't a bad LC2i or a bad amp...
  13. Under normal circumstances this would be a no brainer as components are always my go to choice, but there's more to this. Like it states in the title. I have a brand new set of NVX NSP65 Coaxials and the CDT CL6 Classics are from 2004, but remained unopened until a few weeks ago. So they're both essentially brand new. The CDTs were I want to say like $300+ back then, however I got them for a steal as they were considered "Factory Rejects" bc the cone was a maroon color instead of red. So they're both new speakers but the CDTs are 14 yrs old, so a 14 year old comp set vs a new coaxial? Just wondering if speakers have changed that much over the years that the coaxials may be better. Also bc I have a lease vehicle I don't want to have to cut or drill into any panels, I'll be mounting the tweeters right above the mid driver with the CDTs, I have a Silverado (2018 non bose) and I will be keeping the dash speakers, have a set of Memphis 2.75s on the way to replace the stock 1s. Both sets of speakers will be running off a Memphis SRX 150.2, so both would be seeing about 60 watts per speaker. So under those circumstances which would you guys recommend? What ever 1s I don't use will go into my girls vehicle so they will go to good use either way...
  14. Ok so I'm running an Lc2i, had it running my sub amp for about 3 weeks now no problems at all. So today I finished putting my components in, turned radio on & everything was fine, sounded good, about 3 mins later my components cut out so I went to check amp, still powered on, but I can smell that burning smell that after 17 yrs in car audio u have a nose for. After few secs realize it's my lc2i. Put stock speakers back in, let it rip for a few mins, no problems, no more burning smell. So obviously problem is with the new setup. But what could it be? The list of ideas I have on no particular order are #1 I have 2 remote wires coming out of the lc2i going to both the amps, is that not how I should have them setup? #2 I have the lc2i tapped into the front speakers right behind the HU, with the comps in I ran new wire, bypassed stock wire, just have stock front speakers unhooked. I thought that wouldn't matter since it's getting signal from HU before the speakers, but maybe I'm wrong? #3 My non Bose Silverado has 3" dash speakers which tie into door speakers @ kick panel and go to HU as 1 set of speaker inputs. I've heard that if you unhook door speakers you need to unhook dash speakers b/c by themselves the dash speakers send the HU an ohm load it supposedly doesn't like. I'm not sure how true this is, but any case, I did not have the dash speakers unhooked, they were playing with no problem, but if true could that have caused my issue? I wont have time again till next week to have another go at things, but I don't really want to run the risk of blowing my lc2i and losing my sub output for the time being, so I'd like to have some what an idea of the possible problem. Thanks a lot. BTW components are CDT 6.5 Classics (2004 version, brand new, been in my closet for past 14 yrs in box) & comp amp is a hifonics warrior hawk 2 channel, bought in 04 too and never hooked up.
  15. Hi guys, new to the forum, been out the audio/ dB Drag game for about 10 yrs now. Just got a new 2018 Silverado LT Z71 Redline double cab and just had to upgrade the stock stereo. Anyway I was originally planning on just doin a sub upgrade, but when I was @ my mom's house goin through my old audio stuff I found a set of 6.5 CDT Classics from like 04' that I never even unboxed and I also had a Hifonics Warrior Hawk laying around too, so I decided to upgrade my front stage as well. Anyways I'm trying to get an idea of the cleanest/easiest way to wire them up. My truck is a lease so less cutting/splicing the better. I have the speaker adapters but do I even need them? Like I said been out the game a while so im a bit rusty, want to see if the options in my head are correct. Option #1 . I just remove stock speakers, leave the harness alone, run new wire from amp to x-overs then x-overs to speakers in effect bypassing the factory speaker wiring therefor being able to leave it intact? Option #2 . Not as clear, I have 9 wire, couldn't I tap into factory wiring harness behind HU w/ 9 wire (redirecting speaker wire from ever going to the HU) Where I'm confused with this option is where do I run 9 wire to? Amp? X-overs? And can I use the speaker adapters with this option. Are there any other options I'm missing here? Like I said looking for the easiest/cleanest route with the knowledge that easiest/cleanest may not go hand in hand. The thought of having to run new wire thru door grommet is not something I look forward to doing, but neither is cutting my speaker adapters... The last part of this equation which again I'm not sure how much of an effect it will have on wiring the new speakers is like I said earlier my Audio Control LC2i is hooked up behind my HU getting it's signal from my front stage, will installing the new components have an effect on the LC2i doing it's job giving signal to my amps? Thanks in advance guys, hopefully I provided enough info and it's not too confusing. I got a lot coming back to me but some things, like this I'm just havin a mental block and I don't want to start doing anything before I'm 100% on how and what I'm doing with these components.
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