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nate0

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nate0 last won the day on April 5

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About nate0

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  • Name
    Nate
  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ
  • Interests
    Customize mobile phones, write shell scripts, tinker with my car stereo, and play softball.

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  1. Ok. 1 additional spider more? How many was it before 2? Do you think the stiffness or suspension limited a bit will keep your clamped power about the same for that box or just adding some additional assurance for the current setup? Just curious.
  2. @shredder2 are you just changing the coil is all? Any other soft part changes along with the recone ordered?
  3. Where's the fun in that?!
  4. It is only a matter of time and how until that 150 shows up. I agree with the said above, there is more potential in that setup, just a matter of getting it there.
  5. It depends on the car a bit too. In-line 4cyl cars will notice this more than even a bigger 4cyl car or V6. I have a 2.4L 4cyl Sonata, and can't tell much now but before when I had 3-4 AGMs a 70lb box and two 45lb subs coupled with a large amp I noticed. Deadner etc adds up too. If you do not see the suspension sag at all or even a little though you are probably fine. But just depends on the car itself too. With everything in it now it still outperforms my Montero though.
  6. Well, as I typed that I was afraid I was speaking too soon, and then realized this more about sound quality. So ya, you could run that sub but two of them in 1.4cft ported enclosure in a trunk may be a hit or miss. That sucker has a huge motor though, if you buy two of them I would re-think the enclosure design altogether.
  7. That is a home theater sub. Designed specifically for that application. You can still buy one and try your luck but I doubt you will get anything out of it in 2cft of space.
  8. That is a whole other topic. That is not terribly abnormal, but maybe you have slight ground issue. When I say issue I mean it is not a good ground or maybe not enough. If you never see your voltage at 14v or higher when at idle and no music playing then start there first. You should see the same voltage reading at the amp as you do on the battery when the car is turned on and no music playing. If not the ground is most likely the reason. Take a volt meter and check the battery terminals when the car is on. If it is 14.xx v then check the amp inputs and see. Music is dynamic so blasting the woofer will make the voltage go where ever the amp needs to take the woofer.
  9. Not likely on a volt meter unless you leave it running for a week.
  10. I have two vm. An SMD analog and SQ digital. Both have a remote turn on. I was considering getting meters with only a two wire setup and then set up a rocker switch for them, but these meters turned out to be the ones I wanted. Probably should look up how +5v turn on circuits are setup/isolated to clearly see what is going on.
  11. That should be an SNL skit. Geesh. What a waste of time.
  12. Not that this is entirely the factor but you can tell when class AB amps from the early 2000s had S/N of the upper 70s and today have around 100, when the Class D full range meet that 100 or greater in S/N, it shows.
  13. Ya, that is why recently bought a wt2. Am still trying to completely understand it though.
  14. I would think a mid bass would be a perfect example. This I can see feasible, as some build door pods and even put 12in woofers in them...
  15. It kinda bugs me when vendors post specs of the D2 or D4 sub only. They list both version but the rest of the TS parameters are for only one of the models. Not a huge deal really I guess, but I like seeing as much as I can while looking at stuff.
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